Can anyone identify the vendor of this mill?

Rata222

Rata222

Registered
Registered
Joined
Dec 8, 2015
Messages
111
Mill_001.jpg Mill_002.jpg Hi
Purchased this mill a few weeks ago. There is no brand name on the badge – only a model and serial number. It is similar to the Grizzly G1004. It is gray- so thinking maybe Enco. It was made in 1997. Just curious who would have sold this machine. Perhaps someone would recognize the model number. It is IKN-11000M .
Jim
 
it was most likely manufactured in Taiwan. they were sold under many badge names.
Acrow, Select, Trans World Steel, Jet, and other badges were affixed to the machines
I have the Trans World Steel VHM728

your machine looks very Similar to the old Jet JVM830 (see page 30 of the attached literature)
 

Attachments

  • Jet_1979_Catalog.pdf
    8.7 MB · Views: 52
Last edited:
Thank you all for the replies and sending the links.
B100 - I dont know how you found that link with the model number listed. I thought I had done a thorough
search. So evidently it was sold by J&L.
Ulma Doctor and Dave Paine - thank you for the catalog and manual.

The machine was used in a small parts house making one small plate for Industrial Sewing machines. I tore it down for a good cleaning and it appears to be in great shape.
 
Your mill is in much better shape than mine. The fellow who sold me my mill owned it from new in 2000, but he was not one cleaning up the chips so the Y axis ways have some grooves where chips got underneath.

The seller pointed out that the mill does not have a quill lock. He said he holds the spindle pulley with one hand while using the wrench with the other and never had a problem tightening or loosening the drawbar. So far he has been correct.

I did not like the speeds on my mill. Nothing in between 490 and 950 rpm. Also changing the belts was a pain since insufficient movement on the motor mount so the belts were not really loose enough.

I also had some belt noise due to the auxiliary pulley being about 1/2in higher than the spindle pulley and no easy way to tweak the alignment.

I finally removed the auxiliary arm and pulley, and flipped the motor pulley upside down. I now only have 3 speeds, but they are ones I can use. I measured with a hand held tachometer. Speeds are now 560, 862 and 1200 rpm.

The link belt runs smooth and quiet. The long length and the links make changing belts easy. A lot more stretch than a fixed belt.

I was also able easily align the motor pulley with the spindle pulley.

Mill_link_belt_no_auxiliary_pulley_7944.jpg

By the way, if you ever need to remove the motor pulley, mine has TWO set screws in the pulley.

I want to eventually change the motor to a 3 phase motor with a VFD. Each month some other bills get priority over this purchase.

If your motor is the same as mine, it may be a non-standard motor. Mine has a 3/4in shaft and if I recall a metric sized key.

NEMA motors would be either 5/8in or 7/8in. The motor mount spacing seems like a NEMA 145 which has 7/8in shaft. If is easy to purchase a single pulley for 7/8in shaft, but not easy to find a 3 step pulley.

The previous owner said the original motor was making a noise so he replaced with a 1 HP NEMA frame 56 motor which has 5/8in shaft and made a bushing and deeper key. I took the original 1 1/2HP motor apart. Something fell out, likely the source of the noise. It started up and ran without any noise so I put this back in the mill since the original motor is quieter especially on startup.
 
Dave - Thank you for all the info you provided.

Dave Paine said:
Your mill is in much better shape than mine. The fellow who sold me my mill owned it from new in 2000, but he was not one cleaning up the chips so the Y axis ways have some grooves where chips got underneath.
Click to expand...

My machine was used to produce a part thst was a small plate with grooves milled in. So wear is predominant in the Y-avis and quill. Though not bad. The Y axis on mine is scored also from chips. After cleaning and adjusting gibs it seems to have consistancy through the entire travel. So not really that worn. I like to think of those grooves as oil pockets- LOL.

Dave Paine said:
The seller pointed out that the mill does not have a quill lock. He said he holds the spindle pulley with one hand while using the wrench with the other and never had a problem tightening or loosening the drawbar. So far he has been correct.
Click to expand...
I also questioned the no spindle lock. The seller showed me the draw bar has two nuts on it. The top nut is brazed or locktited on the end of the drawbar. Underneath it is a jam nut. After threading into the collet - You tighten the jam nut to pull the draw bar. To loosen you use two wrenches - Holding the top nut. and loosening the jam nut. Looks like that should work well. Have not used it much yet to prove it out.
Thanks - Jim
 
Last edited:
If It's an R8 spindle, check the spindle to see if there are any holes drilled in it, if there are the machine probably came with a spanner to hold the spindle for tightening or loosning , and. if it's like most of them, it was the first thing lost---take a look at the Grizzly manual, if you indeed have a spindle like this, the Grizzly spanner should work. My last Grizzly came with a spanner.
olcop
Edit-----It doesen't have this type spindle, the manual states that one should grasp the rim pf the spindle pulley and hold, and use your other hand with a cloth to insert the collet and tool, then use your third hand to tighten the drawbar
oc
 
Last edited:
olcopper said:
........................................ the manual states that one should grasp the rim pf the spindle pulley and hold, and use your other hand with a cloth to insert the collet and tool, then use your third hand to tighten the drawbar
oc
Click to expand...
I guess you use your teeth to tighten the draw bar???
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top