New to me Bridgeport mill

The dollar amount I mentioned was for the upper half head rebuild kit ($400.00), a leadscrew for a 42" table ($346.00), an X axis nut ($64.00), and a Y axis nut ($64.00). The Y axis nut is still in good shape, but it's over 50 years old. Heather at H&W Machine Repair recommended I replace it as long as I had the table off. I'll also check out the one-shot lube system. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the orifices are plugged. At the time I spoke to her the head rebuild kit was on sale. That was a couple weeks ago. The price has probably gone back up, so the total cost could be a bit more.

I didn't get a price on shipping, but if I buy everything, she suggested with tax the cost will be a little over $900.00.
 
GrifterGuru said:
If it was me in this situation, I would check every surface for damage or wear, check every feedscrew and associated nut/s, go through everything else like bearings, mounts, gibs, dovetails, check everything for alignment, bends et al.

A lot of the above can be done during cleaning but either way, I would suggest the "fine toothed comb" method of check everything multiple times taking photographs at the same time for a record.
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I checked the Y last night. It seems that I didn’t notice how easy it is to turn in the center of the Y axis, and how it does get tougher to turn at the end of its travel. It’s very easy for me to overlook things when I’m in front of people and I’m unsure of myself and they are watching me. I’m a little bit unhappy about this for the price we paid for the mill.
 
FTlatheworks said:
Don’t take the backlash out then? It’s like .100 backlash on the y, Maybe .050 on the x, but he said the same. He never took the backlash out or adjusted gibs.
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That's a lot of backlash, and it will be a bit irritating when you reverse direction, so fix it in good time. But use the DRO for positioning and lock the table before starting a milling operation, or the cutter forces will cause the table to shift a bit.
 
FTlatheworks said:
I checked the Y last night. It seems that I didn’t notice how easy it is to turn in the center of the Y axis, and how it does get tougher to turn at the end of its travel. It’s very easy for me to overlook things when I’m in front of people and I’m unsure of myself and they are watching me. I’m a little bit unhappy about this for the price we paid for the mill.
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The screw may be worn. Its super easy to pull the Y axis screw and take a peak at the threads. You should be able to tell if its badly worn. I just picked one up it has .200" backlash in the X and Y going to need new screws and nuts
 
seasicksteve said:
The screw may be worn. It’s super easy to pull the Y axis screw and take a peak at the threads. You should be able to tell if it’s badly worn. I just picked one up it has .200" backlash in the X and Y going to need new screws and nuts
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Yes, but would the y being hard to turn be from the ways or the gibs being worn unevenly?

Not the lead screw and nut?
 
FTlatheworks said:
Yes, but would the y being hard to turn be from the ways or the gibs being worn unevenly?

Not the lead screw and nut?
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Its a combination of use in a limited window of movement, combined with time. Screws and nuts wear where the most movement occurs.

As for the gibs and ways, you will not know until you check them.
 
FTlatheworks said:
Yes, but would the y being hard to turn be from the ways or the gibs being worn unevenly?

Not the lead screw and nut?
Click to expand...
Yes it could be the ways Could be the nut is snugged up on the worn part of the screw and it is binding on the part that is not worn or a combination of both
 
Don't know if you have a lathe, but there are several videos on youtube showing how to build new lead screws from acme stock from Macmaster, and the ends cut off of your existing lead screws. This would save you a significant amount, while giving you a good turning project. Mike
 
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