PM Research #7 It Begins

This is why it amazes me that people use the lathe for the bore on these engines instead of the mill. I found it SO much easier to do a facing op on the mill, then boring head for the bore, drill/ream the valve, use the DRO for the bolt circle.

Then flipped it over, indicated on the bore, then faced and DRO'ed the other bolt circle.

I didn't need to use transfer punches or transfer screws at all.
Erich, I agree with you. In my case, I have not been successful boring with my mill.
I have a 2" Shars boring head. I have tried every type of cutting edge I can think of. I always end up with chatter.
It's to the point where I thought it was the bearings in my mill.
I have checked the spindle for runout, looseness, end play etc. The mill runs flawlwss for every function.
It has to be the boring head or the cutters/my grinding or a combination of the two.
I even have stout Criterion tool bits.
 
Something else I recently learned, I have a good quality DRO Pros DRO on my mill. I'm not real confident punching in/programming patterns - bolt circles.
I have found Little machine Shops calculator is quick and easy. It helps keep me from making a mistake using the DRO on my mill.
Yes, I know, I need to learn how to use it. The instructions to me are difficult.


And..>>>>>>
 
Something else I recently learned, I have a good quality DRO Pros DRO on my mill. I'm not real confident punching in/programming patterns - bolt circles.
I have found Little machine Shops calculator is quick and easy. It helps keep me from making a mistake using the DRO on my mill.
Yes, I know, I need to learn how to use it. The instructions to me are difficult.


And..>>>>>>
If you watch Blondi-hacks, she has a couple of good videos that cover using the DRO for bolt circles on cheaper DROs (She has a Precision Matthews, which uses the cheap chinesium ones). Bolt circle is definitely my most useful DRO tool.
 
A lathe is likely going to be a lot more rigid than a mill for boring. It is also easier to keep the bore square to the part. A mill column/head that is out of tram will bore crooked to the flat face. Obviously this is able to be measured and corrected, but it is one more variable to deal with. I'd recommend doing whatever method you are most comfortable with right now.

The bore can always be indicated into alignment on the mill with a dial test indicator without issue for later operations.
 
I'm not sure I like working this small.
Making these oil cups made me realize my lathe can do large and small work with good accuracy.
I single point cut the #5-40 threads and screwed up one of the passes.
Not having a DRO I didn't get back to the correct start point and did a bit of a mall job.
Tonight I'll try again with the mag back dial indicator to correctly position the thread starting point.
I had to work with magnifiers the entire time.
Now I see why a larger model may be a bit more fun.
 

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I'm not sure I like working this small.
Making these oil cups made me realize my lathe can do large and small work with good accuracy.
I single point cut the #5-40 threads and screwed up one of the passes.
Not having a DRO I didn't get back to the correct start point and did a bit of a mall job.
Tonight I'll try again with the mag back dial indicator to correctly position the thread starting point.
I had to work with magnifiers the entire time.
Now I see why a larger model may be a bit more fun.
Joe Py just posted a video on making this part. Looks more like a piece of jewelry than a steam engine part.
 
Yeah, he is a pro, I'm an apprentice.
I think I can nail it though.
 
I think you did a great job. How were you holding it? I kind of felt like Joe cheated with a hex collet. :eek:
 
I used a 5C collet in my new 5C chuck. It's not a hex collet. That part worked fine it's just setting up the cuts and watching what you are doing.
It's pucker time drilling out the center. That sliding arbor is slick, another item on my build list!
I think Joe said he was using a jeweler's (thing).
 
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