Along those lines, where do you get your metal "blanks" and do you have any recommendations for basic stock? Most used materials and sizes for those little parts projects that always arise?
www.OnlineMetals.com They have aluminum, steel, and brass 'starter packs' that I bought just to have various pieces of small stock on-hand for those little projects that come up. Then I buy other size material as the job requires. I also get some stock (search "steel or aluminum stock") on Ebay, and from Speedy Metals. These are all great ways for hobbyists like us to get small quantities of material.
In researching, I came across the G0704 website and watched the video on the 3 bolt mod... seemed pretty straightforward and simple, and I think you said you'd done it. Worth it? Did you make the tramming aids described?
I have that site bookmarked! Yes, I did the three-bolt mod and it made a significant difference just in tramming the head. WAY less flex detected by my DTI when the head is pushed up or down by hand after the mod. Can't wait to see how it cuts. I didn't bother to make a template like Hoss describes. Because these are not real critical measurements, I simply measured from the center of the center bolt to the center of the pivot bolt. Located a punch mark 120 degrees from the lower pivot bolt on either side of it at the required radius, and drilled.
To get the head off, I pivoted the top of the head to the left and lowered it so that the switch box was touching the table (I had a small piece of plywood on the table to protect both). Undid the center and pivot bolts and used the Y-axis crank to move the head away from it's mount. No lifting required (I would guess the head weighs about 40-50 lbs). so after drilling the head and installing the extra screws in the head mount (used Hoss' coat hanger idea on that one), I simply reversed the process to reinstall the head onto it's mount. There's plenty of room to get the bolts started into the head with your fingers. Finish by continue to crank on the Y-axis until the head is on. Piece of cake. Oh, and don't forget the little allen head setscrew in the right side of the head that helps hold the head on. Spent about 2 min. looking for why the blinkin head wasn't coming off... :LOL:
And I also made the tramming aids. Again, didn't use his prints as these are really easy to just make on the fly (which is how I do most things).
These really help when dialing in that last little bit while tramming. Last time I trammed the head after installing them I was able to get < .001 across 14" in X in a matter of minutes. First time I tried tramming the head (without the mod) it took me 20-30 min to get twice the error.
I've also ordered the two 36t stainless spur gears Hoss spoke of in one of his first mods. Haven't received them yet, but putting these in will eliminate the plastic intermediate gear that people seem to break. Although Matt says he's never broken one, I'm just erring on the side of caution. That and it gives me >4k spindle RPM for my smaller end mills.
I'll test this mod out, and if after awhile you decide you want to do this mod, I'll modify the gears for you as you don't yet have a metal lathe right?
Thanks again for sharing your insights and experiences... you helped me a lot.
Henry