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BRIAN
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HI ifredaj
I get my brass from IAN T COB in the UK but that is a long way from you. Postage may be just to high?
BRIAN.
I get my brass from IAN T COB in the UK but that is a long way from you. Postage may be just to high?
BRIAN.
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BRIAN
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The next drawings
More of my poor drawing efforts ! only I could make 1/4 " larger than 7/16" sorry...
BRIAN.
More of my poor drawing efforts ! only I could make 1/4 " larger than 7/16" sorry...
BRIAN.
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BRIAN
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The Dial
When you get to this stage you realy are getting near to the finish
to engrave the minute divisions some method of dividing is required.
the blank can be screwed to a wooden face plate as in the photo.
The dial posts are shown mounted on the front plate.when fixing the dial feet to the dial, the feet are placed in the posts and a small dot of epoxy placed on the top, the dial is then placed into position. a card disk placed on the minute shaft provides the alignment.
When you get to this stage you realy are getting near to the finish
to engrave the minute divisions some method of dividing is required.
the blank can be screwed to a wooden face plate as in the photo.
The dial posts are shown mounted on the front plate.when fixing the dial feet to the dial, the feet are placed in the posts and a small dot of epoxy placed on the top, the dial is then placed into position. a card disk placed on the minute shaft provides the alignment.
Hello Brian,
Things have been a bit slow here lately busy with life situations,I've got my lathe need to make a bench for it would like to get a set of qctp for it.
Some half hard brass will arrive soon got it on Trademe New Zealand version of Ebay will have a go at the grand wheel first see how it goes. Will be
a few weeks of yet.
Thanks.
Things have been a bit slow here lately busy with life situations,I've got my lathe need to make a bench for it would like to get a set of qctp for it.
Some half hard brass will arrive soon got it on Trademe New Zealand version of Ebay will have a go at the grand wheel first see how it goes. Will be
a few weeks of yet.
Thanks.
B
BRIAN
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Hi ifreaj
Good news I am at this moment puting together A new thread on cutting clock gears so it mAy be out before you start making chips,
If not, the best advice I can give is dont pay attention to figures given for the depth of the tooth.
I folow the advice of John Wilding . Cut two adjacent teeth gradualy until the tip meets in a point
, then lock up the unused slides, and cut the the remaining teeth at that setting. I cannot reach the high speeds he recomends( 4000 rpm ) but I get along quite well with 1500 Just feed a bit slower.
If you require any help feel free to ask.
BRIAN.
Good news I am at this moment puting together A new thread on cutting clock gears so it mAy be out before you start making chips,
If not, the best advice I can give is dont pay attention to figures given for the depth of the tooth.
I folow the advice of John Wilding . Cut two adjacent teeth gradualy until the tip meets in a point
, then lock up the unused slides, and cut the the remaining teeth at that setting. I cannot reach the high speeds he recomends( 4000 rpm ) but I get along quite well with 1500 Just feed a bit slower.
If you require any help feel free to ask.
BRIAN.
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BRIAN
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Pallet arms
I think this is the last part that is different from the begineers clock. the pallets are held in place with locktite
similar to most of the joints on this clock.
I think this is a better looking version.
Next thing is a mod to the drive assembly.
I had a problem with the bronze cable, the lay of the cable was causing it to twist as it ran over the centering roller sometimes this was so bad it caused the clock to stop!
Also SWMBO did not like it when the drive weight came near the floor as it got in her way when cleaning..
These problems have been cured by replacing the cable with monofiliment fishing line and adding a pully to the system,
and removing the centering roller.
Normally adding a pully would require the drive weight to be doubled,
but the improvement in smoothness has meant only a small increase was necessary.
Overall I think this has improved the general appearance.
Regards BRIAN.
View attachment 94966
I think this is the last part that is different from the begineers clock. the pallets are held in place with locktite
similar to most of the joints on this clock.
I think this is a better looking version.
Next thing is a mod to the drive assembly.
I had a problem with the bronze cable, the lay of the cable was causing it to twist as it ran over the centering roller sometimes this was so bad it caused the clock to stop!
Also SWMBO did not like it when the drive weight came near the floor as it got in her way when cleaning..
These problems have been cured by replacing the cable with monofiliment fishing line and adding a pully to the system,
and removing the centering roller.
Normally adding a pully would require the drive weight to be doubled,
but the improvement in smoothness has meant only a small increase was necessary.
Overall I think this has improved the general appearance.
Regards BRIAN.
View attachment 94966
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BRIAN
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Its been a long time getting to this job, but the clòock needs a cover it just dont like dust and I have to keep cleaning the movement.
So glass with a brass frame seems like a good idea
Always keen to by new tools so I got a angle clamp.
Great but it only holds two strips I nead to hold three, so I made a few mods .
And this was the result.
Seven more to go.
Brian.
So glass with a brass frame seems like a good idea
Always keen to by new tools so I got a angle clamp.
Great but it only holds two strips I nead to hold three, so I made a few mods .
And this was the result.
Seven more to go.
Brian.