Possible Heavy 10 Purchase Feedback

I asked the guy for the video he mentions. I don't really think I would use the attached mill, but who knows. I had planned to get a separate mill. I guess the fact that it appears to be a metric machine isn't the end of the world considering I will probably get a dro anyway.

I will still go look at the south bend. No need to be in a hurry. If it is meant to be, it will be.
 
That lathe looks like it has seen some action but its hard to tell from pics. The thing that give me pause at the moment is that it is a metric machine, not Imperial. That means you have to work in the metric system; not a big deal, as most of our brothers across the pond do this all the time. I would personally not prefer to do this, though.

Just so you know, the S11 has induction hardened ways and tends to wear slower as a result. The lathe is assembled like a Swiss watch - everything goes together without slop and it is as simplified and logical as it can get. Minor touches, like a hardened button on the saddle where it contacts the carriage stop or the ability to adjust the crossfeed and compound leadscrew nuts to eliminate backlash are things you don't notice but make a difference. It was assembled to a "toolroom" quality standard, which means there is a DIN spec they followed.

You should know that Emco no longer supports this lathe so parts will have to be purchased either used or new old stock. Parts for this lathe are hard to come by because they just don't break very often. Accordingly, parts will cost you if you find them.

I have no regrets. My spindle has zero runout, is quiet and very accurate. No backlash on the cross feed or compound, which is really nice. My lathe has a 115V, 2 HP motor and is an Imperial model. It will take a 0.20" cut in steel without even slowing down; I have to slow it down a notch to go deeper. It will get up to 2500 rpm or so and that is fast enough for HSS, not for carbide tooling.

By the way, that milling attachment is highly regarded. With a full, independent base it will go for over 3K all by itself. I never liked the idea of having a heavy milling attachment hanging off the side of my lathe bed and if this were mine, I would remove it and find a base for it or sell it.

3K for this machine, if you don't mind working in metric, is a steal. That is, if the machine is in good shape. It will clean up fine but you need to look at the ways and gears. The headstock gears run in an oil bath; you can see them by removing the four screws on top of the headstock. Check to be sure there are no missing teeth. If he has a change gear set, grab it - they are hardened and ground and are worth over $250.00 by themselves and came with a carrier spud in the set; make sure its all there. The change gears should also be inspected - three screws in back of the headstock removes the cover so you can see them.

Again, this is a metric lathe. If you want an Imperial then let it go and consider that SB or a PM. If you do buy it, I would sell the milling attachment on ebay and recover most of the cost of the lathe and buy a separate milling machine later. Good luck with this.
 
I asked the guy for the video he mentions. I don't really think I would use the attached mill, but who knows. I had planned to get a separate mill. I guess the fact that it appears to be a metric machine isn't the end of the world considering I will probably get a dro anyway.

I will still go look at the south bend. No need to be in a hurry. If it is meant to be, it will be.

You're right - a DRO will negate the everyday use hassles of a metric lathe BUT remember that you will have to cut threads, too, and that is what would give me pause.

I would go for a nice new Imperial PM before I would buy a metric lathe ... but that's just me.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I tend to agree with you. It may be a good deal, but if it does nothing but frustrate me, it probably isn't worth it.
 
Obviously someone liked the Emco as its listing has already been deleted.

Did you end up with that one, hozzie?
 
I bought the South Bend. It ran good and all gears worked well and didn't have any weird noises. I don't know enough to know if the ways were good, bad, or other, but it moved smoothly and had a little more tightness near the end of the bed which I think is mostly expected.

I paid $1700 and probably another $400-$500 shipping so I don't think I overpaid.
 
Hope it turns out to be as good as it looks, Hozzie. You got it for a good price, I think. I've seen Heavy 10's go for a lot more that were in worse condition. If the ways are good, it will serve you well. One gross and quick way to tell is to bring the saddle near the chuck, in the area that most work is done on a lathe, and tighten the saddle locking screw just enough to provide a touch of friction as you move the saddle hand wheel a bit. Then run the saddle down towards the tailstock. If you make it all the way down without too much trouble then the ways are probably okay. If it binds half way down the bed then the wear in the ways may be a bit much.
 
Hozzie,

Your new Heavy Ten looks quite nice. It has the 70-speed gearbox and the slap-lever clutch, so it appears to be an early-1960s or later. The slap-lever clutch is supposed to be a big improvement over the older star-wheel. Your lathe appears to be in overall really nice condition.

I picked up a very similar one in early December. Mine is a Catalog# CL199A, Serial# 11957 RKR13. My serial number, as best as I can tell from
the wswells list, puts it around a 1960. Yours has a different cabinet, so think yours is a few years later (younger) than mine.

There's a gazillion of these lathes around, but very few original catalog-like documents. Here's the best I can tell about mine...

The Catalog # CL 199 A - CL
CL = thread nose spindle.
199 is the catalog model number, which changed every few years, pedestal or cabinet, etc.
A=4' bed (Y=3 ? , Z=3-1/2 ?)

The Serial # 11957 RKR 13
11957 = serial number (re-started from zero in 1948 ??)
R = 10"
K = Quick change gearbox
R = Regular spindle hole (L=large)
13 - model number (kinda internal factory version number)

Yours, probably being a few years later than mine, might be a 10-L which can take 1-1/16 collets (meaning a 1-1/16 piece of round bar can fit through it) instead of 1", and the Catalog model# might be 187, and the serial number might have RKL in it.

Let us know about your Catalog and Serial#'s - maybe we can plug some of the gaps in the knowledge of these great lathes that built America.

Dave
 
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