Advice on shop build...

The metal building and condensation should not be an issue. The factor that would affect it is of course the indoor air quality, such as moisture level in the air. You are in a different area of the country so I would assume cooling load is greater than heating load. Up here, if we have more than about 40% humidity in the winter, one can expect some moisture issues around windows and doors, but if a vapor barrier is properly applied, it should not be an issue. Speaking of vapor barrier, the closed cell foam is the vapor barrier so none needed.
If I were you, I would look at doing fiberglass batts, but making sure the installation is done properly. For example, if there are wires running through the walls, you must split the batts to go on both sides of the wires. Here is a good video on how to do it properly... This old house fiberglass install.

The bubble wrap type of product that you linked is, in my opinion, a scam. There are ways that they can claim their R-value, but it does not work in real world applications in my opinion.

40% humidity sounds like a dream. Here in Georgia, the LOWEST we get is 40%, and that is mid afternoon, in the morning it usually 80%, whith about half the year at 90%. When I go out to the pole barn in the morning, the condensation can be so bad you can see the little drops of water all over the surface of the roof. I didn't do any insulation in there because the top half of the stall are open. The steel building contractors and pole barn contractors all are telling me I need insulation to prevent condensation if I fully enclose it and want to air condition it, because am dew point is 70-75 degrees. Of course AC will also decrease the humidity inside, so that will help too, I hope.

Have you looked into SIP's. Structural insulated panels. They have OSB on both sides with foam in the middle. They come in a variety of widths starting at I believe 4 1/2". Construction goes very quickly. Here are some videos to give you an idea on how they go together.

I looked into the SIPs first, and the insullam product kind of as an off shoot of that. I talked to a couple of SIPs producer/suppliers and they basically told me they weren't competative, because after you put up the walls, you still need a sheathing on the outside. The Insullam product was my way initial thought as to how to do a SIP, utilizing the steel wall for the outside. I haven't found an SIP that does steel on the outside and wood on the inside, though I have found one that does steel for both. But the Insullam is only an R14 with 4 inches of foam and 5/8 sheet.

Currently, I'm thinking of using some kind of combination vapour/radiant barrier between the metal sheeting and the frame (it ranges from $0.25-0.45 per square foot) followed by fiberglass, and 0SB or plywood.... but still researching all of this.
 
My shop is in a 40 x 96 pole barn. Shop occupies the front 40 x 32 with a 40 x 24 "annex". I used 6" kraft paper batts in the walls. Have 12" of batts in the ceiling (only have a ceiling over the shop area). The main outside door is a 16' slider which is 2 x 4 construction on the flats. That has 1 1/2" styrofoam in it and is my weak link. Doesn't seal well to the walls and can be a challenge to open in the winter.

If I was doing it again from scratch, I'd look at a roll up insulated door. My father in law has two in his shop. In my case, I don't open the slider much if at all in the winter. I've thought about remaking the slider to a 2x4 panel on edge to get some extra insulation. Or easier, just make some panels from styrofoam and attach them to the door in the winter.

My shop barn started life with a shingled roof, but was reroofed in steel. The steel is on synthetic tar paper over 7/16" osb. No condensation at all. The back 40x40 is a steel roof over perlins and there is a fair amount of condensation off it. There are drip spots on the dirt floor where the condensation runs off the perlins.

The insulated shop is very comfortable in the summer when it's 90F outside, gets up to maybe 80F. Annex is at 90+ so +1 on the insulation. I have two ceiling fans that run 24/7 in the shop and very little if any problems with rust. I'll be installing a 125,000 btu overhead heater by this fall.

Bruce
The doors are a big consideration - both size, insulation and type. I think I want doors that are 12 ft wide. Maneuvering large ag equipment through anything less than 12 ft is difficult. 12 isn't bad, 14 is probably better. Not sure if 2 large doors is better, or 3 smaller doors. I suspect that going to 50 ft wide would be needed to do 3 doors, and doors are expensive, so probably 2 doors 12-14 ft wide is where I will end up. Right now, the over-all layout will look something like this: (this is 40x60 and I've drawn it with 3 doors, but I don't think thre 10ft doors is the right answer)
 

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Vapor barrier ALWAYS goes on the inside of the building. If you put it between the steel and the framing, you will end up with water at that point and if there is insulation against it, the insulation will get wet.
Controlling condensation is all about controlling indoor air moisture, insulation (the more you have, the less condensation is an issue) and proper placement of the vapor barrier.
SIP panels can easily have steel placed on the outside. Don't think of it as a monolithic build, but rather as a multi-system.

