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4

Bridgeport Power Feed 6f Motor Mount Question

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expressline99

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#31
If you are changing the resistors that I’m thinking about? Then they went bad/smoked because your forward-reverse switches are bad. You will need two new micro switches. Don’t bother trying to clean them, BER, just buy new ones. And the trimers on the board only get turned when you tune the board to the motor, after that, they are torque sealed. And it really doesn’t mean that much in your end result of the whole shebang working. If you think that was the problem with the feed not working, it was not. And I’m not saying it wasn’t a problem, just not the one that killed your Power Feed.
Two new switches ordered. If I'm lucky I'll get to do some testing this week once parts get in.

There were 4 resistors that were waaay out of tolerance. The bad ones were rated at 18k, 27k, 300k and 2.7 million.

I hope you guys are going to help me rebuild the top end. It's quite noisy.
 

expressline99

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#33
Nope, it was not any of those resistors. Good Job.
Well the bad ones are coming out. I went through every single one on the board by de-soldering one leg on each. Making sure that I put a sharpie "dot" next to
each as I tested them. The resistors that were bad I bent the leg over that I had de-soldered which should make quick work when I get the replacements.

This board, control panel, and switch setup should be in fantastic shape once I'm done learning! :)
 

chips&more

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#34
Most of the components on that board are not value sensitive. What I mean is, if the reading you get is out of tolerance to the posted value on the component, then chances are it’s OK. You should be looking for something that is dead, no longer any good and not just out of tolerance. I would not de-solder all those resistors and other things. All those 1/2 watt resistors are the last thing on the planet that would fail on that board. What is more likely to happen is damage to the copper circuit paths from all the de-soldering. Good Luck…Dave
 

expressline99

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#35
Hey Dave, I was lucky and very careful about de-soldering I tinned and cleaned the tip of the iron every time. So no excessive heat or lingering if it didn't flow right away. I won't de-solder almost everything next time. But it's hard for me to not get excited and jump right in.

I came home today to find all my electronic goodies! It's like second Christmas! The only thing I'm disappointed in is the pot. The shaft is way too long. I'll have to dremel it to length. So I've got my new caps, switches, pot, and resistors. Hopefully I can do some dry runs...sans gearbox this weekend or perhaps tomorrow. I am thoroughly jazzed about all the parts.
 

expressline99

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#36
OK, on the motor direction switches are they adjusted to their "neutral" position? This being when the direction control handle is in neutral position.

I assume this is correct? So that the any contacts marked "NC" are closed and the "NO"s are open?
 

expressline99

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#37
Does anyone have an expanded diagram of the boehm 4640. Apparently I've got "spring" type disk and flat washer that go in some position on the non-output end of the shaft (I think) under the spring clip. I've forgotten how they go back in.

Yesterday after putting this back together and hand spinning the motor it would go in one direction but spinning backwards would cause it to catch and drag on something. I assume it was an electrical line. Or perhaps the missing spring washer. So I'm going to put the spring washer in between the two flat washers I think it fits between and put it back in. If It binds up again I'm at a loss since the output side bearing was replace. It's possible that I'm not getting the armature lined up on the bearings properly? Guess I will try again tomorrow.
Paul
 
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Rick_B

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#38
Hey Paul - don't know if you got by the preload washer issues or not - see below for what mine looked like on the output end

Motor%20Preload_zpspjzhpugt.jpg

Maybe you can help with an issue I am having regarding orientation of the clutch shaft - see next post

Thanks
Rick
 

Rick_B

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#39
So I've been pretty distracted with a variety of things going on and this is the first chance I have had to get back to this power feed. I've got the majority of the main housing re-assembled but have a question on the orientation of the clutch shaft. The clutch shaft has a woodruff key slot for the handle that I believe faces the back of the unit (assuming the access door with the sight glass is the front). This results in the drive pin hole on the clutch shaft facing the front to back. Also - at the other end - the narrow ridge faces front (this is the switch actuation end of the clutch shaft). I believe the cam detent faces the front and the large "V" that rides on the clutch arm detent roller faces right. Here's a few pictures of how I think the clutch shaft is assembled. I'm hoping someone can confirm this.

