One advantage to building your own v-block for a rifle action is you can make it the length you need, which makes aligning things easier. If you make the v off center, you can clamp it to the table on the "wide" side, aligned to the machine. The action can be clamped to the block from the table on the "narrow " side, and therefore to the machine-and be repositioned if required. In this case one may be better than two.
The tilt the head 45 degree method is best. And best if you tilt left/right with the direction of cut into the column - less deflection than along the length of the table. The slot at the bottom of a v-block is to hold square stock - you probably don't care for a rifle action. As suggested by others, if you need the bottom clearance, add it with a small diameter end mill.
On the other hand...special tooling is better for special jobs. Buying v- blocks gives you flexibility for other jobs later. In your case it might be to support the action on one end, the installed barrel (with shims to correct the height difference) on the other end to drill a hole for a front sight. All depends on how often you do an operation, plus the whole coolness factor thing. Of course, since I'm spending your money-do both.
The tilt the head 45 degree method is best. And best if you tilt left/right with the direction of cut into the column - less deflection than along the length of the table. The slot at the bottom of a v-block is to hold square stock - you probably don't care for a rifle action. As suggested by others, if you need the bottom clearance, add it with a small diameter end mill.
On the other hand...special tooling is better for special jobs. Buying v- blocks gives you flexibility for other jobs later. In your case it might be to support the action on one end, the installed barrel (with shims to correct the height difference) on the other end to drill a hole for a front sight. All depends on how often you do an operation, plus the whole coolness factor thing. Of course, since I'm spending your money-do both.
