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[CNC] Anilam 3200mk Help

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95ttoplt1

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#1
Ok fellas, I got the mill home and as expected the Anilam 3200MK doesn't "power up".

I have it on the bench now and trying to trouble shoot it. The guy I got it from said it had issues with the power supply. I have it plugged into the wall, you can hear the CRT sizzle and crackle to life, but no activity from the hard drive. I did probe the wires at the hard drive and couldn't find any voltage. I did play with the emergency shutoff, but no change.

I know there is a switch on the mill to turn the CNC controller on, but does this send a signal into the controller, or simply send power to the 110v power cable?

Does anyone have any manuals explaining the operation, or wiring diagrams? I have all the student manuals, and other operation type manuals. But nothing that would be useful in trouble shooting.

Thanks
Troy
 
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JimDawson

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#2
There should be a power supply there somewhere. It should be roughly equivalent to a standard computer supply 5V+, 5V-, 12V +, 12V-, with a 120V or 240V AC input. The 5V portion of mine failed, and I just used a standard 380W ATX supply to get mine going again.

Start where the power enters the supply to make sure it is being powered up, input power should be the black and white wires (120 or 240 VAC), then see if you have voltages on the output side. If it is powered up and you had nothing at the HD connector between red and black or yellow and black, it's not looking good for the PS.

Some pictures would be helpful for us to help you.
 

95ttoplt1

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#3
Ok here is some pictures.

I really don't see anything inside the control here that looks like a power supply to me. I'm thinking it must be in the power box on the mill. Which is sealed up tight on the trailer for the moment.

The only led I see on in here when its powered up, is the one under the CRT. There are no other LED's on, or power to be found, outside the CRT containment box.

I probed the HD plug, no power, I tested the automotive looking lugs under the two cards in the control and nothing, they are listed as 12v and 5v. I'm thinking that is the power in, from the power supply in the external box. Sure seems like a silly way to wire it, but I guess things have changed in the last ten years.

20160116_193213.jpg 20160116_191518.jpg 20160116_190853.jpg 20160116_190804.jpg 20160116_193229.jpg 20160116_193218.jpg 20160116_193135.jpg 20160116_191707.jpg 20160116_191627.jpg 20160116_191552.jpg 20160116_191546.jpg 20160116_190950.jpg 20160116_190834.jpg 20160116_111910.jpg
 

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JimDawson

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#4
In picture 5 your finger is pointing to a filter cap on a power supply, but I suspect this the power for the CRT. I think you are correct, the main PS is in the main cabinet. Mine was attached to the door and was huge.
 

JimDawson

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#6
That system may have come out in 2006, but that is 80s technology, they didn't progress much I guess.

Looks like that machine is well wrapped, should be nice and dry!:) Nice trailer!
 

95ttoplt1

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#7
That system may have come out in 2006, but that is 80s technology, they didn't progress much I guess.

Looks like that machine is well wrapped, should be nice and dry!:) Nice trailer!
Yes sir! Oiled down with iso 46 hydraulic oil, shrink wrapped, then tarped and taped. That's what it looks like after 500 miles, the same as when we left.
 

95ttoplt1

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#8
I'm going to get it powered up and see if it works. If so the CRT is going the way of the dodo.
 

JimDawson

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#9
I'm going to get it powered up and see if it works. If so the CRT is going the way of the dodo.
That may not be as easy as you think, I'm pretty sure that is not a VGA monitor, but rather a terminal. In other words an active part of the computer connected via a serial link. I could be wrong on this, but mine was a terminal. I'll need to see some panel pictures when when you get the mill into your shop. I'll be able to compare yours to pictures of mine.
 

95ttoplt1

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#10
Yeah I didn't see a USB haha

I did see a little plug on the back of what I ASSumed was a video card. It looked like a S video but I'm sure it wasn't.
 

derf

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#12
You won't find a USB port.....only a floppy drive. I got my 3000M 3X back in 2008, and they didn't have it for an option then. In 2012 they offered a SD card reader as standard on new models but it was a $750.00 retro-fit for older models. And... you had to send them the console for installation.
 

95ttoplt1

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You won't find a USB port.....only a floppy drive. I got my 3000M 3X back in 2008, and they didn't have it for an option then. In 2012 they offered a SD card reader as standard on new models but it was a $750.00 retro-fit for older models. And... you had to send them the console for installation.
Sorry, sarcasm doesn't translate well. You would never guess this machine was made in 2006. 1990 sure, when the small floppy disks became the new hotness. The USB remark was tongue in cheek.

Its not surprising to see they discontinued the Anilam line. Its seems like the last few years they were trying to use up components they bought too much of, instead of continuing the progression of the technology.

I did find a power supply, I just need to finish a Turbo VW build this week and I'll have the time to unload the mill and tear into the power supply issues. I got my tooling cleaned up as well.

This round of single digit temps hasn't helped any progress. My shop is heated, with a torpedo heater, but not insulated. It will burn through $40 worth of fuel in half a day of working in these temps.

If I was to move on from this control, what components would I need to replace it? A decent monitor, pendant, and ??? Links would be nice if anyone has BTDT.
 