Top (handle) end
PICT0001_zpsrlim3cal.jpg

Bottom (switch actuation end)
PICT0002_zps9wduqgbg.jpg

Thanks
Rick
 

expressline99

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#40
Hey Rick, That's exactly how mine is assembled.

I've got mine assembled up to being able to test the wiring. The motor is detached from the gear housing. However, the Motor is still acting up and blowing fuses. I did get the motor to spin up but once moving the speed control wouldn't slow it down or change it's speed. Then blown fuse. I'm getting close to sending this in to someone that can handle the board and trouble shoot it and the wiring. I can't see that I'm any closer than I was when I started. :(


Paul
 
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Rick_B

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#41
Thanks for the verification Paul - wish I could help you with the electrical side but you've already exceeded my knowledge and skills in that area.

Mine was working fine before I started playing with it - hopefully I won't introduce any issues :)

Rick
 

expressline99

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#42
I appreciate the good thoughts Rick. :) I'm sure yours will be good to go.

So should I be figuring out how to measure the output of power from the board to the motor while turning the new pot I put on there?

Anyone have any idea what to test next? Before I throw $500 more at fixing this part. Probably without any direction I will start throwing money at it. Because I'm getting worn out on what should be something simple and my patience can only go so far. >insert grumbling here then ignore it<

To recap current problem: I turn the on switch on. Pilot light turns on. I switch into gear and turn the pot. The motor doesn't start moving until I'm up to probably 25% 30% of speed. Once it starts turning the pot has no effect on speed and will not stop the motor from turning even if turned all the way down. If you turn the pot all the way up or somewhere near full speed it blows the fuse. Note the motor is not mounted to the gear box so there is no load on it.

Thanks, Paul
 

expressline99

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#43
OK so quick question as I'm still slowly messing with this. Whenever I get a few minutes. I've got a guide for things to test on the motor. Can someone clarify on testing the resistance on several points of the armature. If I understand it correctly it's tested by probing each brush while mounted..(cover screw taken out of course)... Looking for 1 ohm across. Then turning it to a different spot and doing the same. Will this accomplish the 180 degree offset between contacts on the armature? Or should I just take the thing apart for this testing?

I checked the field winding's and they aren't shorted to the casing so I assume the insulator/shellac/varnish(whatever that coating is) is still OK. Also I get close to the 500 ohm reading across the winding's (lead to lead). This with everything else pulled from the center casing.

Everything I see says motor is OK...

Still grinding at this until it's further exhausted.

Paul
 
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expressline99

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#44
This is the last time I put this motor together....I'm not going to do it again. Today. I've spent time messing with the switches and I've determined that they are adjusted fine. But I was getting odd readings with the wiring hooked up. So it might be wiring. I think the previous owner did some adjustment wiring.... So I will be rewiring next. I hope that is the end of it.
Paul
 

expressline99

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#45
OK so after making sure all wires are properly attached to the switches. I'm getting proper ohm readings at idle position and if the wires are disconnected from the switch terminals. If either plunger is depressed the opposite switch has a reading of 552 ohms +/- all direction I read state it should either be Zero or infinite depending on position and never anything else. Does this mean my field windings are trash? See the picture. The motor field is connected to the Yellow and white wires to the left. (Also the board is detached while checking resistance.)
DSCN4657.JPG
 

expressline99

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#46
Could it possibly be a transistor? I put it all together today to test again. Same result. Nothing happens until I start turning the speed control up. Then it runs up I believe to full speed..if you turn the pot back down to zero nothing changes it keeps running. Then blows the fuse after a short while. The 500 +/- ohm resistance above must just be coming from the field windings from all simple deduction.
 

expressline99

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#47
Well I gave up and mailed the board into a dealer. I was getting no where on my own. >Insert personal failure and let down here<
 

expressline99

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#48
LOL so the board is fine. I either fixed it or it was already OK... So I mailed in the motor today. Gotta love it. If they tell me the motor is fine...then there isn't much left but the wiring above or the on/off switch or the fast travel button. I almost hope it's the motor just so I can move on to the next part of the rebuild.
 

expressline99

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#49
So I found out today that the armature is shorted out. So I get to buy a new one...an extra $300 plus install. I'm letting them install it just so it comes back to me working and adjusted to the board. I thought I tested it out properly but I guess I didn't understand it as well as I thought I did.
 

expressline99

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#50
I didn't realize I started this in February. Anyhow, I did get the motor and the board back months ago. What I'm looking at now is why I can't get the motor to respond aside from occasionally when I go back to neutral position. I've looked at the micro switches until I'm seeing stars! I've tried loosening them and just holding one closed while the other is open and I get nothing still (except occasionally when I release a switch I get a motor bump). Not burning fuses anymore...motor was rebuilt so that's not it and board was tested by them as well. Irritating at best!

