got the mill moved into the shop and the RPC fired up. got the power feed motor to kick on but only with the rapid button. it does spin in the direction in accordance with the feed lever. but the feed lever won't move the motor by itself. I'm also having issues with the magnetic clutch getting voltage to fire when anything is engaged ..
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Anyone Have A Toolmaster Mt ?
- Thread starter shott8283
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2013
- Messages
- 5,114
Looks like the corrosion is limited to that right center area. I'm betting if you get those cleaned up and checked out for function you will have found most of your problems. The contacts inside those switches probably look like the wire terminals on the outside. Looks like a nice machine otherwise. Mike
that is my next plan of attack. when i checked the machine out nothing for the power feed would work at all.. and after hooking it up and hitting the button a couple of times it started to fire... makes me believe is a resistance issue likely caused by the terminals and wires being so corroded ... those two specific contactors pictured with the delay timers .. the left one is for the clutch and the right one is for the motor.. there is one more below that fires the rapid feed function.
going to try and label each wire and remove the entire contactor and time delay and inspect it.. at least the clutch feed function
going to try and label each wire and remove the entire contactor and time delay and inspect it.. at least the clutch feed function
anyone have any idea what the black box with 4 terminals on each corner fastened with two silver slotted screws - it sits between the disconnect and the transformer ... that seems to have the clutch wiring feed coming off it.. wondering what i should be getting for voltage off it. the clutches from I've been able to find are 110V Warner clutches. if so Im only getting 60v off the tap.
Shott, sorry about getting the party so late. I have this exact machine & I will certainly be glad to help you with what I can on trouble shooting your problem. I've been extremely busy @ work & ive had very little time to get on the forum let alone play time in the shop.
Finally! someone alive and has the same machine! there is certainly not a lot of information on the internet for this thing. let alone people posting about issues they have. thanks for the offer I will be surely picking your brain. have you been into the machine controls at all on yours?
Philco I do have one request if you find yourself with a few minutes to spare. I need to find out what voltage is supposed to be going to the clutch circuit. The clutch circuit is fed from what appears to 110V AC line voltage. before it gets to any of the contactors or time delays , it goes through a diode. I need to verify my diode is doing what its supposed to do. If you look at my picture above of the whole electrical panel, towards the top, you'll see the primary transformer and the main disconnect. Between those two there is a black rectangle fasented to the panel with two slotted screws. On each corner of that diode there is a wire on each corner. There should be a red wire and a white wire, those are the line voltage wires. on the opposite corners there are two blue wires... I need to know what voltage those blue wires carry to the clutch circuits when switched on. If you can shoot those across from one another and then from each on to ground that would be such an immense help.
There is such little information about this mill on the internet. Its incredible hard to find out stuff for it
If you don't have the time I totally understand. Thanks!
There is such little information about this mill on the internet. Its incredible hard to find out stuff for it
If you don't have the time I totally understand. Thanks!
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2014
- Messages
- 8,854
You mean this guy:
I can say that it is definitely a full-wave bridge rectifier, but I cannot say what circuit it belongs too. It converts an AC voltage to a pulsating DC voltage. Internally the component has four diodes.
A typical circuit would have a capacitor on the output of the diode bridge to smooth the ripple of the DC voltage. The DC output voltage (as measured at the "+" and "-" pins) should be approximately 1.414 times the measured AC input voltage at the other two pins. It will depend on ripple and diode voltage drop.
Another way to test it is with a DMM (digital multi-meter) with a diode range (a resistance range on a DMM may not produce enough voltage to forward bias a diode to turn it "on"). Ideally, disconnect the machine from power and test the diode bridge with all wires off so there are no parasitic paths. Each diode should read about 600mV drop when forward biased, but no leakage when reverse biased.
The wikipedia page is good:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge
to help understand the direction of the four internal diodes.
If you find it shorted or open and need to replace it look for a part marking on the side of the component. That should help lead you to a properly rated replacement. Post back with markings if you need help identifying it.
-brino
Last edited:
Brino Thanks man thats a huge help. Its a french machine so all the controls are french marked so if it does turn out to be bad Ill have to search for an acceptable replacement.
From the schematics that I have been able to read here http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2097/4489.pdf (third schematic down is the correct one for my machine and shows the diode on the right edge of the print labeled RED (french abbreviation for diode)
from what I can tell based on wire coloring it should have a input voltage of 120VAC, and the output voltage runs across a set of contactor operated time delay relays that operate two clutches (one for rapid feed and one for normal feed selection on 1 axis)
I got the controls for the motor to work correctly and found a bad TDR so I wired it straight through the NO contacts on the contactor . so now I get voltage to the clutches. Now I just need make sure Im getting the correct voltage b/c the clutch are still not fully closing (they are catching a little b/c the hand wheel twitches at first)
I don't see a capacitor downstream from the diode so Im curious if it was deleted prior or never was wired in, I don't see the symbol for a cap in the schematics.
When I get back home from work on Wednesday I will shoot out the diode. My fluke 179 has a diode function.
Again thanks man I really appreciate it.
From the schematics that I have been able to read here http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2097/4489.pdf (third schematic down is the correct one for my machine and shows the diode on the right edge of the print labeled RED (french abbreviation for diode)
from what I can tell based on wire coloring it should have a input voltage of 120VAC, and the output voltage runs across a set of contactor operated time delay relays that operate two clutches (one for rapid feed and one for normal feed selection on 1 axis)
I got the controls for the motor to work correctly and found a bad TDR so I wired it straight through the NO contacts on the contactor . so now I get voltage to the clutches. Now I just need make sure Im getting the correct voltage b/c the clutch are still not fully closing (they are catching a little b/c the hand wheel twitches at first)
I don't see a capacitor downstream from the diode so Im curious if it was deleted prior or never was wired in, I don't see the symbol for a cap in the schematics.
When I get back home from work on Wednesday I will shoot out the diode. My fluke 179 has a diode function.
Again thanks man I really appreciate it.