Craftsman bandsaws

[mrbreezeet1]

got these two little craftsman bandsaws tonight, one looks to be complete, one is missing the tensioner and blade guide.
Need to look them over.
No motor, just the saws.
These are the craigslist pictures, they are smaller that they look.
he must have took the ad down already, I'll get some pictures when I bring them in the house.
It looks like this one

 

[mrbreezeet1]

l know 1 thing that is missing is the damper to control the speed that it lowers.
Anyone know of a retrofit for this purpose?

 

[road]

I have the same saw. I rebuilt mine a cpl of years ago.

I will post a few pics of mine.

Some parts are still avail @ Sears.

your has a drop cylinder what "damper" are you speaking of ?

 

[road]

I posted my rebuild on another forum here is the link to it.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217822

This is an original ad poster for the saw

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I posted my rebuild on another forum here is the link to it.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217822

This is an original ad poster for the saw

LOL $119.00
I'll take 2.
Is that still a good price?

Thanks for the link, l will be sure to look at it.

drop cylinder, controls the speed that it drops?
That is what l am missing.
EDIT
The drop cylinder is shown well in this picture.


Does the little saw work well?

Where are you getting your blades?

The pulley looks bigger than the one that is on mine, it that the pulley that came with it?

Do you use any sort of coolant system on the machine?

Is there somewhere you must adjust tracking?

I didn't think that saw had tires, I guess now l am missing them too.

Oh, you said,
Recently the saw has spit out the tire from the from wheel

Number 38 showing tires, they call them
Band, Saw Friction.

 

[ogberi]

I had one of those fifth-hand. While I'm sure it's a good saw if it's in good shape, mine was absolutely trashed. The bushings were oval, the gears were all but stripped, and what wasn't rusted was broken. It'd constantly throw the blade, couldn't cut straight no matter how I adjusted the thing (see worn bushings!). I had made new bushings for it, but the next time I tensioned it the frame cracked. Turns out there was a crack in it to begin with, and with the new bushings I could actually get the blade to the correct tension. Soon as I started cutting, the frame broke. The crack showed half of it was rusted and grimy, meaning it was cracked when I got it. It'd only clamp things smaller than 3" or larger than 3 inches. About 2-3" of the buttressed screw was absolutely buggered (rusted to death), so I'd either have to cut small stuff, or stack a piece of scrap in there to get out past the messed up threads.

I ended up stripping everything useful and binning the rest. I didn't keep the drop cylinder, though. Some enterprising soul had tried to disassemble it. With what looked to be a massive vice and industrial sized pipe wrench. If it wasn't messed up before they started, it was when they were finished.

What I'd love to get my hands on is a power hacksaw. Might just have to break down and build one, tho. Only one I found on CL around here got snapped up the same day.

 

[road]

LOL $119.00
I'll take 2.
Is that still a good price?

Thanks for the link, l will be sure to look at it.

drop cylinder, controls the speed that it drops?
That is what l am missing.
EDIT
The drop cylinder is shown well in this picture.


Does the little saw work well?

Where are you getting your blades?

The pulley looks bigger than the one that is on mine, it that the pulley that came with it?

Do you use any sort of coolant system on the machine?

Is there somewhere you must adjust tracking?

I didn't think that saw had tires, I guess now l am missing them too.

Oh, you said,
Recently the saw has spit out the tire from the from wheel

Number 38 showing tires, they call them
Band, Saw Friction.

Price I paid $45 for mine off the original owner too. circa 1958 ish
I know Sears had some rebuild parts for the cylinder not sure if they had all of them though.
My saw works great for my small hobby shop. I have cut up to 6" round stock Aluminum.
no vibrations or cutting problems.
I get my blades made at a local Tool supply shop.
As for the pulley yes it came with my saw. I changed out the motor pulley to keep my rmp low for metals.
I am looking for a 3 pulley for that so I have optional cutting speeds.
I don't like to use cutting fluids but If I need cooling or lubrication, I use WD-40 or machinist cutting oil.
Tracking ; I never had a problem with mine So I never really investigated that.
The tires on mine are 1/8" x 1/2" black rubber. As the blade tension is increased the tire has started to squeeze out of it's groove. I can get another of my local suppliers shops to make them for me. I will re-install new ones with a contact cement type adhesive.

Oh Something that was suggested to me , I installed a safety drop chain for the motor today.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

OK, Thanks, I will have to get into this when I am more in the mood.
Some days I am all in to it, and other days, I don't feel like fooling with it/anything.
Yes, I will need to findsome tires.
One guy on owwm used vacuum cleaner belts.
Might have to try to retro fit the/a drop cylinder to it.

 

[road]

I was doing a bit of research . yours looks like it maybe an Atlas made version.


I copied this note from some where.

" That metal-cutting bandsaw was in the 1969 Sears Craftsman tool catalog, No. 99 AT 22922N2 (with motor) for $149.95. The blade is 1/2" x 60" x .020" and is welded backwards to every other bandsaw I have seen. The saw looks a lot like the Taiwan pivoting cutoff saws that became common in the late 1970's, but is made backwards.

The Sears Parts website lists that as CRAFTSMAN CONTINUOUS-BLADE POWER HACKSAW 101.22922 (POWER HACKSAW). It is similar/identical to the 108.22922. The 101 designation indicates the manufacturer, Atlas Press.


Sears no longer has the manual, but knowing the model name may help you find it.


Also, there was a post about four years ago on metalworking-forum.com: "

Thought this may be of use to you ...

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Thanks, Darn it, I wrote the model # down, but l think I left the paper downstairs.
I will update later.
Actually, though, the number starts with a 108.????????

Actually the one I show is not mine, I used it as an example.
It is like that, but my number is 108.22921

Blade is welded backwards?

You mean I need a special blade, and can't just get a regular 60" blade?