I need/want an Arbor press

I have not either, but I thought that you add shims behind the broach to get it to the proper depth, not a full cut at once....
 
A 3 ton will broach up to1/2 " easily . We have one in my shop .
 
I have not either, but I thought that you add shims behind the broach to get it to the proper depth, not a full cut at once....
That is correct , and plenty of oil is needed .
 
Vtcnc , I was thinking what I might come across as in my hobby shop, 1/2” keyway ? There’s a 3 ton KRW 37-N on Marketplace for $100 ,
 
Vtcnc , I was thinking what I might come across as in my hobby shop, 1/2” keyway ? There’s a 3 ton KRW 37-N on Marketplace for $100 ,
As others have also indicated, assuming you have the throat depth, 3 ton should be plenty with oil and shims. Kind of standard procedure really. $100 for a 3-ton seems very reasonable.
 
I have the 11 3/4" broaches, and used Dakes are 900 bucks:oops:
I’ve been sharpening chipper blades on my SG for my neighbors brother.
When I went to look at the Monarch they were selling I noticed this beautiful old Dake arbor press.
Gary told me his brother wanted to give me the Dake out of appreciation.
They are in their late 70’s and are trying to clean up their shop.
I am very excited about it.
Pics to come. It’s at least a 3 ton.
Sometimes you just get lucky.
 
I have broached a bunch of keyways making components for the horizontal mill, up to 3/8” in steel, using the 20 ton HF press. In my humble opinion you would have to be a careless idiot to hurt yourself or your broach.

The problem with one or three ton presses, as noted above, is the throat height is way too short for most anything I’ve wanted to broach. Pressing bearings, small press fits, maybe, but I’ve made enough fixtures, pins and dies that the HF works for small delicate stuff also.
 
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A 3 ton will broach up to1/2 " easily . We have one in my shop .
I would agree with the 3 ton size for most broaching. I have a 3 to Greenerd and it works fine up to 1/2" which is all the larger i have anyway. It's nice to have a ratchet as opposed to the full rotating lever. I would also suggest a deep throat model.

This is the one I've had for over 20 years. I traded an old Toro lawnmower for it.
 

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The amount of pressure is adjusted by how much increase from the previous shim behind the broach is. If you are taking a thicker cut, then more pressure is required. If the shim is is a very small increase from the previous shim, then the pressure is less. As long as you don't get greedy with your cuts, the pressure will be low. This is true whether you are using a hydraulic or not. Alignment is important, if the broach is "cocked", then pressure will be sky-high, even with a small cut.

If you have a lathe, you can always use it to do a one-tooth shaper action, and avoid expensive broach sets and arbor press. This is really only reasonable if you are making one-off parts, or VERY small batches. If you are doing production, then a broach, or a REAL shaper is the way to go.
 
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