New Pm 1030v Lathe

The angle graduations on lathe compound slides aren't done in a consistent direction. The usual instructions assume they read 0° for perpendicular to the lathe axis and 90° for parallel. However, just as often they are numbered in the opposite direction, reading 0° when parallel to the lathe axis and 90° for perpendicular.

You pretty much have to know which way your lathe is numbered and adjust as needed.

In his case, it looked like his threads weren't symmetric. That's what you get if you have the compound angled too close to the lathe axis. The crests and left flanks of the threads will get cut away during the initial passes. The point of the tool has to stay on or above the left flank of the thread as it works its way down to the root of the thread.
 
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Two identical lathes numbered differently, I guess anything goes in China. That will be the first thingI look at when my 1030 arrives hopefully this week.
Thanks for the explanation.
 
I feel like I keep pushing the lathe looking for a limit and I haven't found one yet.

I did have an issue a little while ago where the spindle motor overheated and it damaged one of the brush holders. PM had a new one to me 2 days later which installed without an issue. I haven't had an issue with the new motor despite pushing it very hard.

Here is what happened to the motor.
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I thought I had a picture of the motor but I don't. I believe it was a Nema 42 frame, 4000 RPM, and it is driven by a KBLC-240D speed control board. Some of the castings were a little bit rough, but everything looks good where it counts. Seems to be a theme with this machine.

I have made a few leadscrew with the lathe recently. They were 10 TPI and with 12L14 steel.
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A couple pulleys.
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I am working on a video of a few of the bigger cuts the machine has made.

I also just finished a job to help out a friend that required 72 parts to be made from 304 stainless in a short amount of time. The machine was pushed very hard, each of the 72 parts had a groove that needed to be cut, and the machine handled it beautifully. The power crossfeed is an invaluable feature and I will never purchase another lathe without one.
 
Nice looking work.

I wish I could get in on some of that “2 day parts train.”

I finally crashed my lathe, all my fault and bent my carriage pinion gear. It’s been a little over a week, we are still “waiting to hear from the factory.”

While the lathe was down, I wound up straightening the pinion, I looked into a few other small issues the lathe was having.

My tailstock wouldn’t eject anything anymore, and found the Dutchman screw had been drilled too little into the meat of the bronze bushing allowing the bushing to slide out.

The pinion gear I broke, I’d like to purchase, this piece, I’ve asked PM to replace.

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I got a new 6" chuck for the lathe and I made a backplate for it. I also got to use the faceplate for the first time since I got the machine.

The chuck is from Ebay, and I got this one specifically because it has 2 piece jaws, so I can use soft jaws. I got the one that mounts from the front, so I can use it on my mill if I want to. I got it for $123 after shipping. I am not sure why the seller changed the price to $558... I certainly didn't pay that much.

Here is a link to the one I got: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-3-JAW-SE...230010?hash=item48a19f7fba:g:yjMAAOSwhLJZpgGy

The backplate is made out of .75" aluminum plate. I am probably losing a bit in rigidity, but if it ends up being a problem, I will buy either cast iron or steel and remake it. It was actually pretty simple to make. I cut off stock from a larger plate, stuck it up on the face plate, drilled it, bored it to roughly the spindle diameter, then put it in the 3 jaw to round out the edges. Once it was round, I stuck it in the 4 jaw, bored out the center to 1.967" (which is 49.96 mm), then I faced the front square. Next, I drilled and tapped the back for the mount and drive dogs. I used the drive dogs I made for the ER32 chuck I was working on a while ago. Then I mounted it on the lathe spindle, faced off the other end, and turned down the outside for the chuck reference edge. Last, I drilled and tapped the holes for the lathe mounting screws. I tested it cutting some 1.5" 12L14 and it works very well. The jaws are a very good fit and held it very securely. The jaws on this thing are so massive it feels like a fan blowing air at me. All in all I am pleased with it so far.

Here I am just making sure I will have enough stock for it.
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Up on the face plate and drilled and bored. The face plate is an interesting tool to use. I am not sure when I will need to use one again, but I will keep it in mind for the future.
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Then I put it up in the 3 jaw using the inside jaws. It was a reach to machine the outside and it took quite some time.
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Then I held it in the 4 jaw to do the final boring and facing.
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Here it is after boring and facing.
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Here it is mounted up. I couldn't reach the backplate to turn it down to match the outside of the chuck. I need to take the chuck off to do that at some point.
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Here it is next to the 5" 3 jaw that came with the machine. Its crazy how much bigger 1" is.
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I modeled it up so I could make some soft jaws. Hopefully I can get near zero runout if I make the soft jaws right.
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Also as a side note. It came with a very nice chuck key. I like this one much better than the one that came with the machine.
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Navy
Don’t forget, you never received anything unless we see pictures!
I think you’re going to like this lathe.
 
Anyone have a good set of insert tools to suggest. I have been using my PM1030 for almost two years now and been getting by on my Anytime tools insert set. But I want to step up my insert tool game, now that I feel comfortable with not breaking a tool every time I use it :D. I saw that shooter was able to use negative rake tools which has me thinking of WNMG, as I begin venturing into steel more. I was also looking at VNMG styile tools. or anything that could let me get closer to the shoulders than a TCMT can. I bought a kennametal tool holder on ebay 5/8" shank with a Shars xl shank but you cannot get it to go low enough to get the tool to go to the center line so want to give the warning to those looking at getting bigger shanked tools.
 
