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Family Room As Workshop
- Thread starter 65Cobra427SC
- Start date
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- May 18, 2015
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- 231
I have some catching up to do here... sorry for the delay. Posting a few more pics of the now painted far wall area which is a huge improvement from before. Not sure how much the pictures really show it, but I couldn't be happier. You can also get a glimpse of the new lights I installed. Between the gloss paint, light colors and new lighting it's almost too bright in there... might need tinted goggles, ha.
TakeDeadAim, thanks for your post. In fact part of the reason I'm behind on the room is due to the flooring and reading what you did. So I did more research on my own and decided that was a good move for a couple reasons... it's inexpensive... easy to apply... beneficial for the concrete... never needs removed... and you can always apply any type of flooring over it at any time. Sounds as though your installer let it pool in areas which is really the only precaution you have to take during the application, but glad you got that straightened out. I purchased two Ghostseal products .. their LITHI-TEK 4500 which is their penetrating densifier and their SILOXA-TEK 8500 PLUS OIL REPEL which is their penetrating sealer with an oil repellent. I also plan to hold off on the Tuff Seal tiles because I may not even need them.
Well, since I'm passing on the tiles, I guess I do need mats... and apparently I need ones used in horse stalls. Hmmm, thanks for the suggestions??? No problem but what makes them so special and are they comfortable? Oh, and where can I get them?
TakeDeadAim, thanks for your post. In fact part of the reason I'm behind on the room is due to the flooring and reading what you did. So I did more research on my own and decided that was a good move for a couple reasons... it's inexpensive... easy to apply... beneficial for the concrete... never needs removed... and you can always apply any type of flooring over it at any time. Sounds as though your installer let it pool in areas which is really the only precaution you have to take during the application, but glad you got that straightened out. I purchased two Ghostseal products .. their LITHI-TEK 4500 which is their penetrating densifier and their SILOXA-TEK 8500 PLUS OIL REPEL which is their penetrating sealer with an oil repellent. I also plan to hold off on the Tuff Seal tiles because I may not even need them.
Well, since I'm passing on the tiles, I guess I do need mats... and apparently I need ones used in horse stalls. Hmmm, thanks for the suggestions??? No problem but what makes them so special and are they comfortable? Oh, and where can I get them?
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Horse stall mats are normally available at your local feed & seed or farm supply. They are an inch thick, really tough, do not seem to be bothered by oil. A bit harder than some of the other mats available, but it beats the heck out of concrete. They are normally 4x6 foot. I got mine when they were on sale for $35 each. I've had mine in front of the lathe and mill for the last 8 years and they are still going strong.
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Are these essentially rubber mats? I'm looking at Tractor Supply Co "online" which is real close to me and they have 4' x 6' "Rubber Mats" 3/4 inch thick for $39.99 and in stock. That's pretty cheap for such a large and thick mat. But several reviews had complaints that concern me... which is where I'm getting the following questions from... since these will be inside the house. Wondered if yours (a) have any sort of texture on the top (slippery), (b) have any sort of grooves on the bottom for air flow (mildew buildup), and (c) have an odor (since my shop is inside the house). Thanks.
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Mine are not textured exactly, but not glass smooth. I have not noted any problem with slipping, even with oil on them. There are no grooves but I have not seen any moisture when I have moved them for cleanup. No odor noted, but they are in a large shop with good ventilation. Since they are made of recycled rubber (tires I suspect), most of the new rubber smell should be long gone.
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- Jul 3, 2015
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And to whom are we speaking with now?
I figure if you just keep the carpet in there, in a few years the shavings will weigh a ton and you can get $.05 a pound for it. Not a bad deal.
The HVAC system is going to draw the rooms air back into the house via the return air, so odors and fumes will get into the house while it is running- just FYI.
I can't think of anything else that hasn't been mentioned.
