Do bi-metal relays wear out?

Get the full load current from the motor nameplate. Select the proper heater for that amperage. I suspect the machine is 240/480 volt. If it were furnished with heaters for 480v operation they will definitely trip the bimetal relays if run on 240v. These overload relays used a heating element in series with the load. When it raised the temperature enough the bimetal strip would bend and open the contacts. The two screws on top of the relay hold the heater in place. If one of the screws is loose that also would generate heat and contribute to premature tripping.

Bimetal and solder pot overload relays have been pretty much superseded by electronic overloads.

Here is a set of overload relay heater charts.

Siemens-Furnas overload relay heater tables | Charter Contact

Contact Kit & Motor Control Specialists
www.chartercontact.com www.chartercontact.com
 
Well turns out after checking things out a little more I found that the turn table gear motor is fried. I disconnected it and the pump runs and doesn't quit.

Best price for the gear motor I can find is right a $300. I wonder if the motor can be rebuilt?

Also the third pic is something that's wired inline with one leg of motor. I'm not sure what it is, and don't know how to test it to see if it may be the problem.

20210122_142349.jpg20210122_143831.jpg20210122_145337.jpg
 
I have a hunch that relay goes to the pump motor. That relay should be able to handle 25 amps, the pump motor draws a little over 14 amps. If that motor draws a lot more than 14 amps that is most likely the problem If that motor is capacitor start, you could have a bad start cap or there is something wrong with the pump (bad bearings?). Hope this helps.
 
silence dogood said:
I have a hunch that relay goes to the pump motor. That relay should be able to handle 25 amps, the pump motor draws a little over 14 amps. If that motor draws a lot more than 14 amps that is most likely the problem If that motor is capacitor start, you could have a bad start cap or there is something wrong with the pump (bad bearings?). Hope this helps.
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Arrg!:chagrin: Just as I was typing, you found the problem. Well, I'm glad that you did. At least the relay was doing what it was suppose to do.
 
That is a start/run 4uF capacitor attached. There are other gear motors like Bodine, but doesn't pay to get try to find one with matching specs. at a reasonable cost.

Zoro does carry the 1L523 for $302, they often send out discounts or use a new email account and get 15-20% off.
www.zoro.com

Dayton AC Gearmotor, 86.0 in-lb Max. Torque, 32 RPM Nameplate RPM, 230V AC Voltage, 1 Phase 1L523 | Zoro

Order Dayton AC Gearmotor, 86.0 in-lb Max. Torque, 32 RPM Nameplate RPM, 230V AC Voltage, 1 Phase, 1L523 at Zoro.com. Great prices & free shipping on orders over $50 when you sign in or sign up for an account.
www.zoro.com www.zoro.com

As far as measuring current draw, they sell inexpensive clamping amp meters for around $30 that snap close around a power wire and they measure the current. On single phase you clamp only one of the wires, otherwise clamping around the power cable will give you a null reading.

Etekcity Digital Clamp Meter Multimeter AC Current and AC/DC Voltage Tester with Amp, Volt, Ohm, Continuity, Diode and Resistance Test, Auto-Ranging, Red, MSR-C600: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Etekcity Digital Clamp Meter Multimeter AC Current and AC/DC Voltage Tester with Amp, Volt, Ohm, Continuity, Diode and Resistance Test, Auto-Ranging, Red, MSR-C600: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
 
Yes it was saving the rest of the machine by tripping like that.

I really can't complain about this, I only paid $500 for the washer. They are on ebay for almost $5k.

I did put a small pump in it for the hand brush. But other than that I've done nothing to it for 5 years.

But if I can have the motor rebuilt and save some money I will. For now I can just move the parts around to make sure they get clean.
 
It's been my experience that small motors like that are not economically feasible to re-wind. It's usually best to just buy a new one. But, before you buy a new motor, I'd recommend testing or replacing that capacitor. That may be the culprit.

Ted
 
Yes probably not worth rewinding, just wanted to check in case. I'll see if I can get a capacitor before I buy a new gear motor.

Funny thing you mention Zoro, I got a 20% discount today in my email today. But it's on select items and I tried using it with the motor and didn't get any discount. Probably best that it didn't work, I'll buy the capacitor first. My luck I'd buy the new motor and all it was wrong is the capacitor.

Edit:

Will this capacitor work?

Twidec/2Pcs 450V AC 50/60Hz Run Capacitor 2-Wire Metallized Polypropylene Film Capacitors for Ceiling Fan Motor Start Run 4uf CBB61-4: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Twidec/2Pcs 450V AC 50/60Hz Run Capacitor 2-Wire Metallized Polypropylene Film Capacitors for Ceiling Fan Motor Start Run 4uf CBB61-4: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
 
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IIRC, One of the clamp on meters from Harbor Freight also has a capacitor tester.
 
Capacitor is shown is 2 uF but motor specs shows 4uf. Unlikely to be the capacitor they do not go and if they did would most likely go open. If you sign up for Zoro email notifications with a different account they normally send you a 15% off. Alternative is a 3 phase gear motor with a cheap VFD if you wanted to adjust the speed.

One note to add to above, it is possible that the gearbox failed and is jammed which would account for the high current.
 
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