3 or 4 jaw chuck to start?

I agree with most the you should get a 4 jaw chuck first. Get a 4 jaw as large as will fit your lathe and learn how to set up to run true. When you can afford a three jaw, buy a quality chuck. Cheap or poorly made tools will need to be replaced. Just me 2 cents worth.
 
Note that there is a big difference in weight between 6 and 8 inch chucks. As much as double the weight is possible depending on build.

Bernie
 
Check www.shars.com for the 6", 4J. Ebay Too. Don't forget to order a backplate. Also, please keep in mind that any backplate you buy will be slighly oversized and will require custom fitting on both sides and the edges...


Ray


Greggski said:
How are the South Bend Chucks? There is this one at the Grizzly showroom just north of my house.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-4-Jaw-Ind-Chuck-D1-4/SB1225

Also, i have been looking for a D1-4, 6" 4 jaw chuck, but have only seen the 8". Is a 6 inch not a typical size with this mount?
Click to expand...

- - - Updated - - -

Check www.shars.com for the 6", 4J. Ebay Too. Don't forget to order a backplate. Also, please keep in mind that any backplate you buy will be slighly oversized and will require custom fitting on both sides and the edges...


Ray


Greggski said:
How are the South Bend Chucks? There is this one at the Grizzly showroom just north of my house.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-4-Jaw-Ind-Chuck-D1-4/SB1225

Also, i have been looking for a D1-4, 6" 4 jaw chuck, but have only seen the 8". Is a 6 inch not a typical size with this mount?
Click to expand...
 
You'll do better if you find a direct mount. Won't lose any -Z- room, and no hassle about making the back plate true
 
No brake on the machine unfortunatley.

To resize the back plate, would I just mount it to the spindle using the camlocks and cut it as needed, or would I need to get a faceplate to mount it to?
 
Normally, a D1-4 backplate (which is what I assume you have but it could be a D1-3 -so better check) the taper part that mates with the spindle will be very tight (undersized) and may need the angled bore widened-up. This is often the case. Once that is addressed, yes, you mount the plate and surface the chuck-mating side.

It's also recommended that you make a static balance checker and mark the heavy side of the plate then, put a bar in the jaws of the chuck alone and find it's heavy side. When you go to drill the holes through the plate, you mount the heavy sides opposite of each other and that way, the overall unit will likely spin with a more neutral balance. Once they are mounted together, you check the overall balance and make divots in the backplate to make any further corrections.

Here is a thread that covers the entire procedure. If you are new to using a lathe, this may seem a little daunting...

Here is a thread that describes the process: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...Spindle-amp-Chuck-Measurement-and-Setup/page2



Ray

Greggski said:
No brake on the machine unfortunatley.

To resize the back plate, would I just mount it to the spindle using the camlocks and cut it as needed, or would I need to get a faceplate to mount it to?
Click to expand...
 
I'm going to post the dissenting opinion. I love 3 jaw as hex stock works in it, I can also slit a nut and use it to hold threaded rod and bolts to turn them. I did have to "tune" it a little but is now running "close enough" for me
 
I have confirmed its a D1-4 backplate. Your right, it does seem a bit daunting. I understand the concept, its just the jargon that is a bit hard to follow being a beginner. I think if i could see it done, it would make it much more clear. It will search for some videos and get it figured out. I enjoy the learning curve with aquiring a new skill set and look forward to getting started.

Thanks again for the help, i will update once i get this up and running...




Ray C said:
Normally, a D1-4 backplate (which is what I assume you have but it could be a D1-3 -so better check) the taper part that mates with the spindle will be very tight (undersized) and may need the angled bore widened-up. This is often the case. Once that is addressed, yes, you mount the plate and surface the chuck-mating side.

It's also recommended that you make a static balance checker and mark the heavy side of the plate then, put a bar in the jaws of the chuck alone and find it's heavy side. When you go to drill the holes through the plate, you mount the heavy sides opposite of each other and that way, the overall unit will likely spin with a more neutral balance. Once they are mounted together, you check the overall balance and make divots in the backplate to make any further corrections.

Here is a thread that covers the entire procedure. If you are new to using a lathe, this may seem a little daunting...

Here is a thread that describes the process: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/show...Spindle-amp-Chuck-Measurement-and-Setup/page2



Ray
Click to expand...
 
If you do indeed get a backplate that is under-size on the spindle side, you could send it to me and I'll fit it to my spindle which is textbook on-spec. Of course, shipping fees would be a little annoying. Best bet is to see if it fits and try to find someone locally who can take it to the right size. If the plate face does not fully meet the spindle face when you tighten the lugs, this means the tapered hole in the plate is undersized and you'll stand no chance of getting a chuck to mount repeatably.


Ray


Greggski said:
I have confirmed its a D1-4 backplate. Your right, it does seem a bit daunting. I understand the concept, its just the jargon that is a bit hard to follow being a beginner. I think if i could see it done, it would make it much more clear. It will search for some videos and get it figured out. I enjoy the learning curve with aquiring a new skill set and look forward to getting started.

Thanks again for the help, i will update once i get this up and running...
Click to expand...
 
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