Graduated Dials, and Stamping the #s

[8ntsane]

Hi Guys

I Think this is a problem for many of us. Doing the gaduated dials is one thing. I dont seem to have any problems in that dept. Where I have a problem is stamping the numbers. I have often wondered about the different methods.

How do you do this? Are the numbers coming out straight?

I have yet to find a really good way. I often thought of making a jig to align the stamps, but I would like to see what others have done to do a pro looking job.
I have my own make shift way, and Ill post that later.

If the stamp job is fouled the complete job looks bad!
OK guys, show me how its done!

Paul

 

[Hawkeye]

At the very least, a piece of angle iron supported over the dial will help with alignment. If possible, after stamping all of the numbers, take a very light turning cut over the dial to remove any raised metal. Obviously, you have to plan for this step when you scribe the markings, so you don't make them too shallow to see well. The surfacing pass makes the numbers look really crisp.

 

[Galileu]

Hi,

I think Mike's solution for this is very clever and should work fine; I haven't tried it myself, though. Look here: http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/number-stamp-holder-for-pillar-tool.html

José

 

[8ntsane]

I just took a few pics of what I have been using , and it works, but I feel that there is still a better way. The 1/4 and 5/16 square shank stamps I have are mounted in a boring bar, and left just loose enough, I can slide the stamp up to the work piece, and give it a hit.

The boring bar is held firm in the boring bar block of my axa QCTP. It works not bad, as I can centre things up pretty good. Using the boring bars to hold the stamps lets me snug the stamp down with the set screw, and it helps take up any slack that might be there, but still move forward on the hit.

My setup is not Ideal, but allows me to atleast stamp the dials. With this method, If the hit was too light, I can just slide the stamp back up to the work, and give it another light tap to ajust the depth. The depth can be another problem all on its own.

Ill have a look at the links posted above after I finish this post.












This is my back yard method so far. As said, certainly not Ideal, and Im looking for better ways

Paul

 

[8ntsane]

Hi,

I think Mike's solution for this is very clever and should work fine; I haven't tried it myself, though. Look here: http://mikesworkshop.weebly.com/number-stamp-holder-for-pillar-tool.html

José

Thanks for the link Jose
Im going to look that over real good.

Paul

 

[Tom Griffin]

Paul,

I've been meaning to try my 3D pantograph for engraving numbers and text. I suspect it would work quite well and with the templates laid over an appropriately curved surface the numbers could even wrap around the dials. A fellow copied my design over on HSM just for engraving and I'm anxiously waiting to see how it works for him. I also have some engraving to do on the top of the rifle I'm building and will let you know how it turns out.

Tom

 

[churchjw]

I just took a few pics of what I have been using , and it works, but I feel that there is still a better way. The 1/4 and 5/16 square shank stamps I have are mounted in a boring bar, and left just loose enough, I can slide the stamp up to the work piece, and give it a hit.

The boring bar is held firm in the boring bar block of my axa QCTP. It works not bad, as I can centre things up pretty good. Using the boring bars to hold the stamps lets me snug the stamp down with the set screw, and it helps take up any slack that might be there, but still move forward on the hit.

My setup is not Ideal, but allows me to atleast stamp the dials. With this method, If the hit was too light, I can just slide the stamp back up to the work, and give it another light tap to ajust the depth. The depth can be another problem all on its own.

Ill have a look at the links posted above after I finish this post.

This is my back yard method so far. As said, certainly not Ideal, and Im looking for better ways

Paul

That is brilliant. This idea goes in things to remember book. Thanks for posting.

Jeff

 

[Tony Wells]

Just a note of caution. The impact of a stamp might have a detrimental effect on your spindle bearings if they are not plain bearings. I do like the fine adjustment capability of that method though. I have yet to see a stamp set that has all the characters in the same location relative to the shank, and that helps overcome that.

I believe that George Wilson has all but perfected the stamping game. I'd like to hear from him on this.

Years ago, I designed an embosser that used pie shaped segment style "stamps" in a wheel that could be altered to suit. I used Mathews brand for that, and they do seem to make some pretty good products.

I have stamped countless parts for the oilfield in the recessed band for the purpose. Thousands. I can tell you that after a lot of practice, some people get a feel for it and do some work that looks machine embossed. I'm not one of them. I use an ECE unit for marking things if I want any sort of predictable results. It's not as deep as a steel stamp, but is permanent.

 

[8ntsane]

Just a note of caution. The impact of a stamp might have a detrimental effect on your spindle bearings if they are not plain bearings. I do like the fine adjustment capability of that method though. I have yet to see a stamp set that has all the characters in the same location relative to the shank, and that helps overcome that.

I believe that George Wilson has all but perfected the stamping game. I'd like to hear from him on this.

Years ago, I designed an embosser that used pie shaped segment style "stamps" in a wheel that could be altered to suit. I used Mathews brand for that, and they do seem to make some pretty good products.

I have stamped countless parts for the oilfield in the recessed band for the purpose. Thousands. I can tell you that after a lot of practice, some people get a feel for it and do some work that looks machine embossed. I'm not one of them. I use an ECE unit for marking things if I want any sort of predictable results. It's not as deep as a steel stamp, but is permanent.

Tony

I do realize that for many guys stamping a part held in the lathe chuck on a small light duty machine, probably could cause damage. i do it on mine, and feel Im not hurting the machines bearings. I allways make sure when ever I do make a dial, its not a hard steel. The cheapo stamp sets I use couldnt handle it.

Seems there are several problems that come up when stamping. Getting the proper depth is one of them. Getting a cheap stamp set with the whole set centred to the shank, yep mine arnt dead on either. Thats when stamping problems begin. Off centre stamps cause the stamp to imprint unevenly. Because of the curved surface, Ive had a 0 turn out like a C.

Lots of reasons to why, some we can deal with more easly than others. Ive never had a good set of stamps, and wouldnt know if a good set came centred to the shank, the whole set that is. While the set up Ive been using does work, Its allways hard to do a stamping job, and when finished you can look it over and say , perfect! I havnt been able to do that yet. Allways a flaw on a few things.

You have done many stamping jobs, and you still dont feel they are as good as they should be. Maybe perfection will never come for me either. Out of the methods Ive tried, what Im doing now seems to be the best so far. I do admit, a crappy set of stamps makes the job really drag on. Constant reajustments for off centred #s to the shanks.

Making new dials isnt something I do often, just would like to see a better job when stamping them. Nothing is worse than getting to that final part of the job, and being dissappointed!

Paul

 

[Tony Wells]

I've often wondered if it would be worthwhile to do some selective machining to center the character on a set. It might not be too bad to improve a set to an acceptable level, even without going to the trouble of say, an optical comparator to make sure. One thought I've had, but never gone to the trouble is to set up a straightedge as a reference, then go through and stamp one of each character, then measure with calipers how much should be removed from the reference side to even them up.