Just Acquired a SB 9A. Questions.

[ShagDog]

Over the weekend, I made a 9 hour one way trek to buy a SB9A Just getting it cleaned up a little. It has a catalog number of 544-R which is the 4 1/2 foot bed with 8 speed V- Belt drive.

I also ran it in all 8 speeds and with the cross feed, longitudinal feed and thread feed, and everything seemed to run nicely Got it moved to position and will let it sit overnight before I try to level it. It is now about .010" out of level (twist). I do want to get turning on it.

It came with a taper attachment, QCTP, 3-jaw chuck, face plate, lathe dogs , live center and other stuff in the pictures.

Before I turn on it, I want to find out as much as possible about this lathe, and I want to make sure my spindle is getting oiled. In the pictures, you will see the oil cups. I topped them off with some 20w non-detergent oil, and they seem to use very little oil. How long does the oil stay in the cup when they are lubricating properly? In other words, how would I know if the bearings are getting enough oil. Also, there are 2 holes right above the oil cups; are these breather holes or what?

I do plan on making a new pulley tightening rod, eventually.

I'm sure I will have more questions, later.

 

[jcp]

The holes are for installation of the wicks under the spindle. With the spindle removed you press the wick down against it's spring and run a wire through the hole and over the wick. This holds the wick retracted so you can install the spindle. Just pull the wire out after the spindle is in place and the wick will rise against the spindle. By the way 20Wt oil is too heavy for the spindle and the clutch reservoir.....SB calls for 10 in those two places. When the wicks and clearances of the spindle are correct the spindle reservoirs rarely need any oil added. They will show a minor level change when running but it should come back to full when stopped.

 

[ShagDog]

Jcp, I appreciate the excellent response. I'll have to get some 10w. How can I tell if the wicks are in there, without removing the spindle? I don't intend to remove the spindle at this time. Per my calculations, the spindle runout with a DTI on the shoulder and just turning by hand, appears to be around .0001" with which I am very pleased.

However, I did discover 2 issues so far. The backgear nearest the spindle nose is missing a tooth. Looks like a sheared off perfectly because I can't really tell there was one there. Does not appear to affect it with no load. I guess I will know more when I try to turn something in backgear.

The second issue is the cross slide compound threads being worn around the middle, creating some back and forth play in the cross slide.

 

[markba633csi]

The V belt versions are hard to find- great score!
-Mark

 

[jcp]

Welcome to 50+ years old machinery!
New lead screws are available and change the nut also.....you need to find another back gear or repair yours....it will show up when under a load.
You have to remove the spindle to check the wicks....not a big deal.

 

[Manual Mac]

Yes the V belt versions are great.
Looks well tooled.
Love the patina. Resist the urge to paint it.

 

[ShagDog]

Thanks again, jcp. The 2 backs gears look to be a non-removable part of a shaft. Am I seeing that correctly. In other words, if I look for a new back gear, will I need to find the whole assembly with both back gears and shaft???

 

[ShagDog]

Yes the V belt versions are great.
Looks well tooled.
Love the patina. Resist the urge to paint it.

The "patina" is just grime . I have no desire paint it. I am one for function over form.

 

[jcp]

The two gears are on a 'spool' or 'sleeve' and removable shaft runs through the 'spool' to mount them to the headstock. The original part number for the back gear appears to be AS361NK2. I have seen them repaired with brass or by welding. It's a bit tedious but doable.

 

[lordbeezer]

I would recommend replacing all wicks. If not doable now at least the spindle wicks.