Die Filer - have one or insights?

[C-Bag]

I got intreagued by the idea of a die filer when I saw how somebody took a table top jig saw and adapted it to a filer. But being cheap and also heeding the admonishment that you don't want to try and take a lot of material off with it or any die filer I moved to a different solution. I mounted my die grinder in an adjustable mount using 80/20 and slowing it down with a router speed control. For me it's ideal and I didn't have to buy anything.

 

[george wilson]

I think I mentioned it somewhere,as I've made several posts about die filers. But,I'd estimate for a good slow speed about 30-to 60 strokes per minute. I actually haven't timed the die filer with a watch. This will make your files cut just fine and last a LOT longer.

If you have ever had the experience of 01 steel suddenly hardening just from being HAND filed a bit too fast,and cutting a groove in your file (from hardening maybe .001" deep!),you'll know that mild steel,brass,and various tool steels can stand different speeds. Brass can stand much faster strokes than mild steel. Tool steel is where you need to be the most careful. Even mild steel should not be filed real fast.

By the way,the master gunsmith mentioned that I was the ONLY person he had ever seen use cutting oil on a cutting off job with a hack saw. He had to admit,it made sense! I have a bunch of vintage hack saw blades that I like to LAST. And,it saws faster,too.

Some machinists OIL their files,too. That can be useful on metals like genuine wrought iron,that is gummy,and can suddenly grab a chip and cut a groove across your nearly finished surface.

 

[Alan H.]

George, you are making a very strong argument for variable and low speed. Thanks for your input.

 

[Componenx]

I have a Keller die filler with both overarms (one is spring loaded), and while it rarely gets used, it's REALLY nice to have when I do need it. I completely agree with the variable/low speed comments; try using a variac, it worked quite nicely on mine.

Files are difficult to find, and are frequently worn out in the middle. There's a place here in California that sharpens files, but I don't know if their process works for small and/or fine files. Bog Tool, or something like that.

I got my first Keller (now sold) at a yard sale years ago for $5 because the overarms were missing; the second one was free (also a gararge sale), because the seller considered it to be obsolete (!)

 

[Scruffy]

I was give this several years ago. Made by Illinois tool works, must have been made during ww2 , notice the war tag.
My problem is what George said , runs way to fast. I have cut a lot of material with a jig saw clamped to the bottom of my table saw table. Hers some pics.
Thanks scruffy Ron
Ps cliff is going to come 300 miles to get the lathe cabinet I gave him tomorrow

 

[John Dilsaver]

I just acquired an Oliver die filer, just beginning to learn about it. I will post more info soon.

 

[John Dilsaver]

Here it is just as I unloaded it.

 

[BGHansen]

View attachment 291207

Here it is just as I unloaded it.

John,

Congrats on the pick up! Definitely a nice tool to have when the need arises. Looks like you might have a model S-1 there. Hunt on eBay for "die filer files" or "parallel machine files" and expect to pay about $12 each for them. Not a tool I use every day, but I spent an hour using it fixing some sheet metal parts I messed up a month ago. The parts work great now, no one will be the wiser. I'd have spent days doing the work with needle files.

Bruce

 

[Toolmaker51]

David,
Thanks for the great links. I am tempted to buy the casting package from the first link. Combining a die filer with my belt grinder would give me quite a capacity. I am imagining a variable speed setup. Did you get deeply enough into this to decide which way you would go?

Terry,
Quite a find - how bout a photo or two. Are the files in decent shape? You mention the files are hard to come by, have you found a source?

Users of die filers won't get much utility out of variable speed. Like hacksaws; target 40-60 SPM to allow each tooth imparts cutting action. Thicker material, coarser teeth-slower speed. A three step sheave is quite common; slow-3 still removes material quickly and really good control to the finest of scribed lines. You'll be more productive engineering a stroke adjustment than speed, and that could be in steps too.
I was die-filing before any of us heard of wire-EDM, and it remains in use. Literally jobs in dozens of forms; dies of course up to 2" thick, small brackets, billet race car stuff, and three Pennsylvania muzzle loader patch boxes. And no monthly payment on a wire machine; besides, the nearest wire guy is 65 miles away.
Best advice I have, came to me 40 years ago. Store files separated like all files should be, and don't cut brass with files you want to use again on steel.

 

[wlburton]

Users of die filers won't get much utility out of variable speed. Like hacksaws; target 40-60 SPM to allow each tooth imparts cutting action. Thicker material, coarser teeth-slower speed. A three step sheave is quite common; slow-3 still removes material quickly and really good control to the finest of scribed lines. You'll be more productive engineering a stroke adjustment than speed, and that could be in steps too.
I was die-filing before any of us heard of wire-EDM, and it remains in use. Literally jobs in dozens of forms; dies of course up to 2" thick, small brackets, billet race car stuff, and three Pennsylvania muzzle loader patch boxes. And no monthly payment on a wire machine; besides, the nearest wire guy is 65 miles away.
Best advice I have, came to me 40 years ago. Store files separated like all files should be, and don't cut brass with files you want to use again on steel.

What is the issue with using files for both steel and brass? What about aluminum?