Drill Bit Stuck

I remember getting a bit stuck in the work piece. When I tried to reverse the Albrecht chuck it released the bit. Do you thinking trying to grab the bit and turn it the opposite way would help?

David
 
This is just ONE of the reasons why I dislike a keyless chuck. Happened to me a few times. And after trying to get the bit out the third time, I tossed all my keyless chucks. I love drill chucks with keys. Some people are hell bent on the keyless, to each his own…Dave
 
Break down and purchase a quality strap wrench, or several in different sizes. You will wonder how you ever got along without them.

(most? all?) Keyless chucks only tighten in the clockwise direction.
 
Bob Korves said:
Break down and purchase a quality strap wrench, or several in different sizes. You will wonder how you ever got along without them.

(most? all?) Keyless chucks only tighten in the clockwise direction.
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Accept for the crappy ones on cordless drills, of which I have a few. They are meant to work in forward and reverse, but most that I have are marginal in either direction.

David
 
I like keyless chucks, but I don't use them for any of the larger drills, definitely nothing over 1/2". I made the mistake of using one for a 1" bit once, and found myself in the same situation: bit stuck in the chuck. I did not have a strap wrench available at the time, but a piece of an old leather belt and a large channel lock style pliers did the trick. That piece of leather stays right by the chucks all the time now, sort of a 'guarantee' that I'll never need it again!
 
We used ours to drill 4 inch holes in 2 X 6 lumber with the BP with large hole saws.

It was very well seated but above process got it opened up.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
 
mikey said:
My understanding is that the drill bit is intended to be bottomed out in an Albrecht chuck. As the spindle moves up and the jaws close, the bit is supported underneath and on three sides. This aids in solidity and accuracy. The only time I don't bottom a bit is when using a center drill; this is so I don't dull the point that is sitting inside the chuck.

When using a big drill, especially a S&D drill, I change to a Jacobs Super Chuck - it grabs more securely and I don't ever have a jam.
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I never heard that one before, I just always assumed it wasn't a good idea to bottom out a drill bit in any drill chuck. Learn something new everyday.

I probably still won't try it though. My keyless chucks have the holes for a spanner so it was easy to get it loose. Even since I got a drill bit stuck in one of my keyless chucks that's when I set out to get me a keyed chuck, to use for bigger drills & taps. Luckily I ended up with 3 made in Hartford 14Ns & an 18N.

I primarily use keyless chucks & like them, such a time saver, but I won't use them with S&D drills anymore unless I'm drilling non ferrous metals or mild steel.
 
darkzero said:
I primarily use keyless chucks & like them, such a time saver, but I won't use them with S&D drills anymore unless I'm drilling non ferrous metals or mild steel.
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I agree, Will. In fact, I try to mostly stay away from my S & D drills, they always seem to cause some sort of trouble. With fairly light work, care, and forethought, they are not so bad.
 
darkzero said:
I never heard that one before, I just always assumed it wasn't a good idea to bottom out a drill bit in any drill chuck. Learn something new everyday.

I probably still won't try it though. My keyless chucks have the holes for a spanner so it was easy to get it loose. Even since I got a drill bit stuck in one of my keyless chucks that's when I set out to get me a keyed chuck, to use for bigger drills & taps. Luckily I ended up with 3 made in Hartford 14Ns & an 18N.

I primarily use keyless chucks & like them, such a time saver, but I won't use them with S&D drills anymore unless I'm drilling non ferrous metals or mild steel.
Click to expand...

An Albrecht chuck is a precision drill chuck. It is balanced to 10K rpm, has hardened components in most areas and has less than 0.002" TIR when it leaves the factory. The self-tightening feature was invented and patented by Albrecht and it works almost flawlessly. When you bottom the drill and lock it down in an Albrecht chuck you basically transfer the accuracy of the chuck to the drill. If your drill or reamer is straight and sharp, this makes a difference in accuracy and fit so, for me, this is my practice.

I'm with you and Bob re the S&D drills in that I switch to a Super Chuck when I use them. Same for hole saws or other crude cutting implements like that. A keyed chuck is not self-tightening, though, and they can and do slip if excessive chatter or cutting forces are encountered. If the drill catches it can spin in the chuck as a result, scarring the bit and eliminating any chance of accuracy. This is one of the reasons I went to rotabroaches for larger holes in thinner materials, the very situation when an S&D or hole saw will catch.

For myself, if I jam a drill in one of my Albrecht chucks then I know its MY fault, not the chuck.
 
Bob Korves said:
I agree, Will. In fact, I try to mostly stay away from my S & D drills, they always seem to cause some sort of trouble. With fairly light work, care, and forethought, they are not so bad.
Click to expand...

I drill 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1" boiler plate with S&D bits all the time, I never have an issue with them. I'd much prefer to use annular cutters, but depending on the job, S&D drill bits get the job done. I seriously dislike keyless chucks, so much, I gave my Albrecht, away.
 
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