How big of a cut 9x20 import

Cutting fluids are a must with steel unless you are a real masochist LOL
 
markba633csi said:
Cutting fluids are a must with steel unless you are a real masochist LOL
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I do a lot turning with without any type of coolant.
If doing welding and use coolant you clean off the oils before welding.

Today when I use oil I just use a soldering brush and apply a small amount. It keeps everything clearer I also do a lot turning A36 steel it is gummy steel and some times needs help. If Turing 12L14 I can do all machining without coolant.

Dave
 
Smithdoor said:
I do a lot turning with without any type of coolant.
If doing welding and use coolant you clean off the oils before welding.

Today when I use oil I just use a soldering brush and apply a small amount. It keeps everything clearer I also do a lot turning A36 steel it is gummy steel and some times needs help. If Turing 12L14 I can do all machining without coolant.

Dave
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I'm know you've mentioned what you have before (but I'm too absent minded to remember and too lazy to find the post! :grin:) but are you using a lathe with rigidity issues like the import mini/benchtop lathes?

If you're running a Monarch, then you might get away with a little less 'nannying' than those of us with relatively lightweight Chinese lathes. ;)
 
I’ve done 4140 on my 9x20. I made sure it was annealed and I didn’t use carbide tooling. I have a QCTP and an old HSS bit that seems to work on everything if sharpened and honed properly. For me the worst thing was if I got lazy and didn’t keep the bit sharp and let it get dull it seemed to get hot and to harden the material compounding problems. On 4140 I was doing .030“ DOC and 600rpm. On 1018 and 12L14 I can go .040-.050 DOC.
 
SouthernChap said:
If you're running a Monarch, then you might get away with a little less 'nannying' than those of us with relatively lightweight Chinese lathes. ;)
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I realize @SouthernChap is not the OP, but I'll throw out that I have a 3HP Monarch, not a 10EE though, and quite often I'm taking .025 DOC for roughing, which is .050 off the diameter, in a pass. As you get into heavier cuts you have to build skills in avoiding hot chips! ;)

I did start on a 10x22 with 1HP. If you're cutting .025 depth x .005 on 4140, that sounds decent to me. Of course some of the suggestions here will help tweak that. But overall, it takes time or HP to remove metal.
 
I’m new to the hobby. I see lots of reference to different steel specs, clearly the choice of material is dependent on the duty it needs to perforrm, but right now I’m just trying to get good surface finish and turn accurate diameters so what are the easier grades to turn? I’m also using brass and aluminum
 
737captain said:
what are the easier grades to turn?
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12L14 turns beautifully. It has a very small amount of lead in it. You can get great finishes. It is plenty strong enough for almost anything.
I've got a selection of O1 precision tool steel that is easy for me to turn. It comes annealed. I use it for anything that I want to harden after turning. Turns out that I can make simple 3 flute reamers to any size I want quick and easy using O1. It is also called silver steel by some people.
 
If you have any trouble finding the 12L14 Larry mentioned, 1215 is a lead free version of it and turns well too.
 
If you can't find it locally: Midweststeelsupply, onlinemetals, and many others have huge selections. But shipping$$!! There can be considerable differences in prices between suppliers. Midwestern has been cheaper but slower. McMaster has some selection, is more expensive and really fast shipping.
 
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