Filing a metal block to true squareness

If you hate to file things, like I do, you might look for a die filer. I found a Butterfly filer awhile ago and man, that is a great tool. I found a machine file collection on eBay of 17 files, various shapes and coarseness, at about $10 per file. I can also use a cutoff hacksaw blade for a metal bandsaw substitute. It’s easy to do very precise work because you can see the file and a scribe line at the same time, and the file stays completely perpendicular to the table.

It’s turned around my whole poor attitude toward filing, maybe not completely 180 degrees, but at least 160 degrees.
I enjoy filing but i forgot to get a fine file small file for this practice work so had to use sandpapers with a piece of steel that i filed flat and verified with a straight edge
 
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More than anything I think this exercise is teaching appreciation. Appreciation of those who did precision work without machines so you could make the precision machines to do precision work. Foundational appreciation is not always taught because it's easy to get by without it. We have gotten used to using technology without an appreciation of what it takes to make it and the underlying knowledge of how precision makes it function. Why would you when everything is based upon a disposable world where speed of production is the goal not craftsmanship.

Koi I have to say working that small would drive me crazy because it would be hard to hold onto. I learned the hard way when I trued up a stone I was using to remove burrs the friction would tend to make the leading edge of the work dig in and I'd end up with a domed center. I used sandpaper that was sticky backed, stuck to a small granite plate to do the final finish on the parts I was doing. I had to get used to removing material very slowly. Trading speed for precision. I would be tempted to make a fixture with rollers that would hold the work and help keep the leading edge from digging in.
Sat in my parents office and did the thing air conditioned by the way should'nt affect the precision or would it? Im not dealing with 0.001mm precision shouldnt be a problem and yeah i lear'nt a thing measure measure and measure.
 
I probably could not buy a “flat“ 1” cube, much less file it
Maybe i dont have any machine tool.I did plan to buy it a year ago but decided to save up ad get the most precise mill and lathe i can get cuz i do want to be scraping all day though but i do plan to learn it in the future but first filing to fit and precise geometry is my priority.
 
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Koi,

a little off topic, but where in Malaysia?? I worked there for 3 months, in KL and Kauntan
 
Got my vernier back and its lockdown so i decided to go back and work on the steel block to make it even parallel.This time i got some needle files as well .After filing the high side of the steel block but still got the reading between 8.22mm and 8.20mm and at some spot the line on the vernier does not line up instead between the 0.22mm and 0.20 line any trick to work with that or should i just invest or make a mini hand scraper to deal with the spot .
 

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For a larger spot, I have often been able to use the edge of a file like a scraper, but 0.02mm (0.007 in?) is pretty small. You should make a small scraper, perhaps from a large nail or a small lathe toolbit. Just has to be flat across, and sharp enough for the one use. Make a wooden handle for it as you do not want to be using a hammer on the scraper.
 
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For a larger spot, I have often been able to use the edge of a file like a scraper, but 0.02mm (0.007 in?) is pretty small. You should make a small scraper, perhaps from a large nail or a small lathe toolbit. Just has to be flat across, and sharp enough for the one use. Make a wooden handle for it as you do not want to be using a hammer on the scraper.
What a coincidence i have one acquired from the technical school im in. the tool bit is has a thickness about 1.5cm by 1.5 cm .Since im scraoing steel should i grind a positive angle with a under bevel for it.learnt this from a youtuber called an engineer's finding.
 
There are better people to advise you on scraping (see the many threads on this forum). My understanding is that you use a 20-30 degree angle from the horizontal, and you are taking very little off (not digging the tool into the work). I'd say it is like shoveling snow, but you probably don't do a lot of that in Malaysia, so perhaps more like scraping clean a griddle or grill. Check out "Forrest Addy's Take on Scraping" .

This photo may interest you. I obtained a hardware cabinet and some boxes of tools from a local guy who had a deft hand with a grinder. Many of his tools were shop-made from lathe tool bits, old drills, old end mills, screwdrivers, you name it. Here are a few small chisels I found among the collection. That former drill bit likely is a scraper. I can't tell if those two on the right were originally lathe tool bits, or punches that found a second calling.

shopmade_chisels_scrapers.png
 
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There are better people to advise you on scraping (see the many threads on this forum). My understanding is that you use a 20-30 degree angle from the horizontal, and you are taking very little off (not digging the tool into the work). I'd say it is like shoveling snow, but you probably don't do a lot of that in Malaysia, so perhaps more like scraping clean a griddle or grill. Check out "Forrest Addy's Take on Scraping" .

This photo may interest you. I obtained a hardware cabinet and some boxes of tools from a local guy who had a deft hand with a grinder. Many of his tools were shop-made from lathe tool bits, old drills, old end mills, screwdrivers, you name it. Here are a few small chisels I found among the collection. That former drill bit likely is a scraper. I can't tell if those two on the right were originally lathe tool bits, or punches that found a second calling.

View attachment 324571
Btw what does points per square inch mean? what does it have to do with flatness i thought you scrape off the high spot that has been indicated by spotting blue.
 
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