Backlash Or A Different Problem ?

[rock_breaker]

I am with JimDawson, now what is going on with the nut and lead-screw? My guess is worn threads or an improperly turned replacement part. Notice I said guess!!!
Have a good day
Ray

 

[Playingwithmetal]

Well currently the machine is bolted to a .75" thick steel table. I suppose I could build something with an opening at the bottom that is the same height as the table the mill is on. And slide it onto the frame and make the adjustments from there. That is a good point you make about reaching it from the bottom. But the lead screw is still blocking the nuts from being reached. The strange thing is when the bolts are loose the table has no jump. Which I figure is because the screw and handle assembly can align the lead screw nut assembly correctly. I am pretty sure no parts are adapted on this mill. The head assembly still had bondo and paint on the seam. So it had never been tramed. I think it was used as a drill press only.

 

[JimDawson]

I looked at the pictures again, I see what you mean about the lead screw blocking the bolts. What you need is a crows foot or a distributor wrench to get to them.

 

[Playingwithmetal]

I am sorry. I guess the proper term is socket head cap screws , not hex bolts. Thie tricky part is the the Allen wrench that fits the head is a larger diameter then the gap between the lead screw and the cap screw. I am thinking maybe take it apart again remove the 2 cap screws and then take 2 standard bolt heads of larger diameter and cut off the threads and bore the center of to the outer diameter is the cap screws head on the lathe. Then insert the cap screws head through the hole in the standard bolt head and tig weld it on. Then re assemble the table with the modified screws in place but loos and do as Jim dawson said and get a distributor wrench and try to acres them that way. I'll probably build the wrench, because it will need to be a very specific shape. Is that a practical approach?
Thanks
Dylan

 

[JimDawson]

How much room do you have on the other side of the table? Room for nuts maybe?

 

[janvanruth]

an endmill will pull itself out of a collet if not tightened down enough
the same endmill will lift your table up it there is play in the ways
get rid of the play and see if the table still runs smoothly, if so you can forget about the .005 because it will be gone

 

[Playingwithmetal]

Thanks for your replies. I have taken it apart again and got a more smooth connection this time. My current lift when changing direction is now .0005. Think I can do better with this machine?

 

[JimDawson]

0.0005 is a bunch better than it was. I guess I would work on what I am calling the clamps (the bars with the three bolts) I would want those tighter. They should not allow any lift, or an absolute minimum. This is going to milling and shimming I think. Given that they are too loose, the only way I can see to do that is mill a bit off where they bolt on at. This will allow you to use the mill to do them one at a time.

Maybe assemble everything, and then use a feeler gauge to figure out how much you can take off.

 

[Paul in OKC]

If you get much closer than that half thou, I would think you would be close to binding. Leave the room for lube. If you are doing things that need that tolerance, you need more machine than what you have ! I got by my friend's place today, and his is dove tail, so no help there. If you want it closer, what Jim suggested above about milling the clamp would get you there.

 

[Playingwithmetal]

That's a great idea. Or maybe a good job my my new atlas 7 shaper. I got it for $150 but need to work on it a bit more. Thanks so much for all you help. Your experience is invaluable. And that you all take time out of your day to make thoughtful comments is very kind.
Thanks
Dylan