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can anyone identify this model?

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rambin

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#61
Yes at least on mine. You can find longer set screws but not in dog point that I could find (well except Fastenal but they wanted over $2 each!)
Another option would be to either turn down the end of some standard set screws or drill out the end and insert some brass pins.


https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/24936
Fastenal around here doesn't sell individual screws they make you buy the bag... I don't even know how they stay in business no private citizens have any use for the place.... I might try that 1" screw that u suggested earlier they were like 85 cents I think
and just get some thin lock nuts should work pretty good size wise.. now for those half nuts!!!
 

wa5cab

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#62
Reason stated in the manual was that the threads were somewhat finer than that of SAE and with the Allen screws the strength was better and better choices of lengths.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk
This is a little OT, but... I can't comment on stockage or availability, but the other statement about finer threads being stronger than the same outside diameter coarser ones is obviously false. Look at any thread dimension table from Whitworth through ISO Metric and you will see that as the pitch decreases for a constant thread size (nominal outside diameter), the minor diameter of the thread increases. So in shear, the cross sectional area of metal in contact for one thread decreases as the thread gets finer. If the major and minor diameters of the male and female threads were all the same (no clearance and no allowance), it would be an exact wash. But since you have to have clearances in order not to be solid metal to metal (you couldn't turn it by hand) and allowances or you couldn't make it for less than megabucks, as the pitch goes down, the strength also goes down. It isn't much, and is generally ignored in thread strength tables (except for make-up torque). But it very obviously can't go up as claimed in that manual.
 

Scruffy

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#63
I woudn't worry about the brass tips. Find something that will work and make chips.
Thanks scruffy
 

rambin

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#64
yes brass tipped would be nice and all but this rig is 80yrs old and it made it this far without brass tips :p I gotta get off my ass and just order some! and some half nuts ouch
 

rambin

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#65
wow still on the hunt for those gib screws ....nothing local and most of the online places that do have them are selling by the 100lot which means high shipping and 93 bolts I will never use :(
 

Scruffy

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#66
Tell me what thread and length you need and I'll mail you some.
Scruffy
 

Scruffy

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#68
I think I have the gib screws covered, sent you a message. Now on to the half nuts. I wonder if their the same as a 820 ? If so I have 2 820's one with no wear that is apart. Haven't assembled it after bring it home from w.va. I'd like to try to make you them.
Thanks scruffy ron
 

Scruffy

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#69
I think I have ra's gibb screws covered. Bought some 1/4 by 28 by 1-1/4 allen heads. I' m going to chuck them in a collet , get rid of allen head, cut to length, cut slot and taper other end. Using machinist handbook for slot width and taper.
Total price for 8 screws and 7 jam nuts. 5.18.
Thanks scruffy ron
 

rambin

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#70
Thanks scruffy I appreciate the offer but I've already sent my half nuts off to a guy that that rebuilds them. I found his posts on practical machinist when I did a Google search....he's quite a bit cheaper then the new ones from logan
 

rambin

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#72
Yes I do.. thnks for going to all that trouble. I'm away from the puter trying to type on the phone kinda sucks
 

rambin

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#73
time for a little update I guess... well I popped out the spindle so I could put on a new belt when it arrives and cleaned up the bull gear and a few other parts... the spindle bearing seems to be pressed to the spindle, I don't have a press so I was wondering if I should throw the whole deal in the solvent then regrease the bearing or just leave it as is with some new grease squeezed into it? the outside bearing is still in the bore it looks to be a sealed unit so I figure theres no point removing it? didn't take any pics
 

Nogoingback

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#74
Some folks have had success washing the old grease out of the bearing and re-greasing. You have nothing to lose by trying, and it might save you buying a bearing. My experience with removing
the bearing was that it wasn't too difficult. The "nut" that held mine on was made with a hook spanner in mind. Logan suggested I get if off with a hammer and a punch. I held it in a vice with
a chuck of thick leather wrapped around the spindle, heated it up, and tapped it off. The bearing came off the spindle fairly easily. I pressed the new one on with a home made press of pipe and
all thread.

My old bearing was an original New Departure bearing with a seal on one side and open on the other. If yours is like that, you can hose it out with solvent.
 

rambin

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#75
the bearing has no issues at the moment seems to be in good shape that's why I was wondering if I should just leave it...or clean it and repack....any issue with cleaning and repacking while its still on the shaft?
 

wa5cab

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#76
I would clean and repack. You'll never get a better chance.
 

rambin

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#77
ok I'm going to throw it in the degreaser bucket and let it soak...shaft and all...managed to get the nut off but its pressed on pretty good and I don't have a press at the moment...I'll just clean it while it's on the shaft...
 
