Jim's truly simple ball turning tool

[Rex Walters]

Just a note that I just published the third and final part of the ball turner build notes.

(I’ve gotta stop typing markdown for these posts!)

I'm really glad I built mine. I expect I'll be putting ball handles on darn near everything going forward.

 

[Shotgun]

Heh, it just popped in my head.
Put some sort of lock to keep the puck from turning, and you have an instant tangential turning tool.
Mission creep?

 

[Rex Walters]

Mission creep?

Maybe, but it doesn’t seem crazy. Might save having to put the tool post back on when tapering the shaft of a lever with a ball end.

I’ll probably post one more blog entry about turning ball ends for handles and levers. The workholding gets interesting for Quorn-style levers with a ball at each end and a tapered shaft between them.

Facing the angled flat on the larger ball can’t be done with a tangential tool, though. You need something that can stick out horizontally to clear the spinning small end of the lever.

 

[Shotgun]

Thinking about this instead of what I should be thinking about, I think all you'd need is a reamed hole that goes through the puck, and not quite through the base. Then just drop in a dowel.

 

[Janderso]

Rex,
Maybe I missed it.
How are you locking the T body into the T-slot?
I’m thinking a simple 1/2” thick top strap bolted into the center of the T body.
So far so good. Working on the one piece T block now.
I have a 5 degree back rake on the carbide.

 

[Rex Walters]

How are you locking the T body into the T-slot?

The cap screws (or set screws) through the tee-slot body press against the bottom of the slot. This raises the tee-slot base against the top ledges of the slot, locking it in place.

Note: if you use a strap, the thickness of the tee-slot base must be thinner than the slot in the compound. With a strap/top-piece, you're clamping against the top ledges. As designed, the force against the ledges is unidirectional. If you gorilla the screws, you could damage the compound. A strap/clamping-piece on top is arguably better, but unnecessary in my opinion. You'll need to ensure the puck handle clears if you use a clamp.

Looking good!

 

[Janderso]

Just a note that I just published the third and final part of the ball turner build notes.

(I’ve gotta stop typing markdown for these posts!)

I'm really glad I built mine. I expect I'll be putting ball handles on darn near everything going forward.

View attachment 456223

I see you have one puck per radius size. I’m planning on two per puck at some point. Any issues with that?

 

[Rex Walters]

two per puck at some point. Any issues

Nope.

Jim has four on some of his. I just wanted room to label the inner and outer radii.


The other advantage of one per puck is that I can leave the cutter inserted and at center height at all times. You can't have more than one cutter mounted at a time if you're making balls (vs. using the OR to turn concavities).

 

[Janderso]

Now I have to fashion a hold down then I believe I am ready to try her out.
The top strap shown should work??
The T body has about .002” clearance. It’s snug but slides smooth.
The pilot pin has .0015” clearance.

 

[WobblyHand]

Now I have to fashion a hold down then I believe I am ready to try her out.
The top strap shown should work??
The T body has about .002” clearance. It’s snug but slides smooth.
The pilot pin has .0015” clearance.

If it was me, (and it will be in the future) I'd go with Rex's approach, or add another clamp or two. That looks like there could be a bit of chatter or vibration due to the end not being clamped near the puck. Clamp seems small and far away, but that's only my opinion. One could make a big plate that covered the lip of the compound over the piece and have a stud coming up, and clamping it with a nut, similar to a QCTP compound nut, but using a couple of flat ended screws is probably a lot easier.