Collet Set...

Ehhh... I'll order one anyways. I'll try and make one and see how accurate it is. What have I got to lose?
 
Why do all the sets jump over the 15/32 collet?
I would think that just under 1/2 might come in handy, but most all the sets I have looked at don't seem to have them?
 
I have noticed a difference in the nuts, i have a through hole er32 chuck for my lathe and the nut on that is a bit more fiddly than the mt3 one, sometimes i have to put the collet in the nut empty then put the thing to be held in it or i cant get the collet into the nut. Both function well apart from that and eject the collet properly.

You are always supposed to put the empty collet in the nut first, then load it into the chuck. It will be fiddly if you just try putting the nut in the chuck first, or if you try putting a part in the collet, then in the nut.
 
You are always supposed to put the empty collet in the nut first, then load it into the chuck. It will be fiddly if you just try putting the nut in the chuck first, or if you try putting a part in the collet, then in the nut.

Interesting info, does it improve the repeat ability or is their another reason?

I put the part or tool in the collet then the collet into the nut. Apart from undersized things which don't stay in untill their clamped down.

The main reason I pre load end mills into the collets is I find they can grip a little as you push things into them and the taper compresses the collet slightly, mainly for on size items (12mm end mill in 11-12mm collet etc.) and the end mills can be quite easy to cut ones hand on when their very sharp :) owch.

Stuart
 
it prevents ruing your collet or nut.
The collet compresses to get past the ledge in the nut. puting a tool in there kind of makes compression a problem. So you are now relying only on the extra space in the nut or deforming the nut or deforming the collet. You can damage a collet or nut .. But obviously you haven't so ignore my rant.. it's just not a good idea.
 
it prevents ruing your collet or nut.
The collet compresses to get past the ledge in the nut. puting a tool in there kind of makes compression a problem. So you are now relying only on the extra space in the nut or deforming the nut or deforming the collet. You can damage a collet or nut .. But obviously you haven't so ignore my rant.. it's just not a good idea.


Thats interesting, I got an MT3 collet chuck for holding milling cutters etc. and was new to the er collet thing but the collets just plop into that nut very easily with or without , the one for the lathe you cant generally do that, maybe its a tighter tolerance nut.

Always interesting to learn something new :)

Stuart
 
Interesting info, does it improve the repeat ability or is their another reason?

I put the part or tool in the collet then the collet into the nut. Apart from undersized things which don't stay in untill their clamped down.

The main reason I pre load end mills into the collets is I find they can grip a little as you push things into them and the taper compresses the collet slightly, mainly for on size items (12mm end mill in 11-12mm collet etc.) and the end mills can be quite easy to cut ones hand on when their very sharp :) owch.

Stuart
ER collets have a partial flange which retains the collet when the nut is loosened. This pulls the collet, preventing any binding of the collet and tool or work. ER collets should be seated in the nut by inserting at an angle and rotating so the collet axis is aligned with with the nut axis. Check by holding the collet/nut vertically. The collet should be retained in the nut. Trying to insert the collet straight on into the nut will result in an improper seat and resultant poor grip on the tool/work, undue runout, and possible damage to the collet and/or nut.
 
ER collets have a partial flange which retains the collet when the nut is loosened. This pulls the collet, preventing any binding of the collet and tool or work. ER collets should be seated in the nut by inserting at an angle and rotating so the collet axis is aligned with with the nut axis. Check by holding the collet/nut vertically. The collet should be retained in the nut. Trying to insert the collet straight on into the nut will result in an improper seat and resultant poor grip on the tool/work, undue runout, and possible damage to the collet and/or nut.


In my head the slight angle thing is automatic :) I probably described the process a little poorly. I might try and investigate the differences between the two nuts a little more to see if its a visible difference.

Sorry for dragging the thread a little off topic :)

Stuart
 
Never be sorry for dragging a Thread off topic a bit.. Understanding is the only way to come to the right conclusion. You may be educating more members with this thread.

"Billy G"
 
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