If you want, I would be glad to talk to you. I would normally say that I am not expert, but after building my last 2 houses and talking to contractors, I have realized that I know far more than most builders. I should really do consulting. LOL
 
I would agree on door size. A little different size requirement than you but I put 10 foot wide doors for all of my overheads. Standard is 8 foot width residential and I don't know how I would get my Ram truck in and out of there without folding the mirrors.

As far as the door itself, Schweiss Bi-fold doors might be worth looking into. I believe they are made in Minnesota and they have been in business for a very long time. When I was part of the team for building a new airport, I think we bought 25 doors from them at once. One of them was 80 foot wide.
I see now that they are utilizing straps instead of cables for the lift system. Schweiss Bifold doors
 
I hope this all makes sense to you ArmyDoc. I went back and proof read some of my stuff and found some mistakes. I suffered a serious injury 5 weeks or so ago and still having an issue with words and sentences.
 
I did closed cell spray foam, the recommended product for steel buildings. 2" in walls and 3" on ceiling. The standard is 1" for walls and 2" on ceiling. My bill was $9,600 Then I went around the bottom 8' with 3/4" plywood painted white to mount electrical and other stuff. The building is 40x60x12. I am very happy with it. It is now air conditioned with a 5 ton heat pump.
 
I did closed cell spray foam, the recommended product for steel buildings. 2" in walls and 3" on ceiling. The standard is 1" for walls and 2" on ceiling. My bill was $9,600 Then I went around the bottom 8' with 3/4" plywood painted white to mount electrical and other stuff. The building is 40x60x12. I am very happy with it. It is now air conditioned with a 5 ton heat pump.

The closed cell will give you about 6.5-7 of R-value per inch. Up here R-19 is minimum for walls, but obviously I am in a heating zone. So, 3" of foam would certainly give you an R-value of 20+.
 
Vapor barrier ALWAYS goes on the inside of the building. If you put it between the steel and the framing, you will end up with water at that point and if there is insulation against it, the insulation will get wet.
Controlling condensation is all about controlling indoor air moisture, insulation (the more you have, the less condensation is an issue) and proper placement of the vapor barrier.
SIP panels can easily have steel placed on the outside. Don't think of it as a monolithic build, but rather as a multi-system.

If you want, I would be glad to talk to you. I would normally say that I am not expert, but after building my last 2 houses and talking to contractors, I have realized that I know far more than most builders. I should really do consulting. LOL

Now I'm confused. All of the steel metal buildings are putting the radiant and vapor barrier insulation between the outer skin and the support structure. Check this site - there's a picture about 3/4 of the way down, right before the conclusion which is pretty much what I am envisioning. https://gensteel.com/building-faqs/building-customizations/insulation-options/

I would agree on door size. A little different size requirement than you but I put 10 foot wide doors for all of my overheads. Standard is 8 foot width residential and I don't know how I would get my Ram truck in and out of there without folding the mirrors.

As far as the door itself, Schweiss Bi-fold doors might be worth looking into. I believe they are made in Minnesota and they have been in business for a very long time. When I was part of the team for building a new airport, I think we bought 25 doors from them at once. One of them was 80 foot wide.
I see now that they are utilizing straps instead of cables for the lift system. Schweiss Bifold doors

Oh man, those look great! I would love to do the Schweis Bifold doors! Unfortunately, I think they are between $6500 and $7500 a piece. Can't find prices on their site, but found some other bifold doors in that range...

I hope this all makes sense to you ArmyDoc. I went back and proof read some of my stuff and found some mistakes. I suffered a serious injury 5 weeks or so ago and still having an issue with words and sentences.

Oh no! I hope you are ok, and recover quickly.
 
I did closed cell spray foam, the recommended product for steel buildings. 2" in walls and 3" on ceiling. The standard is 1" for walls and 2" on ceiling. My bill was $9,600 Then I went around the bottom 8' with 3/4" plywood painted white to mount electrical and other stuff. The building is 40x60x12. I am very happy with it. It is now air conditioned with a 5 ton heat pump.
That is good to know! Your weather is probably very similar to mine. What kind of closed cell spray foam did you use? Is there a specific type that is recommended for steel buildings? It would sure be simpler to use one product and application rather than two...
 
Depending on size / layout / uses of shop, consider a back door or window as an emergency escape.
 
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