Heavy 10 Restoration Work In Progress.

Thank you to the H-M staff for resolving this issue! Updates coming soon. Headstock re-shimmed, now .001" on each end with lift test. High speed for 10 minutes, no load, caps barely get warm.
 
Updates, and questions:

Read a comment by Woodtickgreg recently where he stated that the guy selling die cut shims for the SB10 headstock for $50 seemed reasonable. After the time and expense of making my own, I'd have to agree. Used one of the better old shims as a template, laid out the holes and traced it on 1/8" alum stock. Sandwiched 2 each .001, .002, .003, .005 and .010 shim blanks cut 7/8" wide between. Drilled 9/32" for the dowel pin and 7/16' for the bolt hole, then cut the hole stack with a coping saw. They turned out well, with only minor burrs on some of the thinner stock.
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Question. The lead screw guard that goes here. Does it in anyway support the lead screw, or is it just a sort of dust cover?
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Making chips! While making posts for a jig to make one good gearbox tumbler from two damages ones. I've come to find that single tumbler gear tumbler levers are simply not available without buying a complete gearbox. So I'm going to do -- properly -- what the previous owner tried to do. Details to follow.
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It's starting to look like a lathe. Found and fixed a little goof I made where the cross slide screw mounts on the taper attachment. Now have only .002" backlash in the cross slide.

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Looking good John, I made a chip cover for the telescoping X screw , keeps the swarf out
Ànd makes a small table
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The screw by the lever has a knob under it to follow the slot
I need to make a leed screw cover for it , thanks for reminding me.
 
Making progress, which at this point mainly involves parting with dollars to fit baby out with tooling. That includes: the correct tailstock, 3 jaw chuck, faceplate and milling attachment. Also getting baby "In Trim" while waiting for parts to arrive. The bed has been ground (appears to have been done correctly and well), so I had to shim the gearbox, bed rack and lead screw support. The milling attachment has really helped get things in the next gear. I've made a micrometer holder for carriage feed, and will be making various T-nuts for the compound slot. The photo shows stock I'm using to making a spindle spider. It is 12L14..... I'M IN LOVE! :love: This stuff machines beautifully! Not sure if it's hard enough, but if so, I might make parts for a collet draw bar hand wheel hub and forcing cone with it. Already have a threaded tube for collets, just need to fab the other end.

Still planning to repair the gearbox arm, (and actively searching one also). Got a pretty good idea on how to go about it, just bouncing it around in the ole' noggin until I'm ready.
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Coming along, a little at a time. Made a collet draw bar, thanks CraigB1960 and Andre for some helpful guidance. Ordered a Shars AXA toolpost and set of holders. Was a little hesitant to put any Chinese tooling on the lathe, but they actually seem pretty decent. Just couldn't justify the cost of Aloris at the moment. Already I can see what a great improvement this is. Very rigid. I'll never go back to a lantern type holder if I can avoid it. Finally, put an LED shoplight above the lathe. 4,000 lumen, 54 watts, WOW!!! I can actually see what I'm doing now. The difference compared to fluorescent is amazing. My eyes feel 10 years younger.
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