PM-1340GT/833T(V): Lots of questions

Okay, next crazy idea:

I have a 28"W x 33"D x 30"H "Safe Cabinet Laboratory" 30hr rated safe with two drawers which I store my ammo in. I don't actually know how heavy it is, but it's very heavy and when empty I need a friend to help move it... full of ammo, yeah, it's probably well over 300#. The thing was left by the previous owners because I think they thought it was bolted into the concrete (for a while I thought that too.

The top is not what I'd call perfectly flat and the previous owner seemed to have painted it grey. And there are no leveling feet or anything like that as you'd expect since it's a safe. But I was thinking it was nearly a perfect size as a base for 833TV w/ chip tray.

I would assume you really want to level the table on the mill which pretty much kills this idea? Or is there a way to make this into a useable base? The safe is too deep to put under a workbench, etc and trying to figure out where I can put it that is out of the way and this would solve that nicely.
 
If it is the correct size, and more importantly, height, I would use it. Where there is a mill will there is a way.
Do you think you can drill into the safe? If so, and I am just thinking out loud here, get another piece of steel (1/2" or so) the same size as the mill base and mount that to the safe using some short stand-offs. You could also just utilize the four mounting points with some shims or stand-offs directly under the mill.
Not sure how much "curve" to the top you are talking, but unless you get a blanchard ground piece of steel, most steel is not "flat". Flat has a broad definition though depending on application.
 
@7milesup: So basically the stand is 35" high while my safe is 30". So the table should be about 35" vs 40" or so high. I'm also 5'7" so figuring a little low isn't the end of the world.

As for drilling in the safe, honestly no idea. I assume it's just a matter of time. Seems much more of a fire-safe, than a prevent-thieves sorta safe since the locks and latches are clearly not going to keep out anybody who is determined and with basic hand tools.
 
I think that my stand is 34" tall for my 833. I would have to go measure it. It is very much where I like it although with the head all the way up it is a reach to the drawbar for me, and I am 6'.
 
synfinatic said:
I have a 28"W x 33"D x 30"H "Safe Cabinet Laboratory" 30hr rated safe with two drawers which I store my ammo in.
Click to expand...

I am going to suggest a totally different tack on this....

Open up the safe and sell the ammo. With the availability issues and prices these days, if any of it is 9mm you'll have enough to buy a fully tricked out Bridgeport.
 
.LMS. said:
I am going to suggest a totally different tack on this....

Open up the safe and sell the ammo. With the availability issues and prices these days, if any of it is 9mm you'll have enough to buy a fully tricked out Bridgeport.
Click to expand...

LOL.
 
Well my brilliant idea of bolting the mill to the top of the fire-safe hit a snag. Further research indicates the the gypsum insulation most likely contains 30-60% asbestos and of course due to the age it is already deteriorating. Putting holes in the steel case which will only expose the fibers to the air and drilling through that seems like a particularly bad idea.
 
synfinatic said:
Well my brilliant idea of bolting the mill to the top of the fire-safe hit a snag. Further research indicates the the gypsum insulation most likely contains 30-60% asbestos and of course due to the age it is already deteriorating. Putting holes in the steel case which will only expose the fibers to the air and drilling through that seems like a particularly bad idea.
Click to expand...
Well, at least you caught it before you filled your lungs with cancerous material.
 
So my next idea is to put the fire-safe about 15-20" to the right of the base of the mill. Looks like it is low enough that it should clear the X axis handle and shouldn't be too much in the way this way. The challenge here is now the width of the fire-safe + mill is longer and I'm a little short on horizontal space. One way to work around this is to place the mill next to a door which opens inward (the hinge is on the other side of the door). I'd have to lock the door while milling and move the table to the far right when not in use which is acceptable (door leads to the back yard).

To make things a little more complicated, the electrical sub-panel is on that wall about 28" from the edge of the door- so the mill will be in the way.

I'm planning on getting the X axis power feed, so was wondering:

1. On page 3 of the PM-833T manual it shows the total length of table extending 26-1/2" beyond the left edge of the chip tray. How much does the X axis feed motor add to that?

2. Adding the X axis feed reduces the travel a few inches. How far does the X axis feed hang off from the left edge of the chip tray with the table fully to the right?

3. In a perfect world, the mill would be pushed all the way back against the wall as that will make it easier to walk through the door, but I assume there may be need to access the back of the column? I or an electrician also may need to access the sub-panel. I'm a little concerned some electricians would balk working on a panel right next to a mill like this, but it's hard to estimate exactly where the Z column is going to end up in relation to the panel. I figure I'll need 6" between the back of the column and the wall? Maybe more? What is reasonable?

4. How much does the column stick out past the back of the chip tray? From the diagram it looks like about 3"?
 
Clearly that ammo is contaminated and unsafe. Send it to me for proper disposal.
 
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