Gear drive Chinese Mill 3 phase

Ok, I replaced the Transformer and now it pulls in and everything works. The power up and down still only works if the spindle is running, I don't know if its supposed to be like that or not, But I'm okay with that.

The DRO is still not working, I took the display off and plugged it into my TOAUTO DRO cord and the display works, So its a wiring issue, Here is how its wired the way it was when I got it.

Yellow is wire nutted to ground

Blue is wired into one of the 3 ph wires coming from converter

Brown is wired into another of the 3ph wires coming from converter

This does not make sense to me, 110 should be a Hot, A common, Which is also a ground and a Ground wire, So 2 grounds and a hot? Am I correct to say this?
 
Most older DRO displays are 110/120VAC, so a neutral (blue wire) and L1 (brown wire), ground is separate and would typically be green/yellow. Some displays will have a switch on the back for switching to 220/230VAC, and also requires changing the fuse size to one with 1/2 the current. If your display is 120VAC and it is being connected with 230VAC, surprising it has caused it to fail. You cannot use a ground as a neutral, they must be separate. Replace the cord and plug it into a 120VAC wall socket.
 
mksj said:
Most older DRO displays are 110/120VAC, so a neutral (blue wire) and L1 (brown wire), ground is separate and would typically be green/yellow. Some displays will have a switch on the back for switching to 220/230VAC, and also requires changing the fuse size to one with 1/2 the current. If your display is 120VAC and it is being connected with 230VAC, surprising it has caused it to fail. You cannot use a ground as a neutral, they must be separate. Replace the cord and plug it into a 120VAC wall socket.
Click to expand...
Ok, When I unhook the DRO wiring the mill doesn't work, Now I am really cornfused?
 
mksj said:
Most older DRO displays are 110/120VAC, so a neutral (blue wire) and L1 (brown wire), ground is separate and would typically be green/yellow. Some displays will have a switch on the back for switching to 220/230VAC, and also requires changing the fuse size to one with 1/2 the current. If your display is 120VAC and it is being connected with 230VAC, surprising it has caused it to fail. You cannot use a ground as a neutral, they must be separate. Replace the cord and plug it into a 120VAC wall socket.
Click to expand...
Thank you for clarifying the color code for the DRO wiring.
 
DRO connecting to the power should be completely independent, if it is just a standard DRO unit and does not control any of the mill functions. Maybe take some pictures of the front and back and post. Most DRO's will have a standard IEC plug connector for power to it, it should just disconnect from the back if it is not hardwired to the DRO. The IEC and standard wall plug cables are pretty standard for many years and readily available.
 
Well, The DRO had some lights come on when I was doing all of this, But it's Kentucky Freakin Fried! The good thing is, With everyone's help, I have got the mill working properly now. I am just going to get another TOAUTO display and now that I learned how to change the pinout by soldering the wires on the right pins on the DB-9 connectors.

I am also going to disconnect the power feed from the wiring in the cabinet and wire a 110 plug onto it, Just to take one more thing away from the Static Converter, It doesn't like all of this stuff hooked up to it at all and makes a lot of weird noises when you try running the power feed while the spindle is running. I am learning stuff here, It definitely had me scratching my Knutz, Thank you for your patience!
 
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