Are galvanised corrugated panels safe to put on the inside walls of a work shed?

[LEEQ]

If you want 4x8 sheets of Hardie soffit, you need the contractors/lumber counter. These will work on 16" layout either direction. The flooring dept will have the 3x5 sheets with squares instead of pretty wood grain. They don't work on any layout. Either way you go I think this is a great idea for fire resistant lining material) Edit-- You can get nippers from the rental counter to cut it without the cloud of concrete dust. they look like a drill with three metal fingers on front. Two remain fixed and the third moves up and down between them cutting a 1/4" path through the material.

 

[rwm]

I gotta say. Even though I used the galvanized sheets, I think cement board is a much better option for this. I wish I had used it for my foundry area but I used what I had on hand. Post some pics after you set it up.
R

 

[ome]

If you want 4x8 sheets of Hardie soffit, you need the contractors/lumber counter. These will work on 16" layout either direction. The flooring dept will have the 3x5 sheets with squares instead of pretty wood grain. They don't work on any layout. Either way you go I think this is a great idea for fire resistant lining material) Edit-- You can get nippers from the rental counter to cut it without the cloud of concrete dust. they look like a drill with three metal fingers on front. Two remain fixed and the third moves up and down between them cutting a 1/4" path through the material.

Thanks Lee,
That was my next question, how to cut without a mess.
What is the name of those nippers, does HD sell them?
we tried to burn a hardie backer board with a propane torch, and could not get it to catch fire, good stuff, thanks to everyone who helped me make the best decision.
Thanks,
Jon

 

[xalky]

You can score it with a utility knife and snap it. But that only works for straight cuts. You can use a carbide circular saw blade to cut it too. The blade won't be good for much after you're done with the job, but it's much faster, the saw won't labor as hard, and a little less dusty than an abrasive blade. Still dusty though.

 

[ome]

You can score it with a utility knife and snap it. But that only works for straight cuts. You can use a carbide circular saw blade to cut it too. The blade won't be good for much after you're done with the job, but it's much faster, the saw won't labor as hard, and a little less dusty than an abrasive blade. Still dusty though.

Thanks,
the nippers that lee mentioned they rent at home depit sound good for the 5/16" thick panels, do you know what they are called or where to buy them.
I assume a respirator with p-100 filter and goggles would be needed for any power cutting.
Thanks,
jon

 

[brav65]

Thanks Lee,
That was my next question, how to cut without a mess.
What is the name of those nippers, does HD sell them?
we tried to burn a hardie backer board with a propane torch, and could not get it to catch fire, good stuff, thanks to everyone who helped me make the best decision.
Thanks,
Jon

Jon,

The cement board can be scored and snapped like drywall. I have an old pointed carbide cutter I got somewhere that I run along a straight edge a couple of times then snap along the cut. It works great for straight cuts. The nippers work well if you have a lot of cutting to do. The joints can be sealed with thinset. I would screw the material down 24" on center as leaving it to float may allow the panels to flex and break.

 

[JimDawson]

Thanks,
the nippers that lee mentioned they rent at home depit sound good for the 5/16" thick panels, do you know what they are called or where to buy them.
I assume a respirator with p-100 filter and goggles would be needed for any power cutting.
Thanks,
jon

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-6-5-Amp-Fiber-Cement-Shear-Kit-JS8000/202265676

HD also has them for rent I think

 

[ome]

Jon,

The cement board can be scored and snapped like drywall. I have an old pointed carbide cutter I got somewhere that I run along a straight edge a couple of times then snap along the cut. It works great for straight cuts. The nippers work well if you have a lot of cutting to do. The joints can be sealed with thinset. I would screw the material down 24" on center as leaving it to float may allow the panels to flex and break.

Thanks,
do u mean a carbide scriber that looks like a pen?
I need to make cuts around each of the windows, so not all will be straight cuts.
Is it necessary to seal the joints with thinset?
how many screws in a 4 by 8 panel to keep it from flexing.
I plan on laying them down the long way , so the height of the panels will be from the floor up to 4', which is higher than any of the anvils by over a foot.
I think this should be fine for forging, But I do not know if it is high enough for forge welding and arc welding or any other type of welding I may want to learn.
The price of the panels is not cheAp so i could only afford to do the sinle panel height of 4'.
what is your advice, everyone?
thanks to all who are helping me
Jon

 

[rwm]

I would go higher than 4 ft. Probably should do 8. You don't want a spark falling in the slot between the board and the wall.
R

 

[ome]

I would go higher than 4 ft. Probably should do 8. You don't want a spark falling in the slot between the board and the wall.
R

Thanks ,
I was planning to cover the spaces between the panel and the beams, with 2 by 4's and flashing that hans over the top edges of the panel.
Do you think that would be adequate to prevent sparks from welding , getting behind the panel or inbetween the beams where it would be open , if not sealed up as i just described. Also , if hardy resource guide says no closer than 3/8 - 3/4" from board edge, how to fasten 2 boards at seam on 1 2 by 4?
Thanks in advance for any and all help,
Jon