[Newbie] Electrical components

[Ulma Doctor]

Hi David,
the component in question is a transformer, it takes 440 or 220 and reduces the voltage for control purposes.
Generally speaking 115VAC control systems are used on most equipment i have ever ran across.
there are few 24V systems but they do exist
even more rare is the DC control system

I would bet $100 that the contactors are controlled by 115VAC on your grinder, but the contactors and controls will be modified or removed for VFD operation.

for coolant, it would be better to make or purchase a mist system
flood coolant has little value outside of production work

 

[DavidR8]

Why not use this panel to mount your new components on?
Is it deep enough for your teco?
This could be a pretty panel inside while looking original on the outside.
You dont need to vary the motor speed so your existing switches should work on the tecos 24 vdc internal control circuit.
If deep enough for your drive then strip it and paint the inside white.
Decide whether you want fuses or circuit breakers .

The cabinet is 5.80” deep.
The VFD IS 5.75” deep.
So it might just fit

 

[sdelivery]

The cabinet is 5.80” deep.
The VFD IS 5.75” deep.
So it might just fit

What size is your coolant pump?

 

[DavidR8]

What size is your coolant pump?

It’s only 1/10 hp.
.4 A @220v 3-phase.

 

[uncle harry]

Interesting idea. I'll measure it and see. The Teco is quite deep as it happens and my gut says its too deep for the panel.

Most VFD units require a bit of "windage" clearance and preferably good ventilation to avoid over heating. Your enclosure appears small for that requirement.

 

[DavidR8]

Most VFD units require a bit of "windage" clearance and preferably good ventilation to avoid over heating. Your enclosure appears small for that requirement.

It’s actually quite large, probably 18” wide and 24” tall.
But I think the VFD is too deep to fit without clearance issues.

 

[mksj]

A few suggestions, the first would be to remove all the current electrics if you are going to use a VFD. Also the current wiring is kind of a hodgepodge of old an new, looks like they have a ground connection connected to the control wires which would not be acceptable. If you need more space you can remove the back plate and do direct mounts to the back of the enclosure to add some DIN rails to mount other electrics. Alternative would be to cutout the back plate in the area where you mount the VFD, should give you an extra 1/2-3/4". I have done this in several builds. Replace the coolant pump with a 230V single phase, either a submersible type or a standard coolant type that mounts to the tank. The coolant power is very low amperage so one could either connect to a switch or use a mini contactor.

The VFD is low voltage controls, replace the switches with new momentary push buttons, use what is called 3 wire control which is a momentary push on that turns the VFD output on and a momentary push on the off will stop it. Coolant could be a sustained ON/OFF or you could use a momentary mini-contactor with a latching connection that will work with momentary buttons. This is quite common.

 

[sdelivery]

I would use that cabinet and those push buttons. Add a fan if the temperature TEST high. Put a filtered air port in the cabinet for heat to escape. There is plenty of air space, check carefully your measurements for depth. You can always upgrade switches later.
It will definitely need new wiring but that is not a big deal.

 

[whitmore]

I’m not sure what the top unit is though. Looks vaguely like a transformer.

Yep, it's a transformer; because there's only ONE fuse, it has to be a one-phase stepdown
transformer to run the relay coils and switches, apparently taking input from L1/L2
and possibly putting out 120VAC (or 24 VAC...) as Eddyde said. Labels on the relays
will tell you what the coil drive voltage is.

 

[DavidR8]

I stripped out all of the components today.
It’s a full 6” from the back to the inside of the opening flange.
Might look at some DIN rails as @mksj suggested.
All of the switches are Cutler Hammer and marked 110v.