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rambin

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#78
a little update... cleaned those bearings and repacked with a grease needle as best I could get it in there... just got my half nuts back from rebuild there looking really good will try to install them today, new belt is on with the spindle back installed. doing a little painting on a few pieces that ive managed to blast the ugly green paint off of...also got my gib screws back in thanks to wa5cab for helping me with that it will be a slow process..
 

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RandyM

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#79
Doing things correctly is never a speedy process (at least for me). You'll be glad you did it right.
 

rambin

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#80
well its been awhile since I posted progress, busy with other things and slowly picking away on the lathe. took the tailstock off and gave it a douche in the super clean....(great stuff removes oil and paint!) I see that I need a new tailstock lock handle and the stud underneath it as well as someone has killed it.... the quill moves fine and holds a #2 taper good but someone has done some hammering on it.... im wondering if I was to build up (tig) the hammer marks and then machine it round again? would that be something to think about? the bolt that goes thru the bed has been messed with as well it seems, and the nut is a 3/4 thread but the outside dimensions have been wittled to a 5/8 sized nut (its aluminum)??? heres some pics. not sure if the big nut on the back 20171106_114847.jpg 20171106_114902(1).jpg , I tried it didn't move? 20171106_145417.jpg 20171106_145404.jpg 20171106_114919.jpg

anyhow if anyones got any suggestions on that quill or knows of an available handle and stud bolt. that's where im at
 

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Nogoingback

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#81
Have look at eBay for the handle. The stud is available from Logan, though it's not cheap!
 

Silverbullet

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#82
You might be able to save the handle, cut off the threaded part and drill and tap it the size you need for the clamp piece. Use either all thread or a long enough threaded bolt and loctite or pin it in the handle . You can do it.
 

rambin

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#83
Have look at eBay for the handle. The stud is available from Logan, though it's not cheap!
I bought the parts manual document from logan as I couldn't find it elsewhere, they got me good for that, I don't like being gouged so they will be the last option....
 

rambin

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#84
You might be able to save the handle, cut off the threaded part and drill and tap it the size you need for the clamp piece. Use either all thread or a long enough threaded bolt and loctite or pin it in the handle . You can do it.
its been brazed in and ground up apparently would be next to impossible to get it mounted in a vice to drill out and have a straight hole. for some reason it was made by logan to be 2 separate pieces a handle and a stud.
 

Nogoingback

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#85
I bought the parts manual document from logan as I couldn't find it elsewhere, they got me good for that, I don't like being gouged so they will be the last option....
Yes, parts from Logan can be expensive. I recently went through my Logan and bought a number of parts from them. But, supplying parts
for 75 year old machine tools in very small quantities probably doesn't result in huge profits. If you really need something and eBay
doesn't have it, at least they're available, and Scott Logan also provides quite a bit of free advice as well. At a time when some manufacturers
stop supplying parts after 10 years, or don't offer repair parts at all, the fact that they still exist at all is great.
 

rambin

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#86
Yes, parts from Logan can be expensive. I recently went through my Logan and bought a number of parts from them. But, supplying parts
for 75 year old machine tools in very small quantities probably doesn't result in huge profits. If you really need something and eBay
doesn't have it, at least they're available, and Scott Logan also provides quite a bit of free advice as well. At a time when some manufacturers
stop supplying parts after 10 years, or don't offer repair parts at all, the fact that they still exist at all is great.
some of the prices on ebay for this stuff should be a crime as well, but I guess when you have the rare pieces that people want u can get away with that... seems people on ebay are buying whole lathes and dissecting them for parts and selling part by part? what a waste
 

Nogoingback

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#87
some of the prices on ebay for this stuff should be a crime as well, but I guess when you have the rare pieces that people want u can get away with that... seems people on ebay are buying whole lathes and dissecting them for parts and selling part by part? what a waste
I think you have it right: people part them out.
 

wa5cab

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#88
On the other hand, if someone wasn't parting out used equipment, there would be no used parts available. As for prices, it's the same with new Atlas parts. But you have to keep in mind that whomever is making the parts has to charge current day prices for them or they would lose money on every part they sold. It's no longer 1940 or 1950.
 

Nogoingback

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#89
As old as some of these machines are, it often isn't economic to repair them or put them back into service. When that's the case, I think it makes
sense to part them out. I would hate to see a useful or running machine parted out.
 

rambin

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#90
As old as some of these machines are, it often isn't economic to repair them or put them back into service. When that's the case, I think it makes
sense to part them out. I would hate to see a useful or running machine parted out.
maybe we just don't know what is wrong...I see complete machines sold in pieces on ebay and am not seeing a bad piece on it... and I know its done with everything even refrigerators to make parts available....just seems sad to divide up this old iron.

anyhow was more so looking for some parts and some advice on how I can fix up my lathe then a rant on parting out
 
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