Heavy 10 5C drawbar

[tk1971]

When I bought my Heavy 10, it came with a lever drawbar system that was missing the sleeve and collets.

Since I brought the lathe home, I spent my time renovating it with a full disassembly, cleaning and installation of new felt.

I’m finally at the point to where I can can work on the collet system that came with it. No sooner than placing the order for a 5C sleeve (that was obviously missing), that I realized that I should’ve try mounting it to see if it’ll even fit my 10L first (I know… should have done this first). I jumped the gun because I assumed that the previous owner used the collet system with this lathe.

After trying to mount it, I’m pretty sure my lever drawbar isn’t the correct one for the 10L.

The only labeling on it just states “Big Mac Fullerton, CA, Mack Manes Enterprises, Inc.”.

The drawbar tube measures 22-1/4” (seemingly way too long). The tube appears to be the right diameter though.

I took it all apart and cleaned it up. I pressed the tube out and I think i can at least cut it down to make it fit. So I’m trying to find more info on the specs for the correct 5C system for my 10L, whether it be the lever or hand-wheel type, or whether I’m missing any additional parts. The drawbar tube also can’t be inserted until it’s flush with the left side of the spindle (the cover hits).

I’m thinking I can probably cut the tube down and machine the shoulder part to press the tube into it, in order to make a hand-wheel drawbar.

I found an old listing for a hand-wheel drawbar that supposedly has a p/n of HW-102 with a 11.5” tube length. Trying to confirm this.

Here are pics of what I have.











Meanwhile, the 5C sleeve is shipping and I’ll get it sometime next week.

Any videos on how to setup/use both types of drawbars?

Thanks.

 

[MrWhoopee]

Here are pics of my OEM collet actuator. Note the extended "snout" on the leadscrew reverse gear. The overall length of the entire collet closer assy. is 18.75, the exposed portion of the drawtube is 11.5".

 

[benmychree]

Unless you are working on many identical parts, a handlever closer is far from necessary, and the handwheel type is easier to change collets, possibly more convenient for small numbers of parts.

 

[MrWhoopee]

Unless you are working on many identical parts, a handlever closer is far from necessary, and the handwheel type is easier to change collets, possibly more convenient for small numbers of parts.

Having used both types, I prefer a lever-action. I believe the lever gives a mechanical advantage for better grip. If you have nothing, a handwheel is cheap and easy, but if you have a lever, it's worth the effort to make it work. I power the collet in and out, so no real difference.

I once spent a day running a batch of parts with a Sjogren spindle nose closer. My hands hurt when it was over and were still sore the next day.

 

[tk1971]

I just saw a video of someone (Halligan142) making their own hand-wheel drawbar.

Since my drawbar is too long, I think i can do something similar and attach a hand wheel to the tube, which will be cut to fit. I’ll need to make a sleeve with a 60 degree angle to engage the left end of the spindle.

By salvaging the tube from what I have, it’ll save me the trouble of making my own tube and threading it.

Can someone verify the outer diameter of their drawbar tube?

Thanks.

 

[SLK001]

Can someone verify the outer diameter of their drawbar tube?

The tube is a piece of DOM metal tube that is 1-3/8" in diameter.

 

[tk1971]

The tube is a piece of DOM metal tube that is 1-3/8" in diameter.

Thanks. One more question: The hand-wheel should be 4 - 6 inches?

 

[MrWhoopee]

Thanks. One more question: The hand-wheel should be 4 - 6 inches?

6 in. at least, you will need the leverage to get the collet tight enough.

Before you cannibalize that closer, you might look at selling it on eBay. It's worth more than the cost of the piece of tube.

 

[twhite]

6 in. at least, you will need the leverage to get the collet tight enough.

Before you cannabalize that closer, you might look at selling it on eBay. It's worth more than the cost of the piece of tube.

I agree. If I ou are not going to modify the entire closer to work. Sell it and have more than enough funds to make your own.

It is easy. I made hand wheel closers for my 3C collets on my Wards and SB9. It was only a few hours to make.


Cutting oil is my blood.

 

[tk1971]

Bought some metal: 1-3/8” OD X 0.156” wall A513-Type 5 DOM Tube, 2” & 3.25” round bar stock scraps, and a 6” iron handwheel.

I’m going to make a handwheel collet tube first. I faced and bored the tube today.





I ran out of hobby time today so I’ll thread it tomorrow.

As for the 3” bar stock, I think I can turn it down to 2.9” to fit the lever collet closer on one end and have a 60 degree taper on the other end to mate with the back end of the spindle. After that, the tube can be cut to size to allow it to work on my heavy 10. The bracket will likely be bolted to the gear cover.

This is where the 2.9” piece of metal will mate to.