HF Alumiweld rods for joining AL sheet?

Ok I tigged this thing together after clampingit between a bunch of unistrut and weighing it down.

20210529_210047.jpg

I tacked it from the other side, 1/2" bead-lets, then flipped it and ran full beads along this side, 3-6" at a time

Any predictions what will happen in the morning when I release it? Will it jump up like a fake snake in a can or will it stay flat?
 
Nice. I'm betting relatively flat.
 
It looks to me like you got it!
Nice.

-brino
 
Results are in. It still warped, but not insurmountably. I think I can live with this. Once I bolt it down to the steel frame it goes on, I think it will flatten back out.
20210530_125605.jpg
 
Here's some lessons learned from the experience. Maybe some of you will benefit from my sharing...

1. Get about 30 TIG electrodes, sharpen all of them, and keep them at arms length. That way you don't have to make 30 trips back to the bench grinder for the 30 times you jab the filler into the electrode, or the electrode into the puddle. This is assuming you're as dextrously challenged as I am.

2. 6061 is prone to hot cracking, so when welding it your weld should have lots of filler (4043), more filler than parent metal. For sheets of this thickness the cuts should be beveled. I didn't bevel mine and learned the hard way. This is what my first welds looked like:

20210530_132857.jpg
It didn't help that I was laying on my belly across this criminally uncomfortable unistrut jig and therefore forced to use the torch with ON/OFF finger switch. Hot cracking can be minimized by using a foot pedal and tapering off the arc at the end so you don't get that divot - the divot is where the cracking starts.

Since I didn't know that about 6061 hot cracking I didn't know that I should've beveled this until it was too late. So what I did was just use way more filler than I normally would, and that seemed to be a good enough bandaid although my welds are now really tall and probably don't have very good penetration. Still, I think it will be good enough. This is what my welds looked like after I got my "process," eh... "perfected."
20210529_203230.jpg

3. Of course the usual: cleanliness, cleanliness, cleanliness. Have a dedicated grinder wheel, flap disk, wire wheel, and stainless wire brush labeled "for aluminum only." Wash joints and filler rods with acetone right before welding. I like to think that if I did only one thing right, it was cleanliness.
 
@strantor

Thanks for the details of what worked for you.
I need to spend much more time on TIG before I even start to get comfortable.

-brino
 
@strantor

Thanks for the details of what worked for you.
I need to spend much more time on TIG before I even start to get comfortable.

-brino
I don't do it enough that I would ever get comfortable with it. Unless some radical change happens in my life, It's something that will always be a stressful (re)learning experience.
 
Another really important tip: preheat to reduce distortion.

Aluminum really doesnt give you any penetration into a butt joint (unlike steel and SST). If you scour down right before welding, -maybe-... bevelling is your friend.

Fixturing like you did was a good call!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
Another really important tip: preheat to reduce distortion.

Aluminum really doesnt give you any penetration into a butt joint (unlike steel and SST). If you scour down right before welding, -maybe-... bevelling is your friend.

Fixturing like you did was a good call!

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
Preheat? Never tried that. Do you use a propane torch? How how hot should you get it?

I'm wondering, if I knew to preheat, whether I would have done it or not. I had to lay across the workpiece and with how readily aluminum conducts heat, I may have been throwing myself onto a frying pan.
 
Any heating tool you have works. Getting up to boiling water temp is a big improvement. Yes, it would have notched up the suckage related to laying over the sheet. A piece of plywood on top of the unistrut would have helped, for future plsns... It also makes it feel more like welding on steel/sst: not so crazy many amps needed.
Just dont get too close to the tempering temperature.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 
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