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We are inseparable... speak to all and you speak to none... speak to one and you speak to all... or something along those lines 
Walter, good point on the HVAC so thanks for pointing that out. Actually there were no return air ducts downstairs at all when the house was built, but when I had the entire furnace/heat pump replaced, he added a return line in the downstairs hallway since the furnace was on the other side of that wall anyway. But I've considered closing that return line before because (a) it diminishes the effect of the return lines upstairs, and (b) I never open the vents downstairs... don't need to since the room is underground. So you comment just clinched that decision. Again, thanks for bringing it up.
Jim, thanks for the additional info on the mats. Sounds like these mats are pretty much identical to yours. I'll stop over there in the next day or so to take a look... and maybe a smell or two to see what I think. I also read other comments within the higher ratings and several said the odor will go away after a couple days but still suggested putting them elsewhere during that time because the odor was pretty bad.
Walter, good point on the HVAC so thanks for pointing that out. Actually there were no return air ducts downstairs at all when the house was built, but when I had the entire furnace/heat pump replaced, he added a return line in the downstairs hallway since the furnace was on the other side of that wall anyway. But I've considered closing that return line before because (a) it diminishes the effect of the return lines upstairs, and (b) I never open the vents downstairs... don't need to since the room is underground. So you comment just clinched that decision. Again, thanks for bringing it up.
Jim, thanks for the additional info on the mats. Sounds like these mats are pretty much identical to yours. I'll stop over there in the next day or so to take a look... and maybe a smell or two
to see what I think. I also read other comments within the higher ratings and several said the odor will go away after a couple days but still suggested putting them elsewhere during that time because the odor was pretty bad.
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- May 18, 2015
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I applied two coats of Ghostshield 4500 densifier a while back... very easy... mixed 1:1 with water, used a yard weed sprayer to apply a thin layer on the floor and a soft bristle broom to even it out and eliminate any pools. Invisible when dry.
Thankfully I did NOT apply the Ghostshield 8505 sealer (Note: To clarify the 8505 is the version with an oil repellent and the 8500 is the version without an oil repellent). I contacted Ghostshield about the 8505 because the label said it could not be top coated with anything but additional coats of the 8505. Sure enough, the oil repellent properties would prevent other coatings from adhering to the surface, including oil based paints, epoxy coatings, etc. So, if I had a pristine slab of concrete that I wasn't going to paint, or I was definitely going to tile the floor, I would have used the 8505. Instead I exchanged it for the 8500.
Applied two wet on wet coats of the 8500 per the instructions and now waiting the required 7 days before painting. For the topcoat I planned on using the DryLok E1 which is an epoxy reinforced paint, but can't find it anywhere, so trying to decide what to use instead.
Thankfully I did NOT apply the Ghostshield 8505 sealer (Note: To clarify the 8505 is the version with an oil repellent and the 8500 is the version without an oil repellent). I contacted Ghostshield about the 8505 because the label said it could not be top coated with anything but additional coats of the 8505. Sure enough, the oil repellent properties would prevent other coatings from adhering to the surface, including oil based paints, epoxy coatings, etc. So, if I had a pristine slab of concrete that I wasn't going to paint, or I was definitely going to tile the floor, I would have used the 8505. Instead I exchanged it for the 8500.
Applied two wet on wet coats of the 8500 per the instructions and now waiting the required 7 days before painting. For the topcoat I planned on using the DryLok E1 which is an epoxy reinforced paint, but can't find it anywhere, so trying to decide what to use instead.
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- May 18, 2015
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Decided on the following for the concrete floor... inexpensive but hopefully it will hold up much better than other alternatives without spending a fortune. Will be starting the application today... (2) coats of Seal-Krete Lock-Down which is their epoxy bonding primer for concrete... (2) coats of Seal-Krete 1-part Epoxy Paint (just because it's better than paint)... and finally top it off with at least (4) coats of Rust-oleum Varathane clear satin Polyurethane for the durability. The polyurethane should also make it easier to wipe up spills.
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- May 18, 2015
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Finally finished all those coats of paint. I actually added a 5th coat of Polyurethane in order to apply the anti-skid additive. Don't care for what the anti-skid does to the coating but it's a necessary evil. More pics attached. Needs more time before I can put it to use, but the mill will get moved in next week. Still don't have the lathe... not sure where it is but I hope it shows up soon.