Anyone have a good set of insert tools to suggest. I have been using my PM1030 for almost two years now and been getting by on my Anytime tools insert set. But I want to step up my insert tool game, now that I feel comfortable with not breaking a tool every time I use it :D. I saw that shooter was able to use negative rake tools which has me thinking of WNMG, as I begin venturing into steel more. I was also looking at VNMG styile tools. or anything that could let me get closer to the shoulders than a TCMT can. I bought a kennametal tool holder on ebay 5/8" shank with a Shars xl shank but you cannot get it to go low enough to get the tool to go to the center line so want to give the warning to those looking at getting bigger shanked tools.

Glad you aren't breaking tools all the time. I did that a lot too in the beginning. Its nice to feel confident enough to get some nicer tooling because it will last more than 15 minutes. Here are the insert tools I use most on my lathe.

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1. This is a CCMT 0602 turning tool holder. I made this one because I could find the inserts online for rediculously cheap. I can usually get them for $5-$8 for 10 inserts and I get 1 set specifically for steels and 1 set for aluminum. I will be remaking this one with the right thread to use the correct insert screw which should make it even tougher. The aluminum specific inserts can take tiny cuts (like .0005) and leave a fantastic finish.

2. These are DCMT 0702 inserts. Same deal as above, I got them because I can find the inserts cheap and I made the holders. These are excellent for getting into tight spaces while profiling. I have used them for roughing before just to see if they can handle it, but I have better tools for roughing.

3. This is the WNMG tool you were talking about. It is the only negative rake tool I have tried. I got them on ebay for $12 for a pack of 10 and they are fantastic. I am still on the first insert and have only indexed to 3 of the 6 sides. I use this one for roughing 12L14 mostly because it can take a .1" (.2" off diameter) cut and make a great chip. I have trouble getting it to chip well in aluminum though and in some other steels, it doesn't like to make chips. I probably don't have the horsepower to get it deep enough and run hard enough to make chips in those steels. It is also in a home made holder. I will be making another 2 holders, one in steel with a proper clamp and another that is much smaller for my micro lathe. A cool thing about this insert is that it will make tight and tiny chips with 12L14 while cutting only .005" deep.

4. These are store bough CCMT 0602 boring bars. I got these recently for my birthday for $25 on amazon. They came with 10 inserts as well. I should have gotten these 2 years ago when I got the lathe. I have been using brazed carbide boring bars and they are honestly garbage. They were $15 I think and for $10 more, these blow them away. I was making some air cylinder chambers which needed a ton of aluminum to be removed and the big boring bar knocked it out of the park. I was cutting .06" (.12" off the diameter) at 1000 RPM at the highest feed rate .01"/rev and it was just dropping the chips right out and they were perfect little Cs. At the widest point, the machine was removing 5 cuin/min!

5. This is also a new one, its a MGEHR 1212-2 grooving/parting tool holder. It can be used for parting, but only up to about 1" in diameter (or something with .5" walls). I have only used it a handful of times so far but it has done a great job for me. It was $19 for the tool and 10 inserts.

6. These are the tools I have had the longest and used the most. They are the common 3/8" triangle insert tools. I have had these since I got the lathe in August 2015. I have used them enough to burn out 15 inserts and they last a pretty long time. I will admit though that I went through 6 inserts in a 4 day period doing a rush job with 304 stainless and I was pushing them way harder than I should have been. I was running facing 1.25" stainless parts at 1250 RPM and .05" DOC. It was about 400 SFM which a US made insert may have been able to handle, but the cheap inserts only lasted about 3 parts per edge. I had to face 72 of them to shorten between .4 and .6" each. I also love using these on other steels and aluminums because they make fanstastic chips. I got new inserts for them that were $12 for 10 inserts and each one lasts a while (except when pushing them too hard in stainless because you have a very short window to make the parts and its worth burning up a bunch of inserts to save time).

Those are the ones I use most. I have yet to try any threading inserts, but I would like to sometime in the future. I have also had my eye out for some CNMG 432 inserts. I think the lathe can handle those, but I am not sure. I have my eye out for large insert lots on ebay for a bunch of inserts I can make holders for.

Here are the links for the tools and inserts I mentioned above.

1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-CCGT...107604&hash=item41c7c1a49d:g:jXwAAOSwjKFZW2iZ

1. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Gold-C...771753?hash=item2cbf1ae4a9:g:IQ8AAOSw42JZD--y

2. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-DCMT...398798&hash=item4b1611eada:g:UFsAAOSwo4pYmJkS

3. These are similar, but I don't think they are exactly the same. They are also a tad more expensive than the ones I got. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-PCS-EUR...354457?hash=item212e477019:g:~7oAAOSwhvFZB7fT

4. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J9KXF5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

5. https://www.ebay.com/itm/MGEHR-1212...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

6. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10X-TCMT11...755676?hash=item25d3c5f45c:g:NcAAAOSw3utY6Hmu

I know most of the ones I use are cheap Chinese inserts, but I have had good luck with them and they have served me well. I would buy name brand ones, but its tough to justify them for the work I do. Typically, each name brand insert costs as much as 5 to 10 Chinese inserts, and it has taken me 2 years to go through 1 box of Chinese inserts.

I hope that helps!
 
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