JimDawson

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#14
Burrrrr! That's too cold to work! I have the same heating system in my shop and it's expensive when it's really cold.

For a basic controller system, all you need is a standard computer, your choice of monitor, a keyboard and a mouse. Add to that a motion controller that will output a +/- 10V analog signal to your servo drive amps, and software that will run the whole thing. Beyond that the sky is the limit. In your case I would use the existing servo motors and amps (drives). They are very robust and trouble free.

Mach3 is probably the most popular controller software, is pretty well supported and cheap. For a motion controller, Galil Motion Control products are my preferred systems. Galil plays OK with Mach3. Currently the Mach3 Galil plug-in supports both Ethernet and USB connections, as well as PCI bus connections with Galil. Last I heard, they are still working on the Mach4 plug-in for Galil, and it was not ready as of about 6 months ago.

These are the current top-of-the-line controllers Galil controllers

http://www.galilmc.com/motion-controllers/multi-axis/dmc-40x0

http://www.galilmc.com/motion-controllers/multi-axis/dmc-18x6

http://www.machsupport.com/software/

There are a number of used Galil controllers available on Ebay, but know what you buying. I will be happy to help evaluate anything you find.

We installed Mach3/Galil on Alloy's Shizouka AN S, it works OK for all normal machine functions, but I'm having some issues with the tool changer functionality. Had it running G-code within about an hour of firing it up the first time. http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/shizouka-an-s-build.33868/ This build is crazy complicated and not a normal conversion. We started with a blank canvas and built the entire system from the ground up. Includes a 24 station tool changer, and a very strange spindle speed control system. I did the design and programming, and Alloy did all the work ;)

On the other hand, I did the conversion on my machine right in the middle of a job when one of my encoders failed. About 12 hours and I had it up and running again. Didn't even take the setup off of the table. My software is absolutely free, but it will only work with Galil products, and will only run on WinXP until I figure out the comms for later Windows versions.

There are a number of other options available, most are expensive IMHO, and I don't know much about them.
 

derf

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Take a close look at the servo motors. When I got mine converted in 2008, Anilam just went to AC servos. Supposedly more responsive, and mounted slightly different from the DC type. I don't know if it would make any difference, but might put a kink in a low cost conversion.
 

JimDawson

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#17
Wouldn't make a bit of difference as long as the drives will accept a +/- 10V command signal. Pretty sure the DC motors are round, and the AC motors are square.
 

JimDawson

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#20
Those are DC servos then. Probably using Fenner drives and Baldor motors.
 

95ttoplt1

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#21
Got the controller powered up!

I got a ATX power supply and tapped in at the power board. Couple other issues now of course.

When it boots this is the screen I get. CMOS failure.
20160202_193944.jpg

I decided to try and boot anyway, and this is what I got

20160202_193823.jpg

I felt and the hard drive isn't spinning that I can feel. FWIW I did look and here is the LED's lit up inside the control. I measured power at the HD plug and get nothing. The power I supplied into the board was +12VDC, -12VDC, +5vdc, GND.

20160202_193711.jpg

20160202_193716.jpg

As you can see I have tapped directly into where power is supplied in the control.

Any ideas on how to proceed with the CMOS failure? I went into set up and got this scary little screen.

20160202_194010.jpg

Should I do this?

Also the screen is dim, These pictures are in the dark with the brightness up all the way.
 

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JimDawson

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#22
I think you can get away with the default values. The battery probably went dead from sitting for so long, and the setup was lost.
 

95ttoplt1

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#23
Did that and that seemed to fix the CMOS issue. I still get the diskette A error, and fail to boot.

I did change the boot option from {A: then C:} to {C: then A:} with no luck. I took an extra plug off the PSU and hooked directly to the HD and it powered up. But still no operating system found, and I noticed its not recognizing the HD now, which is was before the CMOS reset. Any idea?

20160202_193828.jpg
 

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JimDawson

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#24
Depending on how old the BIOS is, it might auto setup the HD if you navigate to that screen, and select auto. Then save and exit. If it's really old, then you may have to tell it the size, sectors, and cylinders. That data should be on the HD if needed.
 

95ttoplt1

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#25
hmm. I'm far from a computer guru. I'm not seeing anywhere to fix the HD issue. Here are the three pages of setup I am seeing.

20160202_204433.jpg
20160202_204438.jpg
20160202_204442.jpg
 

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JimDawson

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#26
Try setting the IDE Adapter 0 Master to AUTO

At least it sees the floppy drive now.


Man, do those screens bring back some memories. ;)
 
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95ttoplt1

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#27
Jim YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!

20160202_211903.jpg

20160202_211922.jpg

It obviously says it cant find the movement something, but that's expected as they are on the trailer, and this is on the kitchen table.

Now to learn how to drive this thing!
 

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JimDawson

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#28
That is cool! :cheer:

The good news is that I think that is a VGA monitor. If you can figure out where it's plugged in at, you should be able to replace it with a flat screen.
 

derf

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#30
I pretty sure mine has a flat screen, the camera makes it look like a crt. Looks very similar.
scrnsht.jpg
scrnshot2.jpg
 
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