[Source] Durable Paint for SBL 13

When you guys just doing "mop and glow" paint job, and not total restoration, do you take the surface prep work down to the bare metal?
 
When you guys just doing "mop and glow" paint job, and not total restoration, do you take the surface prep work down to the bare metal?
If you are using the Rustoleum or similar good quality brushing enamel, you can hide all kinds of sins while painting over nasty looking machines. The surface still needs to be well cleaned, no oil, grease, or grime whatsoever, no loose paint, filler, or other stuff, and with some "tooth" for the paint to adhere to, not shiny. That is about all that is required, besides a good job of brushing. Filling with filler putty is optional, and quite fussy and time consuming, but done right it looks great! I am for sure no Rembrandt, but if you start on one corner and keep painting away from it, always working from a fresh wet edge on to the unpainted areas, you can get a really nice finish brushing it. Use plenty of paint or the brush marks will not flatten and smooth out, but not too much paint which can cause runs and sags. After the paint is spread out well, get away from it and don't go back. Harbor Freight brushes will not be your friend for this. Use good quality brushes, clean them up properly afterwards and take proper care of them, and they will last a lifetime. I use brushes older than I am. After finishing the first coat, look it over and see if it meets your standards. If so, done! If not, re-coat it after one hour, which usually looks really nice, much smoother and less imperfections visible underneath. Don't use any of my work as a great example, I don't get enough practice painting to be really good at it. My dad was a really good painter, and showed me most of what I know. I remember him getting on me for trying to spread the paint too thin, saying loudly "You can't paint without paint!!!"
 
One nice thing I like about Rustoleum paint. Them cheap old paint brushes I use will not leave brush strokes using Rustoleum paint. It will flow and smooth out those brush strokes to a nice smooth glossy finish. Now, all of them darn flying bugs that land on the wet paint.
 
If I rebuild a machine I go down to bare metal, I prime with PPG DP-40 and paint with PPG Concept paint. This will outlast you and look good to the end, this paint is chip resistant and impervious to oils fluids and can be cleaned with lacquer thinner without damage. It must be sprayed and will harden within 3 hours but takes 3 days to fully harden. I hope your wife gets creative with the color, I hate Battle Ship Gray. Here are some examples.

GRINDER.jpg

SOUTHBEND LATHE 015.jpg

CUMMINS 9HP  1924 restored 006.jpg

CUMMINS 9HP  1924 restored 006.jpg

GRINDER.jpg

SOUTHBEND LATHE 015.jpg
 
Both lowes and home depot carry SIMULAR smoke gray...

They are different and we found out by accident when we forgot where we had bought an extra can and tried to exchange it at the wrong place...

Home depot version thins with paint thinner and lowes version thins with acetone.

We use a hf detail gun with lowes blend and thin little so it goes on thicker.

Many coats and it fills the voids and makes a great smooth surface and resists most home oils.

Down side is it does require weeks to cure really hard if applied in many coats to build up the finish.

Never tried brushing as lazy to brush and not wanting to waste the paint tossed in the brush plus those cheap brushes always seem to shed.

Brush okay for small areas but larger ones just too much work!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
Both lowes and home depot carry SIMULAR smoke gray...

They are different and we found out by accident when we forgot where we had bought an extra can and tried to exchange it at the wrong place...

Home depot version thins with paint thinner and lowes version thins with acetone.

We use a hf detail gun with lowes blend and thin little so it goes on thicker.

Many coats and it fills the voids and makes a great smooth surface and resists most home oils.

Down side is it does require weeks to cure really hard if applied in many coats to build up the finish.

Never tried brushing as lazy to brush and not wanting to waste the paint tossed in the brush plus those cheap brushes always seem to shed.

Brush okay for small areas but larger ones just too much work!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
Too lazy to brush? Most of the time I am too lazy to prep, mask, tape and mitigate over spray, then clean up the gun and the over spray prevention. A good brush can be cleaned in a little thinner followed by warm soapy water in a few minutes. You will lose more paint in over spray than in the brush. Not having a spray booth, I either have to spray outside with the wind, bugs, and dust, or do it in the shop where the light is poorer for painting and the chances for over spray on things I care about is greater. Don't get me wrong, I have and do spray paint, even have done a car and some auto body repairs, but on shop stuff I have been gravitating more and more to brushing. Brushing looks "proper" on old equipment IMO, spray looks good on newer stuff and things I want to look more flashy/shiny. Both are perfectly legitimate and useful methods for the machinist...
 
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