Mount to concrete block

[Karl_T]

I've used molly bolts on drywall - they work great here. Doing a bunch of reading - none of these offers mention concrete block. I can't choose my spot - some holes will be solid block - some will pop through to the block cavity. Anyway, don't think these will work well.

This confast sleeve anchor says for block. Bit spendy

CONFAST 5/16" x 2-1/2" Hex Sleeve Anchor Zinc Plated (100 per Box): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

CONFAST 5/16" x 2-1/2" Hex Sleeve Anchor Zinc Plated (100 per Box): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

 

[Firstram]

I've used molly bolts on drywall - they work great here. Doing a bunch of reading - none of these offers mention concrete block. I can't choose my spot - some holes will be solid block - some will pop through to the block cavity. Anyway, don't think these will work well.

This confast sleeve anchor says for block. Bit spendy

CONFAST 5/16" x 2-1/2" Hex Sleeve Anchor Zinc Plated (100 per Box): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

CONFAST 5/16" x 2-1/2" Hex Sleeve Anchor Zinc Plated (100 per Box): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

If you bolt lumber to the wall, you can choose the bolt locations!

 

[Karl_T]

Ok, if you search enough you can find expertise:

Best Cinder Block Fasteners

View detailed information about the best cinder block fasteners, how to install and where to purchase.

www.confast.com

EDIT ended up buying something called a lag shield anchor

 

[brino]

Be sure NOT to use steel pipe strap directly on the copper pipe; that will develop pin hole leaks where they contact.
Use copper strap or the plastic coated stuff.

Brian

 

[Boswell]

there may be an appropriate adhesive that you can use to glue a treated 2x4 or some plywood to the block, that you can then use as an easy anchor point. I have some 3/4" plywood where I mounted my water filters that I then can attach my hold-downs to.

 

[woodchucker]

so assuming you have a copper standoff. I would take some liquid nails and glue it on the wall, where your screw holes are. while mounted to the pipe. shoot some glue into the holes and put the screws back in...

Liquid nails will hold it on it's own, but the screws will hold in the liquid nails. Plus the liquid nails if done right allows separation between the copper and concrete block..

Just another idea.

 

[mmcmdl]

That filter should have an angle bracket that screws into the head to mount it to the wall . That way the filter system is solidly mounted and the pipe is not . It is simple to make one and I'll post a pic of one if you want . We make them at the plant and as usual , I have a few down the basement . Who's your filter made by ? If not Pall Filter , I'll relay the info. to work and let them know they're slipping !

Edit . I also don't see a bypass route . Makes changing the filter element out a breeze . Self drilling Stainless bolts work great in concrete / cement FWIW .

 

[Boswell]

here is a picture of the mounting brackets that are mentioned above, along with a bypass.

 

[mmcmdl]

Nice set-up . He can see the brackets clearly .

 

[epanzella]

If you don't drill the hole deep enough the tapcon will strip itself out when it hits the bottom of the hole. Below is what I use. Most people call them smack nails. Slip the main body into the hole then smacking the nail expands the body in the hole. Fast and they hold well. Use 3" for 2x4's.