Help me spend some money please

killswitch505

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okay guys i want to make some 3"x3" V-blocks ranging in length. Please forgive my ignorance as I'm learning as I go and don't want to waste any money on the wrong tooling. From the research I've done looks like HSS silting saw is the best way to go about this. I'm thinking 4" x 1/8"? so I'm looking at the good ol grizzly catalog. the arbor I'm seeing is a step up 1/2-1" seems like it could be pretty versatile being able handle a range of saws but From what I'm seeing most saws have a 1" arbor. would it be better to just get a 1" arbor?
 
I would use some roughing end mills and create the v, set the block at 45, or tilt your head to 45, then use the end mill to cut it out. The slitting saw would not necessarily be accurate.
After roughing to shape finish with a 2,3 or 4 flute end mill.

That's what I would do.
 
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It's an enco 105-1145
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it has a high and a low each having a high medium and low speed I can't find much info on the machine
 
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Woodchucker thank you for the reply that was my initial thought. I other than this forum and YouTube I don't really have anyone's brain to pick. Heck I don't even know terminology of what I'm trying to do half the time to google how to do it.
 
In regards to the slitting saw arbor, I'm personally not a fan of those stepped arbors. I would recommend just getting a 1" arbor or make your own. 1" hole is pretty common & is what I usually by, cover most all of my needs.

Arbors are not hard to make (if you have a lathe). Commercially available ones are pretty expensive, hardened & ground, and even the expensive ones will still have noticeable radial runout (not really that important though but axial runout is) .

I have an import 1" arbor but I got it for cheap on ebay. It's been working fine for me but I'm still planning on making some more of my own in the future.
 
I cannot find a manual online either, or speeds information. Slitting saws can get really cranky if they are not turning the right speed and advancing the correct feed for the cutter diameter and the number of teeth. It can get ugly quickly, and having some numbers to get in the ballpark from the beginning usually makes the job go smoother. Dodging flying pieces of saw blades and workpiece is not really a lot of fun for most of us...

Edit: If nothing else, get a non contact tachometer from eBay direct from China for under $10. They work great!
 
Your mills head will tilt to 45degrees , I'd use endmills like woodpecker said , ruff it out close to your depth , then switch out to a fly cutter . If you don't have one it's a good project for later. Now if you have one set your mill on its slowest speed do your finish cuts with that . When you've done both sides , you should do half of the 45 then do the other. After there done , set your v block flat in the vise and mill a small slot in the bottom of your v , about 1/8" or close to it about 1/16 " deep. If you plan on making clamps then turn onto each side and cut 1/4" x 1/8 deep. If your making clamps ill need your sizes when done.
If you have a vertical bandsaw you can cut the ruff out of the v on that. About the best I can do to help here.
Your mill is a rongfu 40 made in Thailand look at grizzly line up for one copy like yours they carry and download a pdf free. Also I should have said start with squared metal which a fly cutter is designed for ease of.
 
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Google rung fu 40, RF-40, ect. Your mill is just a renamed Rung fu 40. a rung fu 45 is the same head, but on a square column base. Find several different brands, and see what the speeds are. There is also 12 speed versions floating around, they are the same head, but with a 2 speed motor on the top. I think Grizzly even has a version, that you can get the manual for.
 
The spindle speeds should be listed on the face plate to the left of the depth stop/scale. Is it unlegible?
 
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