Paul
 

Bob Korves

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#51
Test the micro switches while you operate them with the plungers. The switch plungers (not so much the micro switches themselves) get full of crud and sticky, and don't return to the full closed position. No switch contact, no motor run.
 

dlane

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#52
Where did you send it for repair ?. If it went to Fresno Ca. ******machine repair ,authorized servo dealer west cost, beware they tried not refunding me $265. For a new servo PF, after trying a off shore powerfeed that didn't work. They'll try to get over on you :mad:
 

expressline99

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#53
Test the micro switches while you operate them with the plungers. The switch plungers (not so much the micro switches themselves) get full of crud and sticky, and don't return to the full closed position. No switch contact, no motor run.
I pulled them out and apparently I had changed them so they are new. Both close and open the NC and NO circuits as they are supposed to.
Where did you send it for repair ?. If it went to Fresno Ca. ******machine repair ,authorized servo dealer west cost, beware they tried not refunding me $265. For a new servo PF, after trying a off shore powerfeed that didn't work. They'll try to get over on you :mad:
I sent to icai in Florida. I only sent them the board...which they said tested fine. Then I sent the motor and they repaired it...that set of repairs and shipping was over $500
The gear housing I did not send in. So now its probably my fault somewhere. :(

Paul
 

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#54
Just a shot in the dark. Are you using the right line voltage??? 110 - 220 single phase or three phase. Shorted wire who knows , sounds weird .
 

expressline99

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#55
Just a shot in the dark. Are you using the right line voltage??? 110 - 220 single phase or three phase. Shorted wire who knows , sounds weird .
Yeah it's 110 single. Diagram even shows. The motor is a DC of course. I'm pretty close to sending the entire thing in again except this time with gearbox and all.

Paul :(
 

expressline99

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#56
OK I got resolution. After breaking a lot of wires and re-soldering new connections. I determined that the new speed control pot had two wires reversed...oddly enough It apparently doesn't "twist" in the same direction. Doesn't make much sense that it wouldn't work the way it was but.. It works now except the knob runs reverse of what the feed IPM should be....so lowest position on the panel is the fastest feed rate. Anyway, it will run.

The next problem I encountered was not getting the gear to engage in reverse. There is a cam lever with a roller on it that pushes the gear in and out of engagement. It's not immediately obvious that the cam on the end is adjustable. However, it's mounted in a slot. Loosening the nut on the bottom allows for this to be moved in and out as needed. It took me several tries to align it correctly. Also having the socket head screw that mounts the "cam arm" not completely tight helps with the amount of movement needed to engage the gears.

Thank goodness I'll be able to finally mount this power feed.

Paul
 

chips&more

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#57
A potentiometer (pot) typically has three connections. One is the wiper and the other two are each end of the total resistance of the pots spec. If you have a direction problem with the pot in operation. Try reversing the two resistance connections. These are typically the two outside connections. The one in the middle of all three is probably the wiper. If not sure, easy enough to find out with an ohm meter…Dave
 

expressline99

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#58
A potentiometer (pot) typically has three connections. One is the wiper and the other two are each end of the total resistance of the pots spec. If you have a direction problem with the pot in operation. Try reversing the two resistance connections. These are typically the two outside connections. The one in the middle of all three is probably the wiper. If not sure, easy enough to find out with an ohm meter…Dave
I can try again. But when the outer two were reversed before it wasn't moving at all. Except for the occasional bump when turning to neutral on the switches.

Paul
 

chips&more

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#59
I can try again. But when the outer two were reversed before it wasn't moving at all. Except for the occasional bump when turning to neutral on the switches.

Paul
Paul, take the pot out of the circuit and check with an ohm meter, make sure it’s good. Even if new, still check it...Dave
 
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