New PM 1236 on its way!

Bob,

I wrote a user manual and it's in the thread called PM 1236 FAQ. There's a preliminary version and an updated version. Make sure you get the second one.

Here you go.... grab the manuals from Post #13 of this link. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...Q-(Frequently-Asked-Questions)?highlight=1236



Ray


Will:
Yes Will I was very concerned. I was in the pickup, pulling it so the truck driver could get the liftgate up so I didn't see it go over. But since I am a pilot I learned not to get distracted about problems. I immediately got busy trying to get in upright and into the shop. It was a real job but once we got it in the shop on the concrete it was pretty easy to handle. I also have an 1100# winch that I used to pull it into the shop. Then I lifted it off its pallet and onto two 1000# movers dollies into the room I wanted to put it in. Then I assembled the base, lifted the lathe with the engine hoist and slid the base under it. I had already attached the base to the 4x6's for feet. I think it is too short for me anyway.
Trying to learn what all the dials and levers do and have checked tailstock alignment and ran the break-in procedure that Ray recommended. Right now I'm making a new nut with handle for the top of the QCTP. I don't like using a crescent wrench. I made one for my G0602 and like it very much.
I hope to learn lots more from you guys on this forum

Bob
 
Bob,

I wrote a user manual and it's in the thread called PM 1236 FAQ. There's a preliminary version and an updated version. Make sure you get the second one.

Here you go.... grab the manuals from Post #13 of this link. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...Q-(Frequently-Asked-Questions)?highlight=1236



Ray
Yes Ray, I downloaded it several days ago and have read it several times. Very good. I do need more information on how to use the D1-4 chuck system. The marks are not very clear on mine. I'll think of more questions as I learn more.

Thanks for writing the manual. It certainly helps.

Bob
 
Will:
Yes Will I was very concerned. I was in the pickup, pulling it so the truck driver could get the liftgate up so I didn't see it go over. But since I am a pilot I learned not to get distracted about problems. I immediately got busy trying to get in upright and into the shop. It was a real job but once we got it in the shop on the concrete it was pretty easy to handle. I also have an 1100# winch that I used to pull it into the shop. Then I lifted it off its pallet and onto two 1000# movers dollies into the room I wanted to put it in. Then I assembled the base, lifted the lathe with the engine hoist and slid the base under it. I had already attached the base to the 4x6's for feet. I think it is too short for me anyway.
Trying to learn what all the dials and levers do and have checked tailstock alignment and ran the break-in procedure that Ray recommended. Right now I'm making a new nut with handle for the top of the QCTP. I don't like using a crescent wrench. I made one for my G0602 and like it very much.
I hope to learn lots more from you guys on this forum

Bob

Bob, great job & good to hear a happy ending!


D1-4 chuck system. The marks are not very clear on mine.

I borrowed this pic from another machinist buddy of mine, different lathe but is a D1-cam lock spindle as well. I didn't have a need to do it to mine but the colored mark makes it real easy to see the position.

lathe2-4.jpg




If you meant that the arrow stamps that are on your spindle are not that visible, they aren't that important as long as you know where to set the cam. 12:00 for open, & between 3:00 - 5:00 locked is sufficent. Be sure to check the height of the cam lock studs & adjust as necessary before actually using the chucks & faceplate. The cam lock studs usually have a groove on them. Adjust the groove so it lines up flush with the surface of the backplate, then adjust as needed after checking for proper lock up.

You can also make a mark on you spindle to use as reference for #1 like I did below. But before doing so, look at the tip of the nose at the taper, one of the holes may be marked (red paint on mine) & that might be what the factory used for reference but I'm not for sure. It seemed that way on my lathe.

And reposition in each hole to check for the lowest runout. I'm sure Ray probably covers all this in his spindle thread. I use a Thomson linear shaft to check for runout, pictured below. The diameter of the shaft is best to be close to the size of the chuck's through hole or you can use about the same size that you will be working with most commonly if that applies. As long as it's thick enough not to deflect easy. I use 1.5" for the lathe & 7/8" for the mill. I also use 1" sometimes as most of what I make is about 1"

Img_6643.jpg


Img_6417.jpg




Right now I'm making a new nut with handle for the top of the QCTP. I don't like using a crescent wrench. I made one for my G0602 and like it very much.

That will be a great addition. I've seen plenty of people make those & it looks very convenient. I still prefer to just use a wrench that I bought specifically for my SQCTP that sits on the right side of the chip pan at all times. Here it is when everything was brand spanking new.

Img_6753.jpg


lathe2-4.jpg


lathe2-4.jpg


Img_6643.jpg


Img_6643.jpg


Img_6417.jpg


Img_6417.jpg


Img_6753.jpg


Img_6753.jpg
 
4x6's for feet. I think it is too short for me anyway.

I forgot to mention. A good height for the lathe is to have the centerline of the spindle about up to your elbow. This really reduces fatigue so you won't be bending over so far all the time when standing in front of the lathe for hours. This was recommended to me & after I did that I can't believe how much of a difference it made. Then adding a good anti-fatigue mat also makes a world of a difference. I use Wearwell mats for both the lathe & mill. Your feet & back will thank you.
 
Elbow height is about right. Seems so to me anyway. I got stuck running a little Kia-Seiki turret lathe that must have been 8-10 inches low for me. I'm not all that tall, about 6'2", but that thing killed my back. I finally asked to either move off it, or come in and raise it up on blocks. I didn't run it too much after that. It was all metric, so no one liked it, but I did except for the height. It was very, very accurate. Once you translated the drawing to metric, that is. Kind of wish I had it now.
 
Oh good... & thanks for the kind words.

Please note the deficient areas (as you did) and post them here so I can address that in the manual. For now, I'm glad Will posted some good info about the camlocks.

Thanks


Ray

Yes Ray, I downloaded it several days ago and have read it several times. Very good. I do need more information on how to use the D1-4 chuck system. The marks are not very clear on mine. I'll think of more questions as I learn more.

Thanks for writing the manual. It certainly helps.

Bob
 
Bob,

One thing I don't think was mentioned, and that is if you plan on using flood coolant you will want to use some silicone between or around your lathe and chip pan.
An ounce of prevention and all that.

Gary
 
Hey Bob,

see I told you. Great advice, great bunch of people. Man your machine looks great right side up. Hee hee. Your learning curve will be shorter. Take your time. Each one on this thread has helped me. These people are volunteers and very experienced.
mike

matt,
my machine came from Walter Meier. Not you. I wish I had known about you then. There is a very long thread herein describing that odessey. My machine is a good machine; however, ..... Thank you sincerely for your concern.
if you ever need assistance in North Alabama, you can contact me.

mike
 
Another Question: Do our machines need to be grounded at the machine in addition to the ground on the third wire of the power cord?

M flood coolant pump says it runs on 3 phase 220 volts. How does it run on single phase?

Bob
 
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