New to me SB 10-R

[woodtickgreg]

That motor should do fine, and since you already have it the price is right. I might wire it for 220 though as it seems to be more efficient and steady as far as power goes. Do you need the counter shaft pulley measurement?

 

[Ed T]

The motor pulley on mine appears to be 2" OD and the countershaft pulley is 10". The belt looks like a 5L XX.It looks like it rides the ID of the pulley which could be by intent but it could be that the belt is worn. Assuming the SB vee-belt pulleys are "normal" and the belt is supposed to ride the sides of the pulley, the nominal ratio would be 5-1ish at the countershaft or 325 RPM. The cone pulley on the counter shaft is bigger than the one on the spindle which speeds things up a bit. I'm going to see if I can find a speed chart and se if any of this makes any sense in terms of spindle speed. I did run the lathe briefly before I bought it and the spindle seemed slow to me, but the belt was slipping so that may be the reason. Thanks for checking for me. If you get a chance see what your counter shaft pulley looks like.
Thanks for all your help and the inspirational thread.
ET

 

[Ed T]

As I mentioned in the intro to this thread, the machine I got had experienced a tip over and some minor damage as a result. I have started to fix some of the problems and here's the first one. The hand wheel in the apron suffered two problems when the lathe tipped over; the crank handle got bent and the back side of the hub cracked and was welded up by the PO. Associated with that repair the taper pin was replaced with a roll pin and the gear and shaft were replaced. The damaged parts looked like this:


I used this tool I made to remove the crank handle . Thanks to OLDMACHINIST for that tip.


After I removed the handle I put the stub end into a collet in a collet block and tapped it with a bronze hammer. No Go. So I heated the "waist" of the part where the bend seemed to be with an OA torch with a soft flame until it was dull red and tapped it a few more times and got it reasonably straight. Put it in the lathe and cleaned it up and now it looks like this;

I think it will be fine.
I am wrestling with the weld area. It's a sound weld and hard as glass. Tried turning it down just to clean it up but decided that I needed to keep some of my cutting tools so I have ground it down some. I'll get some pics after it's done and I've dealt with the roll pin holes.
ET

 

[joebiplane]

Since there is a fair amount of interest in the price; it was $2200. Willing buyer/willing seller and all. I have been looking for a year or so and the lathe market in this area is pretty thin.

' A thing of beauty is a joy forever" and what you just got is what i have at the top of my bucket list congrats !
joe

 

[Ed T]

Here are a few shots of the bed ways and one of the saddle. Not the best pics of something that's hard to capture on film. Suffice it to say, much of the frosting is still there and in the areas where it's not, I can see a wear line, but I cannot feel it with my fingernail. So I think I got lucky with my initial assessment

 

[woodtickgreg]

Wow, that bed and saddle look great, she's gonna clean up real good.

 

[Ed T]

OK, time for an update. As I mentioned in my intro, this machine had been tipped over at some time. Recently I'd guess since I found the broken off cap screws that originally held the apron on in the chip tray. Anyhow, as I disassembled the apron for the OCD rebuild I discovered that there were some cracks in the casting on the LH end. Sort of like the corner of the apron tried to break off, but, fortunately, it didn't. Everything seemed to be in the right place and the crack was not open, it was just there. I debated several options and decided on a low impact repair that should be adequate, look good, and be strong enough. Also, it's not "undoable" like, for example, a weld job gone bad. I felt it would be good not too get the casting too hot so I chose one of my favorites, Stay Brite silver bearing soft solder. I vee'd out the cracks a bit with a Dremel cut off wheel and heated the joint with a propane torch and used zinc chloride flux and soldered up almost all of the damage. Some areas around the funny little "staples" did not want to wet out so I didn't push it. After soldering, I added a couple of screws for good measure. The photos below should give you and idea of how it worked out.

 

[macrnr]

Nice job, I am curious what the staples are for. It almost looks like a factory "bandaid". Welding a casting like that could be trouble with the heat required, there are some close tolerances in there. Worst case, aprons can be had fairly easy. Problems like this just add to the adventure. Good Luck.

 

[woodtickgreg]

I agree, if it was me I would be looking for a new used casting. That thing has cracks everywhere! I have not had much luck with repairing broken or cracked cast iron, not worth the time I would put into it for a repair. Nothing like a solid unbroken piece. Your repair looks great and you did a good job, but will it hold up? And is it within spec.? If I was doing an ocd rebuild I would want it right. jmo.

 

[Ed T]

I'm almost certain that the "staples" are factory applied. There are several of them on the apron casting and they appear to be applied where there was a poor fill of the mold leading to a small void or knit line. They are under the paint in painted areas and, as you can see in the pictures, the wick hole is drilled through one of them. So, they were probably applied in the factory.