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Getting the new knee mill off the pallet
- Thread starter Pcmaker
- Start date
- Joined
- May 3, 2017
- Messages
- 1,997
Strikes me that without different lift equipment, the suggestions by lis2323 (Post #4) and Danengineering (Post #5) are the most logical. But you still have some other variables to consider:
First - It's a given that the footprint of your hoist is not larger than the base of the pallet. Are you SURE that it's bigger than the base of the mill? If not, you won't be able to set it down on the shop floor.
Second - And as addertooth noted (Post #7), that strategy is still constrained by the lift capacity of your one-ton hoist. You need enough clearance in its footprint to allow you to lift from at least the 1,500 lb. position.
Third - How far will you need to move it? If you only need to reposition it in your garage, I would think the safest method, given your equipment constraints, would be to remove it from the pallet BEFORE rolling it into position and with as little movement as possible. Then use a couple of sections of pipe or round rod to roll it into its permanent resting place. I have easily moved two mills all the way across my shop that way, and positioned them virtually exactly where I wanted them. You'll need to make yourself a long-handled pry bar with a cleat on the end to insert/remove the pipe, but that's pretty easy, and you can use material that can be re-purposed. That method is very safe. You're never more than a fraction of an inch off the floor. All this, of course, is predicated on the assumption you're moving across a level floor with no steps or other obstacles. I seem to recall you can find several videos on youtube that demonstrate this approach in practice. If you're interested, I can send you a picture of the pry bar I made. (I think I still have it.) I made mine with a long handle which makes it very easy to tilt.
Fourth - Can you buy or rent a larger capacity engine hoist with a larger footprint? That would likely resolve all your challenges.
Regards,
Terry
First - It's a given that the footprint of your hoist is not larger than the base of the pallet. Are you SURE that it's bigger than the base of the mill? If not, you won't be able to set it down on the shop floor.
Second - And as addertooth noted (Post #7), that strategy is still constrained by the lift capacity of your one-ton hoist. You need enough clearance in its footprint to allow you to lift from at least the 1,500 lb. position.
Third - How far will you need to move it? If you only need to reposition it in your garage, I would think the safest method, given your equipment constraints, would be to remove it from the pallet BEFORE rolling it into position and with as little movement as possible. Then use a couple of sections of pipe or round rod to roll it into its permanent resting place. I have easily moved two mills all the way across my shop that way, and positioned them virtually exactly where I wanted them. You'll need to make yourself a long-handled pry bar with a cleat on the end to insert/remove the pipe, but that's pretty easy, and you can use material that can be re-purposed. That method is very safe. You're never more than a fraction of an inch off the floor. All this, of course, is predicated on the assumption you're moving across a level floor with no steps or other obstacles. I seem to recall you can find several videos on youtube that demonstrate this approach in practice. If you're interested, I can send you a picture of the pry bar I made. (I think I still have it.) I made mine with a long handle which makes it very easy to tilt.
Fourth - Can you buy or rent a larger capacity engine hoist with a larger footprint? That would likely resolve all your challenges.
Regards,
Terry
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2015
- Messages
- 407
Not sure if this helps, but....
Crow Bar + Toe Jack. Lift one corner of the pallet 1/2", place a block under that corner, then repeat the process on all 4 corners until the hoist legs fit underneath the pallet.
Worked for me for an 1800 lb. lathe.
Crow Bar + Toe Jack. Lift one corner of the pallet 1/2", place a block under that corner, then repeat the process on all 4 corners until the hoist legs fit underneath the pallet.
Worked for me for an 1800 lb. lathe.
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
- Messages
- 6,602
The "Egyptian method" of toe jack, 60" pry bar, and lots of wood blocks is a good way to do it. I don't know if I'd be so keen on trying an engine hoist again, I damn near flipped a trailer end over end onto my shop roof when this totally preventable mishap occurred. Hey, I saw people on YouTube doing it, so it must work!
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2014
- Messages
- 3,590
Lots of wood blocks as @pontiac428 mentions above.
6x6's, 2x6's 2x4's, some 3/4" plywood comes in handy also.
(1) Post Hole Digger and Tamping Bar (shown below)
I use one to move all my machines, from the Bridgeport, the Index to the Drill Press. Low cost 'Johnson' bar.
(Also it looks like there are two large holes in the base of the mill about 12" up. Wonder if a large pipe would fit thru them.)
Taking it one end at time, slow and easy.
Support it in the middle front with 2x6's getting the corners up, and leaving the back side resting securely on the pallet.
Cut away the pallet under the corners for a couple of 6x6's. Lower front onto the 6x6's, nice and firmly rested.
Repeat at the rear.
Then incrementally lower each end no more than 1" or so. I use a lot of 3/4" plywood cutoffs.
Get it down on pipe on the floor and scoot into position.
It's time consuming but it works.
6x6's, 2x6's 2x4's, some 3/4" plywood comes in handy also.
(1) Post Hole Digger and Tamping Bar (shown below)
I use one to move all my machines, from the Bridgeport, the Index to the Drill Press. Low cost 'Johnson' bar.
(Also it looks like there are two large holes in the base of the mill about 12" up. Wonder if a large pipe would fit thru them.)
Taking it one end at time, slow and easy.
Support it in the middle front with 2x6's getting the corners up, and leaving the back side resting securely on the pallet.
Cut away the pallet under the corners for a couple of 6x6's. Lower front onto the 6x6's, nice and firmly rested.
Repeat at the rear.
Then incrementally lower each end no more than 1" or so. I use a lot of 3/4" plywood cutoffs.
Get it down on pipe on the floor and scoot into position.
It's time consuming but it works.
- Joined
- May 3, 2017
- Messages
- 1,997
PCMaker,
If you zoom in on Ted's Post #14, you'll notice that he has pipe between the mill's base and the floor (looks to be about 1"). That's a good illustration of what I mentioned above. Rolling around in the shop is very easy with pipe or solid round.
Also, John's Post #15 shows you exactly what can happen if you use an undersized hoist. Give a lot of thought about using your hoist on that mill.
If you can't get the appropriate equipment, you can build a gantry as suggested above, or use John's (Post #15) and Dan's (Post #16) method. Slower, but definitely safer than your hoist.
Also, no one's mentioned it, but to the extent you're able to procure it, a couple of friends or relatives with strong backs comes in mighty handy.
Regards
If you zoom in on Ted's Post #14, you'll notice that he has pipe between the mill's base and the floor (looks to be about 1"). That's a good illustration of what I mentioned above. Rolling around in the shop is very easy with pipe or solid round.
Also, John's Post #15 shows you exactly what can happen if you use an undersized hoist. Give a lot of thought about using your hoist on that mill.
If you can't get the appropriate equipment, you can build a gantry as suggested above, or use John's (Post #15) and Dan's (Post #16) method. Slower, but definitely safer than your hoist.
Also, no one's mentioned it, but to the extent you're able to procure it, a couple of friends or relatives with strong backs comes in mighty handy.
Regards
- Joined
- May 3, 2017
- Messages
- 1,997
Wise choice.
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2020
- Messages
- 765
smart move