OT - Storing PVC/ABS Cement

Running into the DIY to pick up fresh cement isn't an answer for me. It is a 40 mile round trip. Case in point, I was replacing an outside faucet with a freeze proof faucet. In trying to break the galvanized pipe connections, I managed break the CPVC pipe upstream from the shutoff valve and flood the basement before shutting the main supply. After dealing with the flood, I then had to repair the damage. This consisted of replacing the damaged section and while I was at it, installing the new faucet but I didn't have any usable cement so I had to make the run. That resulted in adding an extra hour to the job during which time, we had no water. I try to have basic plumbing and electrical supplies on hand to deal with such issues as they arise.

The solvent used in PVC cements has a high vapor pressure. If there is any mechanism for escape, it will continue to evaporate until the partial pressure of the solvent in the air outside the can equals the vapor pressure. Flooding with an inert gas won't stop the process. You have to stop the leak.

I had a similar problem with water based wood fillers. The plastic squeeze tubes would dry out despite my best efforts. I started storing them in a sealed Mason jar with an ounce or two of water in the jar and that solved the problem.

Polyurethane varnish will polymerize when in contact with oxygen in the air. I tried flooding partially used containers with argon, with CO2, and with propane with little success. The gases will dissolve into the polyurethane, creating a partial vacuum and the most minute leak will draw in air. The solution there was to decant the urethane into smaller containers, filling them completely to exclude any air. . I keep a supply of glass jars on hand ranging in size from 1/2 gallon down to a few ounces and when I have finished with a particular project, I decant the remainder into a smaller jar. They will keep for years that way.

Throwing containers in the freezer or refrigerator (for water based will slow down any chemical reaction and I use that for short term preservation as when I am applying multiple coats over a period of several days. To preserve brushes, I wrap them tightly in polyethylene film and chill them down. When I need to use them, I pull them out and let them come to room temperature before unwrapping and they're ready to go.
 
I have had good luck with leaving the excess glue around the neck and tightening the snot out of the cap with channel locks!
 
I prefer the above mentioned buying big cans to save per oz then throwing the can out 90% full a year or two later approach. This just makes me feel good because I saved money!
 
This is a three part thread.
1) When it comes to PVC/ABS cement, plastic wood, and wood glues. I buy the smallest containers that will do the job. Trying to save them after several months or even weeks is fruitless. Although I've been able to keep wood glues longer by squishing the plastic bottle till there is no air and then capping.
2) I suppose one could buy two containers and save the unopen one for later. Admittedly, I have not tried that one yet, since the hardware store is only 15 minutes away. There's also a problem with shelf life, what is it? However, just write on the container the date you bought it.
3) This is sort of related. Once found a crack in an ABS connector in the plumbing. It was just enough so there was a slight seepage. It was an odd type of pipe fixture and in a nasty place. To cut out and replace would take maybe a couple of days and be expensive. I cut a vee in the crack and filled it with a layer of cement. Let it cure and repeat. Until it reached the full thickness, just like welding thick steel. Been several years ago. still looks ugly, but it has never leaked.
 
For the PVC pipe cement, I bought a spay can that has both cement and primer. It's still working after 3+ years.
Aaron
 
For the homeowner, here's a tip I found works almost 100% of the time.
Whatever you need to fix something, in this case being PVC pip and cement, buy two cans. One to use today, and one for next time.
Once you have that "spare can", you will never need to fix plumbing again. One day you will be tempted to just toss it out but if you do, the universe will break your plumbing within a week.
That goes with ANY repairs, Always prepare for next time and there won't be a next time.
 
+1 on storing the can upside-down, It definitely extends the shelf life.
Cleaning any dried adhesive from the lid and can threads, before closing, also helps.
Tighten the can well, use a wrench to snug it closed, you'll need a wrench to open it anyway.

If the adhesive gels, you can reconstitute it by adding MEK solvent and stirring it well, let it sit for an hour or so and remix, add more MEK if necessary.
I had this happen to me the other day, the can wasn't inverted and it gelled, I was all out of MEK so I used some of the primer instead. It dyed the adhesive purple but it worked fine.

Note: I wouldn't use reconstituted adhesive on pressurized pipe or main waste lines. The above mentioned project involved gluing PVC boards together.
 
I have the same issue with CA. The stuff in hardware stores has so many additives to prevent curing on the shelf that it doesn't work that well without accelerator. The good stuff works 100 times better, but it cures in the bottle quickly. Not an issue when I was building planes, but now, it's always hardened by the time I need it again.
 
aliva said:
I've used this on various glues so it may work for PVC

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t appears to be a can of argon. I have tried argon with mixed results. In order for it to be effective, it important that there is an absolute seal of the container. Otherwise, oxygen will gradually seep in, replacing the argon. Also, it will only work on substances that cure with oxygen. That is not the case for PVC cement. It cures by evaporation of the solvent carrier.
 
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