Anyone else get carried away with 3d printed tool storage?

Have you dried the filament? That looks nasty and high in water filament tends to look like that as well.
Pierre
You are all too advanced…no dryer…

I am playing with a steel nozzle and carbon fiber filament…

As mentioned, it is a very old printer… A clone of the Makerbot Replicator…made by QIDI.

D8F94D62-A2C6-44DE-89DD-9DC3F2E72576.jpeg


I will switch to the other print head that has, I believe, a spool of PLA…but I had to drive over to Orlando today… I will try again next week.

A forum member was kind enough to offer to print the parts while I sort out the printer issues. :encourage:
 
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Don't give up on that printer! It's probably a winner, you just need to get it dialed in. If you're really using a steel nozzle, you might have to bump your temps to the higher side because steel isn't as good at conducting heat as brass.

Also, have I mentioned hairspray? ;-)~

GsT
 
This gives you an idea of how mine prints out of the box. I just designed it and hit print. It’s a prototype of how I want to build my solid tool post mount. I love these printers for mocking up things before making them.

IMG_2311.jpeg
 
Don't give up on that printer! It's probably a winner, you just need to get it dialed in. If you're really using a steel nozzle, you might have to bump your temps to the higher side because steel isn't as good at conducting heat as brass.

Also, have I mentioned hairspray? ;-)~

GsT
You are definitely right about the hairspray. After ruining a sheet on the first try, over-adhesion, I wised up to hairspray. It really works.
 
I didn't know anything about 3d printers and from learning about people's frustration with them (constantly having to adjust this or that) I went with a Creality CR-6se from Tiny Machines in Houston. It came all set up from them and tested, just basically plugged it in and started printing. No problems at all for over 1 year. But, I have a still a lot to learn about the slicer and the different filaments.
I agree they are very frustrating. I have a Creality Ender V2. Getting the temperatures correct, the nozzle speed and distance, the filament feed etc. Just when you think you have cracked it the print comes off the bed just before the print finishes. Then when you change filaments even down to using the same filament but from a different manufacturer everything changes. I think I have used more filament producing scrap, than usable items.
 
This gives you an idea of how mine prints out of the box. I just designed it and hit print. It’s a prototype of how I want to build my solid tool post mount. I love these printers for mocking up things before making them.

View attachment 463313
What is the filament cost for a print like that?
 
What is the filament cost for a print like that?
Just so happened to be modifying it a bit just now. My slicer says anywhere from $3.92 to $6.10 depending which infill I would use. It's a fairly large print, just over 4" x 5"x 3" tall.

Although, now thinking about it, I need to do the math. Probably better for me to look at how much filament is used and calculate based on what I actually paid. Not sure what price they use to calculate that. I'll do that and update it.

Based on the weight of the filament used according to the slicer, my cost would be 2.65 using lightning infill and $4.21 with normal 15% grid infill. This is based on me paying $16.99 for 1KG of their PETG filament.
 
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Just so happened to be modifying it a bit just now. My slicer says anywhere from $3.92 to $6.10 depending which infill I would use. It's a fairly large print, just over 4" x 5"x 3" tall.

Although, now thinking about it, I need to do the math. Probably better for me to look at how much filament is used and calculate based on what I actually paid. Not sure what price they use to calculate that. I'll do that and update it.

Based on the weight of the filament used according to the slicer, my cost would be 2.65 using lightning infill and $4.21 with normal 15% grid infill. This is based on me paying $16.99 for 1KG of their PETG filament.
Thanks for the reply!

That’s not too bad for a piece that large.
 
If you want to see price per part, most slicers have the ability. They need to calculate how much filament to use anyway, and have a spot for you to enter price/kg. If you do that, it can give you a really accurate price. This can be useful for people looking into printing in general to get an idea of costs or looking into making a part to compare manufacturing methods.

Many spools also have markings that show you the approximate amount of filament left on the roll, in grams. So you can look at the amount needed in the slicer and know if you have enough on the spool to do the job. Combined with the ability to resume prints if needed, it really can help limit waste or piles of partial spools. :)
 
If you want to see price per part, most slicers have the ability. They need to calculate how much filament to use anyway, and have a spot for you to enter price/kg. If you do that, it can give you a really accurate price. This can be useful for people looking into printing in general to get an idea of costs or looking into making a part to compare manufacturing methods.

Many spools also have markings that show you the approximate amount of filament left on the roll, in grams. So you can look at the amount needed in the slicer and know if you have enough on the spool to do the job. Combined with the ability to resume prints if needed, it really can help limit waste or piles of partial spools. :)
cura does that has the grams you can multiply by the price/gram you bought and come up with it. get a tool to join the filaments and your good to go.
 
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