Master precision Machinist level

ground bar for testing tailstock alignment
no, for headstock alignment. You measure the tailstock alignment by sweeping it with a test indicator in the bore, then advancing it out, and sweeping it again. if the bore of thetailstock is in line with the spindle rotation, you are all good. Th very rare instance, the OD of the tailstock piston is not concentric with th MT bore. It doesn't matter. Only the mt bore being concentric and the movement of the piston have to be in line.
If you’re new: Before you go down some rabbit hole of chasing ultra (unnecessary) levels of lathe setup perfection, you might just turn a 4 inch long stub of metal in your lathe and measure both ends.
Exactly. I mentioned earlier that the OP should make chips, even before setting up the lathe. Most hobby work seems to be in the 2" X2" X 2" envelope. Setting up your lathe won't make your stuff any more accurate over that interval unless you are skilled enough to chase tenths or sub-tenths.
 
I had to go back to this as two things stand out.

1: The guy you had over is smart enough to understand that houses "Float" on the surface of the earth.

2: Deflection. Your work holding (Collet vs 3 jaw chuck) and stickout will be the greatest factors you are likely to run into and not understand.

It takes a huge amount of force to make a cutter cut aluminum or steel. Just try to hold a tool bit in your hand and make a cut.

Second think, don't do that, there will be blood.

But you get the picture, it takes tons of force to make metal cut metal and every action has an equal and opposite reaction.

Wonky chuck jaws will induce taper in your part, this is why we have collets, for times when you need more accuracy.

And stickout is teh debbil.
Right , im at a criss roads. The machine is just so so , im goung to attempt to get better thsn this machine before going to over board.
I dont know if I should improve tooling , collet sets, follow rests ectect for this lath or just work within this lathes short falls until a better lathe possibly with more tooling comes my way.
 
Right , im at a criss roads. The machine is just so so , im goung to attempt to get better thsn this machine before going to over board.
I dont know if I should improve tooling , collet sets, follow rests ectect for this lath or just work within this lathes short falls until a better lathe possibly with more tooling comes my way.
Not sure if you mentioned it, but what tooling do you have currently.

A pic would help vs an explanation. Pics of the chuck jaws and tool post and tooling.

This is a lathe/mill combo?
 
Not sure if you mentioned it, but what tooling do you have currently.

A pic would help vs an explanation. Pics of the chuck jaws and tool post and tooling.

This is a lathe/mill combo?
Yes smithy 3-1 1220 from the 90s
Here it is the day I brought it home. Weighs about 500lbs or so.
I keep getting errors trying to load pictures
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I'm sure this lathe is fine for small work. Using small milling cutters and HSS tooling in the lathe is going to work best for a machine if this type.
 
I will try later, painfully slow to add pictures hereView attachment 465928
What dabbler said.

On the plus side it looks like it’s in really good shape.

On the downside as a milling machine these can be lacking a bit in performance.

The other plus side is as a lathe it should be fine.

On the other other plus side it will give you a taste for milling as long as you keep it within its limitations.
 
I dont know if I should improve tooling , collet sets, follow rests ectect for this lath or just work within this lathes short falls until a better lathe possibly with more tooling comes my way.
You should buy a couple beginner machining projects books, and start turning metal. Get out in the shop and make some things you probably don’t need, and start establishing a baseline of experience.
 
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