How To Hold It?

Have you thought of bolting your wheel to a faceplate? (If you have one.) A faceplate normally has at least four slotted holes and you secure the wheel to the faceplate using bolts and flat bar or large washers. You will need to use a DTI to adjust the wheel to centre. That's how I would do it. Geoffrey.
 
The expanding arbor sounds like a useful item! Off to the shop!
 
I needed to hold an item by the inside and build an expanding arbor by turning the OD, drilling and tapping a hole for a pipe plug and slitting the turned part. Pipe threads are 3/4" to the foot taper so it made to thing grow just enough to hold my part and I had all the things I needed to make it right there in the shop. Yes, it might wear out quickly but it was a two or three use tool. And all it cost me a little time. I've used the idea a couple more times since and it's a winner every time. Simple and fast for almost free, now your talking.........I keep bull plugs in all the common pipe sizes in a special place in the tool chest so I don't even have to go across the shop to find one, now is that being lazy or resourceful?
 
How about a piece like tomw shows with a pin to drive the spokes and the wheel can be held tight to the chuck with the tailstock.

David
 
Ebel440 said:
Just make an expanding arbor put a piece of round metal in the lathe a little larger then the Id. Drill and tap and countersink the end for a socket head screw. Make a grove at the base of it to allow the mandrel to expand. Then take it out and cut a few slits lengthwise. Put it back in cut the od to match the part. Put a screw in and your done. Put the part on and put in screw and tighten.
Click to expand...
Ebel440, or any "pros" Please help me picture this method. "Make a grove at the base of it to allow the mandrel to expand". Where is "the base of it" ? "Put a screw in and your done", I assume the screw is the same size and pitch that you tapped the end for, so what makes the round bar/mandrel expand without the tapped hole or screw being tapered ? And, if it does expand, won't the screw threads just strip out when it expands ? Please note, This novice is not questioning your knowledge, Just wanting to understand how to make an expanding mandrel before I get proficient at cutting tapered threads. Thanks, JR49
 
I have a box full of arbors with threads on one end. Spacers take up the slop if the part isn't wide enough for the arbor...Bob
 
"Make a grove at the base of it to allow the mandrel to expand".

I would have said, make a series of slits, parallel the axis, dividing the arbor into quadrants.

"Put a screw in and your done"

Assuming a flat head screw, the conic section of the flat head would expand the mandrel.

It's to be understood that the mounting surface (diameter) would have been to size and only needed expanded a couple of thousandths to be tight, so it wouldn't strip the threads.
 
Usually the threads tapped for such a screw are done with a taper tap, and kept fairly shallow. Then no matter what kind of screw you put in, when it hits the tapered part of the tapped hole, it forces the OD apart because of the splits.

I have used this "spud" method in production many, many times and it works great.

My concern in this case would be the tendency for the ring to "sing" or chatter. I would opt to hold it closer to the OD if possible. The spud idea is worth a try though.
 
Great ideas guys, thanks!

Here is my interpretation of the internal threaded expanding arbor. I taped it full depth of the 5/16-18 tap and put a champher on the socket head to match the cone in the end of the arbor.

image.jpg image.jpg
 
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