Lathe flat belt help

mwestcott said:
If it stretches too much I'm out of luck until I send it off to be re-clipped.
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I don't know about the Logan, but on my South Bend there's a tension adjustment for the counter shaft. I make the belt short enough to have it most of the way in. As it loosens I can adjust it to keep proper tension.

Around $20 is a pretty good price for a flat belt.

They have a clipper belt tool for installing the clips that fits in a bench vise. I was lucky enough to find one at a yard sale, but they also show up on ebay. And I found one at Tractor Supply about a month ago for about $120. I got the clips here:

http://www.sloanex.com/hay-parts/belt-lacers.html

Of course I have two lathes and a horizontal mill that use flat belts so it makes sense for me to be able to do it myself. You may just want to order a belt instead.

I posted about this here:

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/thre...in-your-shop-today.14637/page-261#post-411097
 
I used this company to get a new flat belt for a Southbend Heavy 10. I wanted a glued belt, but this company sells laced and glued. They are in Amish country in Eastern PA which may be why they are still in business. I am happy with the new belt.

https://albinoindustrialbelting.com/
 
I needed a new belt for my SB 9 lathe and checked at leatherdrivebelts.com, as I heard nothing but good things about them. I think the price was $1 per square inch which would have made my belt cost $50+. While that is not a bad price, my tight budget on Social Security couldn't handle that so I went to the local Amish tack shop and bought a piece of leather for $5. They cut it to length and width and shaved the thickness for me.The only difference is, drive belts are usually made of prestretched leather where I bought raw tanned leather. I just have to shorten it when it stretches and re-lace it. I have been using the belt for 2 years with no problems except I had to shorten it once. I just went back yesterday and bought another piece of leather to have a spare belt.
As for lacing, I happens onto a handful of the metal lacing at a scrap yard for $3. Got enough to last the rest of my life. This lacing is still available from McMaster Carr ( but you have to buy a whole box for around $30). The lacing is a solid strip an you cut to length. It is simply squeezed in a vise to install, no special expensive tools needed. I usually just lay it on the bench and tap it with a hammer. Works perfect.
I also found a new belt sometimes slips a good bit under load until it gets "broke" in. To fix this, during the break in period, I rub the pulleys wit a bar of " ordinary" soap . It works great as a belt dressing. But don't use your wife's beauty cream bar, try to find a basic soap bar.
 
I have used the serpentine type belt on my SB for a few years now, and it works well until it stretches a tad or some grip surface deteriorates on the rubber - but......
on a notion to get me thru a job on the lathe, I ran a circle of Duct tape (don't laugh - hear me out) around the spindle pulley just to tighten things up, and it works....but I did not want to leave it that way. I pulled off the tape after finishing the job, and some sticky residue was left behind on the pulley. Just for kicks I left it there, and the belt kept working very well for me - the same one that was slipping slightly earlier. I'm still running that belt, and have done probably 15 hours of work on the lathe since then with no slipping issues.

Hmmm.....I'm gonna leave it that way for now. :encourage:
 
Thanks for the Albino link. I had been directed there before, but the website was no longer in existence, thought they'd gone out of business. Dave, did you get a leather or synthetic belt?
 
I currently have a serpentine belt on my 10" Logan and it has worked just fine for several years. However, I have been thinking about getting a replacement to have on hand in case I need it, and have been considering getting a leather flat belt for it again. I have ready access to a Clipper tool, so that is not a concern. Thanks for posting the information on leather belt sources!
 
I also bought a synthetic belt (green color) from Al Bino for my South Bend 10L (they advised me on calculating the correct length--they do vary) and it worked perfectly. It comes with two kinds of glue for the different layers of the belt and instructions for gluing. It's holding up very well and I doubt it will ever need to be replaced until the next owner has to cut it to disassemble the lathe. It's never slipped once.
 
mwestcott said:
Thanks for the Albino link. I had been directed there before, but the website was no longer in existence, thought they'd gone out of business. Dave, did you get a leather or synthetic belt?
Click to expand...

Mine is a synthetic. Nylon outer and rubber inner. They sell a kit. The belt is scarfed for the joint and cut for whatever length you request. The kit contains two adhesives, one for the rubber and one for the nylon. I cut a recess the width of the belt in a piece of scrap wood. I used this for alignment when clamping the joint. Worked well.
 
Thanks all for the help. I am vacillating between traditional leather or the Albino rubber/nylon. I'll post a followup when I make the call and get it set up.
 
Not trying to convince you, just posting a picture of the kit for future readers. Note they even include a piece of candy.

Two brushes for the separate glues, a sealed bag with the two glues, instructions, the belt and an Al Bino card. The scarf joint on the end of the belt. Runs smooth and quiet and does not slip.

Southbend_Heavy_10_new_flat_belt_kit_2911.jpg
 
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