New to me Bridgeport mill

[FTlatheworks]

Its a combination of use in a limited window of movement, combined with time. Screws and nuts wear where the most movement occurs.

As for the gibs and ways, you will not know until you check them.

I read that you shouldn’t buy a mill if it has that? but every single mill I have looked at has it. There was a forum post saying a BP is clapped at that point?

 

[FTlatheworks]

Don't know if you have a lathe, but there are several videos on youtube showing how to build new lead screws from acme stock from Macmaster, and the ends cut off of your existing lead screws. This would save you a significant amount, while giving you a good turning project. Mike

I do have a lathe and would love to attempt that. Actually I can’t do it because my lathe is only a 36 inch between centers. Dang .

 

[GrifterGuru]

I do have a lathe and would love to attempt that. Actually I can’t do it because my lathe is only a 36 inch between centers. Dang .

That depends whether you have the right spindle bore and steady rests for the lathe.

 

[FTlatheworks]

That depends whether you have the right spindle bore and steady rests for the lathe.

I have steady rests, and a 1 1/4 spindle bore.

 

[GrifterGuru]

I have steady rests, and a 1 1/4 spindle bore.

If the feed screw you need to make is a smaller diameter than the bore of your spindle and you have steady rests, you have everything you need to make a replacement lead/feed screw.

That is what the spindle bore is for... Passing over length stock through it, though it is advisable to make a collar to suit the outside diameter of the stock and the inner diameter of the spindle bore to help stop the stock floating/deflecting as it passes through the outer end.

A fixed steady rest will support the length of stock hanging over the bed and a travelling steady will help stop deflection under cutting forces/loads.

Remove the tailstock if needed to get the steady rest as far right on the bedway as possible to give you the maximum working envelope. Had to that more than once myself when working long barstock.

 

[FTlatheworks]

If the feed screw you need to make is a smaller diameter than the bore of your spindle and you have steady rests, you have everything you need to make a replacement lead/feed screw.

That is what the spindle bore is for... Passing over length stock through it, though it is advisable to make a collar to suit the outside diameter of the stock and the inner diameter of the spindle bore to help stop the stock floating/deflecting as it passes through the outer end.

A fixed steady rest will support the length of stock hanging over the bed and a travelling steady will help stop deflection under cutting forces/loads.

Remove the tailstock if needed to get the steady rest as far right on the bedway as possible to give you the maximum working envelope. Had to that more than once myself when working long barstock.

How do you cut a continuous thread though? The leadscrew is longer than 40 inches. Just the acme threaded portion is 40 inches.

 

[GrifterGuru]

How do you cut a continuous thread though? The leadscrew is longer than 40 inches. Just the acme threaded portion is 40 inches.

You **carefully** move the stock along enough to continue cutting the threads and re-align the stock using the previously cut thread.

Had to do this a few years ago and I am going to be doing the same again soon. Literally cut the thread to full profile up to a specific point, carefully move the stock over and continue cutting the remainder of the thread.

It takes patience and you need to ensure you have it lined up properly, plus you need to use the "engage the half nuts and dont release them until the thread is complete" method.

 

[FTlatheworks]

You **carefully** move the stock along enough to continue cutting the threads and re-align the stock using the previously cut thread.

Had to do this a few years ago and I am going to be doing the same again soon. Literally cut the thread to full profile up to a specific point, carefully move the stock over and continue cutting the remainder of the thread.

It takes patience and you need to ensure you have it lined up properly, plus you need to use the "engage the half nuts and dont release them until the thread is complete" method.

that sounds tough… not gonna lie. Acme threads are deep.

Sounds like I need to start practice cutting a thread and then realigning it, or maybe cleaning thread up on the lathe instead of using a die.

 

[OTmachine]

Buy acme threaded rod

 

[GrifterGuru]

that sounds tough… not gonna lie. Acme threads are deep.

Sounds like I need to start practice cutting a thread and then realigning it, or maybe cleaning thread up on the lathe instead of using a die.

It is not easy, but the end result is knowing how to do something which, on first looks, appears impossible for a given size of lathe.

Yes, practice is the key to success, so is learning not to disengage the halfnuts and using the cross slide and tip of the tool to aid in re-alignment. Took me a few "dry runs" to work out how to get the alignment, but it does build a unique skill.