PM-1030V or 1130V LATHE

I am nobody, but have a 6" 3 jaw scroll, and a 8" 4 jaw independent fwiw.....If I did it over they would have 2 piece jaws.
 
I’d probably get the 6” unless you think you’ll need the extra capacity. My (used) lathe came with both 6” and 10” 4-jaw chucks and I haven’t yet put on the 10”.
 
Since you were originally looking at an 8" lathe I'd guess the 6" will keep you happy for some time. The 8" will also be quite a bit heavier so even if you eventually want an 8" chuck your back will appreciate also having a lighter 6" chuck when a bigger chuck is not needed (probably most of the time).

If you have a hole in your pocket, I'd probably add the ER40 or 5C chuck with the $200 difference of upgrading to the 8" chuck.
 
Thank you for the feedback. Will leave the order as it is now and stay with the 6” chuck.
 
Thank you guys for this thread. I am literally reading the PM-1130 and PM-1228 manuals and trying to make the right choice. This will be yet another pure hobby for me on top of amateur radio, W6LMJ, and astronomy, Redding Observatory. A tipping point for me has been weight and number of Youtube videos posted by satisfied customers. And, of course reading forums like this. I do have a question about weight. I note the PM-1130 is listed at 575 pounds, while the PM-1228V is listed at 490 pounds. That is quite surprising. Should weight be a factor between the two lathes? I also note some have moved from using the PM stands to using a tool drawer cabinet as a stand. I have the 2-ton engine lift and am confident I can move either lathe on with or without the stand. But I am attracted to the metal drawed cabinet for tool storage. I hope I am not too late to the discussion to get a response.
 
I used a steel and maple workbench (acquired from the old Bell Labs) for my PM1030V. I wanted the additional height the workbench provided. I also purchased a 4 drawer tool check and hung it bellow the bench top. I also used a engine lift and note that you should be aware of issues with the engine lift legs getting in the way. Also, be aware that the leveling mounts for both machines are part of the stand. On my PM1030V, I added a couple of plates and screws to the lathe mounting bolts so I could true the lathe bed independent of the workbench.
 
tredding said:
Thank you guys for this thread. I am literally reading the PM-1130 and PM-1228 manuals and trying to make the right choice. This will be yet another pure hobby for me on top of amateur radio, W6LMJ, and astronomy, Redding Observatory. A tipping point for me has been weight and number of Youtube videos posted by satisfied customers. And, of course reading forums like this. I do have a question about weight. I note the PM-1130 is listed at 575 pounds, while the PM-1228V is listed at 490 pounds. That is quite surprising. Should weight be a factor between the two lathes? I also note some have moved from using the PM stands to using a tool drawer cabinet as a stand. I have the 2-ton engine lift and am confident I can move either lathe on with or without the stand. But I am attracted to the metal drawed cabinet for tool storage. I hope I am not too late to the discussion to get a response.
Click to expand...
To me, the deciding factor between the two would be if you want a QCGB and be able to switch between threading and turning/feed rates without having to change physical gears. That's a big reason I'm upgrading from my Atlas 618 to the 1236T (and almost ordered the 1228).

What I personally could not determine with absolute clarity is if you setup your gears on the 1130 for threading but then want to switch to power feed for turning (a much slower feed rate than threading) do you still have to switch back the gears?? I could live with only having to change gears when going to a different TPI for threading. However, I don't believe that's the case even with the 1130 having a separate drive shaft and lead screw for different operations. The 1130 power feed may be geared down depending on lead screw (threading) vs feed shaft operations, I just couldn't find a definitive answer.

For example... you setup your gears for 10 TPI. You do your single point threading operation and now want to go back to turning and power feeding... change gears again. Want to go back to 10 TPI and back to power feeding, that's changing gears twice. If I'm correct, knowing myself, I wouldn't be changing gears and subsequently wouldn't be single point threading :). How much effort is all personal preference/tolerance. Keep in mind, many just use taps and dies and you always have the option of an electronic lead screw so there is never a simple answer. I would have no reservation with ELS if PM or others provided an easy, bolt on, plug in version... but it appears to be a "project" in itself at the moment, certainly with the help of others and their components, it's just what do you want to take on. All this rant, is only relative if you plan to do threading.

It's not a huge range, 15 options to be exact, but if you do most imperial threading, the 1228 gives a decent range on single gear setup. Just note, there's no odd # TPI, that you will have to change gears.
1662125612889.png


I guess it's pretty clear.. I'm not a fan of changing gears... that's coming from my irritation on doing it a couple times on my Atlas 618... maybe these machines are easier or more enjoyable.

Another thing is the electronic differences between the 1130 and 1228. You'll want to confirm to get your own understanding and comfort level as well. The 1130 uses a more traditional VFD AC inverter setup and I believe that translates to easier finding parts/replacements/support if anything goes wrong. The 1228 is a proprietary brushless DC motor controller setup, so you are limited to PM getting parts from manufacturer. They do support it. I've talked to a couple different people from PM on this, one says 1130 has better electronics and the other says not to worry about the proprietary'ness of the 1228. Some camps despise BLDC motors, some don't. It's not conclusive.

