Another 9" Barn Find

Well, i feel a little silly. I guess i just had to put down the purse and give it a little more muscle. I got the taper pins removed and down to removing the tiny pin holding the input shaft. I really didnt want to drill them. The felts were definitely hard packed. Now the question is if the bronze bearings should be replaced. For the cost, it would probably be a good idea.20231110_171041.jpg20231110_171054.jpg20231110_171033.jpg20231110_171021.jpg
 
do the shafts have any play in the existing bearings? If not I'd leave them as is, it is quite possible to screw up replacing them as they'll probably need to be reamed to final dimension after pressing them in and getting both sides lined up right isn't trivial. Not impossible either, but something to think about.
 
mattthemuppet2 said:
do the shafts have any play in the existing bearings? If not I'd leave them as is, it is quite possible to screw up replacing them as they'll probably need to be reamed to final dimension after pressing them in and getting both sides lined up right isn't trivial. Not impossible either, but something to think about.
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I hear you. I'll check play before jumping. There are notible scores on the one currently exposed though. I've pressed out, pressed in, and have made replacement bearings and nuts out of 932 bronze for various machines and applications over the years. Simple .005" press fit. The joy would be finding they are a stock size and do not require being made.
 
Gearbox casting washed and ready to drill and tap gally plug. Unfortunately I found a casting defect. The hole doesnt appear to be from wear or contact. And while I hate to say or use it, this is probably the right situation for JB Weld. Not critical and for aesthetic reasons can be sanded and painted to look original. On to removing and cleaning headstock, removing the handle and cross slide screw, cleaning the saddle and cleaning the bed. Still have yet to get the compound sliding. The parts and dial look good, I don't understand where it's stuck or hanging. I guess some more trial and patience is in order. Either it's crossthreaded the nut or the screw is bound that bad. I've gotten it to turn a quarter in either direction, but still remains stiff AH. Soaked it in WD and PB Blaster multiple times to no avail.

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It is kind of curious how that flaw could have made it all the way through the machining process without someone noticing it.
Your assessment and proposed solution sounds like the right process to me.
 
piper184 said:
It is kind of curious how that flaw could have made it all the way through the machining process without someone noticing it.
Your assessment and proposed solution sounds like the right process to me.
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Hard to imagine right, but yeah, no wear marks and I do not see what would have made contact. There may have been some really light slag covering the opening and just appeared thin at some point?? I don't think it really effects anything either way as it is thin there on all the castings, I believe.
 
I figured i would take some before and then after photos of the headstock and area it resided on ways. Curious to see the original finish under the headstock. Getting closer. Looking better.
. And then there is the floor mounted jackshaft/motor assembly. Everything moves at least on the floor mount.
Going to replace the wire lathe with like, but most of the mechanical seems good. I may also be able to save the drum switch cover and rebuild or replace internals. I am planning on needing to replace motor, but believe it or not, even the oldest grungiest electric motor can surprise you. One of the original oil gits is missing a cap and i will need to source that.
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Do not know what was spilled on lathe bed, but it unfortunately did do some damage. there are some deeper pits. I think I heard they are good for way oil retention? Trying to stay glass half full.
Spent this morning sandblasting and definitely need a compressor upgrade over my 29gal. Dewalt. Loud isn't the word and it needs more than 5-7scfm. Been looking for a decnt 60gal or 80gal with 10scfm+. Hopefully soon.
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Please do not spend $20 on spanner bit for your cross slide disassembly. Buy a set of impact bits from Amazon and make your own for less than $10. Belt sander to slim the flat and a die grinder or dremel with 3" cut off wheel to knotch, takes less than 10min. The Bosch Freak impact did the rest.


Totally disassembled now. Freed up the compound and disassembled, along with the cross slide.
I was able to pick up a Cambell Hausfield 60 Gal compressor and it makes a huge difference in bead blasting.
Time to finish parts washing, clean/hone the sliding surfaces, and tape for blast. I do have some marks i'd like to buff/cut out of the compound.

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