Beginning hobbyist lathe options-first post!!!

Just a suggestsoin, PM lathes with a T as a suffix were made in Tiwan, without the T, China, there are those who will tell you a PM lathe made in China is noticabvle better than most other brands made in China. Matt (PM) specifies tolerances and holds to them.
 
PM 1440BV with DRO. Chinese but bigger, heavier and Variable speed ?? Thoughts on this model from PM?
 
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There are easy and fairly inexpensive ways to deal with 3 phase. I don't like electrical work and I was able to install a VFD on my 3 phase mill. There are many people on this site who can walk you through a VFD or phase converter set up.

Many people avoid 3 phase because they don't understand it so you can often get a lower price on what is technically a better machine just because people are scared of "3 phase". The money you save will most likely be more than the cost of the VFD or converter.
 
You are on a very slippery slope - "for just a few more $$, you can get . . . . . more." Unless you are really focused on small items, then I (as most folks here) recommend getting the larger machine (subject to space and ability to manage weight and power). Granted, bigger is not always better - there are limits. For general mucking around, turning stuff - a 16" lathe would not be "too big", going to 18 or even 20" swing, while still fine for making 1/8" pins may get to be a pain. The 14" lathe is not going to be "too big". That is a very useful size machine. The 1236T that you mentioned is probably a very nice machine - what I don't really like is the speed range - the bottom end at 90rpm is too fast if you have something large enough to take the gap out, and 1600rpm is a little slow for a small item (though I hardly ever run over 1000rpm, so not a show stopper). Of course a VFD will fix both those issues - but why not start with a machine that is better set up to start with.

Personally, I like 1440BV speed range better, and it is already variable. The 2" spindle bore would be a big step up over the 1.56" of your other option. The carriage, toolpost mount and tailstock don't look very robust. The 1440HD is much more robust, but the long headstock may be a show stopper for you (and doesn't have a 2" spindle bore). How long do you need between centers? 40" is a useful size, but consider your needs and whether you are going to needs something longer. Remember 40" is the absolute maximum, when you add a lathe chuck, or add a drill chuck in the tailstock it eats up those 40" - in practical terms you will lose about 10" of useful bed in tooling.

I think you are taking the right approach to ask people their opinion (you'll get plenty of that here). So my opinion is that you should look at the features more than the brand sticker.

There is no "ideal" lathe - or any other machine for that matter. If you do end up taking this hobby seriously, you'll end up with a quite a few machines and the reason is because certain machines work better for certain tasks. My first lathe was a 15", 30 years later I got an 11" and I'd love to get a 20-22" swing machine. I do general mucking around machining - I use the 15" lathe way, way, way more than the 11" (and the 11" is a well tooled, top quality piece of old English iron that is in excellent condition, compared to the 15" that is also well tooled /in good condition offshore knock off).

I suggest you pour as much cash as you can manage into the basic machine (whether you lean more towards larger or towards higher quality depends on your needs) - because those are things that you can't fix later. Addons, such as tooling, DRO, VFD etc you can sort out as you wish or "need". Wanting a bigger spindle bore, a larger swing etc is very hard to do much about.

Let us know how you make out. David
 
There's another dimension that makes a big difference. How fast do you 'need' to start making chips? Instant gratification tends to increase risk and costs a lot more. I bought my first 12X37 lathe in 1980, for just over 2K$. I used it for nearly 40 years before buying a 1440, used, out of frustration. Not a great deal at just over 4K$. Last year I bought my ultimate lathe, a 15X60 LeBlond, showroom condition, with 2k$ of tooling, for less than the other lathes combined. It took patience, and having the money set aside to pounce.

Used doesn't have to be wrecked. Used can be showroom condition. Showroom lathes can be crap. There is an element of risk in any purchase. - Buying a lathe to later upgrade is also fairly costly and stressful. I've been there with both lathes and mills.

What do I recommend? What you plan to do with your lathe will dictate what you should buy. If you can't afford it, you have to save more. If you have a thriving used market in your area, or have good social skills, you can promote friendships with machine shop owners - you can get a great lathe that way. getting a good used lathe will save a lot of money, but takes even more patience and skill to get a really good one. You might find one of our senior members in your area and pick their brain.

I'm done turning barrels, but my experience is that a 12X36 lathe is too small and light to work on barrels effectively. -I know it CAN be done. but it isn't an enjoyable way to work on chambers and crowns. I'll never -ever- contour a barrel blank after rifling (again). The times I've tried it - the accuracy was complete garbage, a waste of money. All my target barrels are cut rifled after profiling, Then I cut the threads, crown and chamber. Those operations can be done on a 12X36 -if- your through hole on your spindle is large enough, or your barrel is short enough.
 
3ph v 1ph. I personally don't think it's very important., My own lathe is a 1216 from Taiwan, similar to the 12XX T range from PM. I could of got it with a 3 ph motor but chose not too,. BTW I have 3 ph available in my shop, I just didn't see the point The 1.5 HP single ph motor is quite strong enough for me, It is after all a hobby machine, Of course in an industrial capacity a 3ph machine might be better.

I have seen many people on this and other forums decry single phase machines for poor finish. Now I have been around machines all my life, I trained as a Fitter & Turner/Tool Maker in the early 60's and I have never seen this poor single phase finish that some speak of. for my money I would definitely go the taiwanese machine no matter what brand.
 
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Thanks for all the replies. You guys have educated me vastly on the buying process. It makes good sense to me to buy as much base machine as I think I’ll ever need with the option to add features later such as DRO, tooling etc. Understanding totally the slippery slope of for a few dollars more...... I am after all a beginning hobbyist but I don’t want to learn under handicapped conditions. Keep the suggestions coming, all are very much appreciated.
 
If you are talking hobby work, then understand that you don't need all the accessories and tooling from the get go. A 3 jaw chuck, 4 jaw chuck, toolpost, live center, and some measuring tools will get you 50% of the way there with very little cost.

I have a 12x36 and have been very pleased with its size and rigidity for the hobby work that I do. I don't think you'd go wrong with one. If I were to want to work on auto or farm equipment, I would want bigger. The integral chip pan lets you use coolant which is nice. A heavy cast iron base is another big plus as it helps with rigidity and leveling the lathe. Mine is flimsy sheet metal and I hate it.

DRO is not explicitly necessary but nice to have. You should probably learn to make accurate parts before you get a DRO because just having the number in front of you doesn't replace intuition on backlash, deflection, etc. that you pick up by running it without the DRO.
 
Surface finish issues with single phase motor lathes is more common than you think, it may not be an issue for some, and some models seem to more predisposed to issues. One reason why gunsmiths historically preferred an all belt drive as opposed to a gear head design. As I indicated, the motor pulsations show up on the work surface, by increasing the mass of the drive system and using flexible motor mounts seems to improve the problem. One reason why I suggested a heavier lathe, this appears to be less of a problem and there are other features that are desirable.

You are a hobbyist, but buy once, cry once. I started out looking at 1228/1236 lathes, I ended up with a 1340GT and lather upgraded to a heavier lathe. A 1236-1440 range uses more common D1-4 or 5 chuck mounts, MT3 tailstock and usually BXA tooling, these are more common sizes and by careful purchasing you can get some good deals. Start out at whatever level you are comfortable and can budget, you can add/upgrade components as you get more experience.
 
Starting to agree with buy once cry once and get a PM 1440GT and not have any regrets. You guys are much help
 
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