Ironically, I looked at both 1130 and 1228, landed on the 1236T. A huge reason was the QCGB and overall quality improvement of the Taiwan versions but and I'd actually prefer the variable speed controllers out of the box in 1130 or 1228, regardless of electronics.

My input to be taken with a grain of salt... but I have had the same quandary in my decision making recently. I wish it all came down to size of lathe and good, better best... if it was only that simple.


Regarding weight... everyone with knowledge in this area says more weight, more better :). You'll hear often, it's not easy to add iron after the fact... but I think both are in a similar class weight wise.... make sure it's on a rigid stand/setup.
 
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skcncx said:
To me, the deciding factor between the two would be if you want a QCGB and be able to switch between threading and turning/feed rates without having to change physical gears. That's a big reason I'm upgrading from my Atlas 618 to the 1236T (and almost ordered the 1228).

What I personally could not determine with absolute clarity is if you setup your gears on the 1130 for threading but then want to switch to power feed for turning (a much slower feed rate than threading) do you still have to switch back the gears?? I could live with only having to change gears when going to a different TPI for threading. However, I don't believe that's the case even with the 1130 having a separate drive shaft and lead screw for different operations. The 1130 power feed may be geared down depending on lead screw (threading) vs feed shaft operations, I just couldn't find a definitive answer.

For example... you setup your gears for 10 TPI. You do your single point threading operation and now want to go back to turning and power feeding... change gears again. Want to go back to 10 TPI and back to power feeding, that's changing gears twice. If I'm correct, knowing myself, I wouldn't be changing gears and subsequently wouldn't be single point threading :). How much effort is all personal preference/tolerance. Keep in mind, many just use taps and dies and you always have the option of an electronic lead screw so there is never a simple answer. I would have no reservation with ELS if PM or others provided an easy, bolt on, plug in version... but it appears to be a "project" in itself at the moment, certainly with the help of others and their components, it's just what do you want to take on. All this rant, is only relative if you plan to do threading.

It's not a huge range, 15 options to be exact, but if you do most imperial threading, the 1228 gives a decent range on single gear setup. Just note, there's no odd # TPI, that you will have to change gears.
View attachment 419086

I guess it's pretty clear.. I'm not a fan of changing gears... that's coming from my irritation on doing it a couple times on my Atlas 618... maybe these machines are easier or more enjoyable.

Another thing is the electronic differences between the 1130 and 1228. You'll want to confirm to get your own understanding and comfort level as well. The 1130 uses a more traditional VFD AC inverter setup and I believe that translates to easier finding parts/replacements/support if anything goes wrong. The 1228 is a proprietary brushless DC motor controller setup, so you are limited to PM getting parts from manufacturer. They do support it. I've talked to a couple different people from PM on this, one says 1130 has better electronics and the other says not to worry about the proprietary'ness of the 1228. Some camps despise BLDC motors, some don't. It's not conclusive.

Ironically, I looked at both 1130 and 1228, landed on the 1236T. A huge reason was the QCGB and overall quality improvement of the Taiwan versions but and I'd actually prefer the variable speed controllers out of the box in 1130 or 1228, regardless of electronics.

My input to be taken with a grain of salt... but I have had the same quandary in my decision making recently. I wish it all came down to size of lathe and good, better best... if it was only that simple.


Regarding weight... everyone with knowledge in this area says more weight, more better :). You'll hear often, it's not easy to add iron after the fact... but I think both are in a similar class weight wise.... make sure it's on a rigid stand/setup.
Click to expand...
Great response, full of information and thought. I am settling on a PM-1236 but was tempted to go for the PM-1236T. I assume the PEP model is three-phased 220V and the SLP is single-phased? But I could not find the definition. So that is worth a phone call Tuesday before placing the order. Did you consider the PM-1236 before buying the PM-1236T?

Terry
 
tredding said:
Great response, full of information and thought. I am settling on a PM-1236 but was tempted to go for the PM-1236T. I assume the PEP model is three-phased 220V and the SLP is single-phased? But I could not find the definition. So that is worth a phone call Tuesday before placing the order. Did you consider the PM-1236 before buying the PM-1236T?

Terry
Click to expand...
I looked at the 1236 just to compare but did not really consider it. I went to the PM-1236T mainly because it is built in Taiwan and it seems they are overall higher quality. I'm taking PM's and everyone else's input regarding that... I have never seen or used either. No machine at the price point will be perfect but I wanted quality over quantity. Once thing for sure is that I'm building my own base, so that foot brake was of no value either, plus it's a heavier machine and not necessarily a good reason but I didn't want it to weight over the 1,000 lbs. The 1236 certainly gives you a lot if you select the PEP with DRO package.
 
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