2017 POTD Thread Archive

ndnchf said:
View attachment 226819 I picked up this nice Baldor 1/2 hp grinder last week at a local auction. It was made in 1973 and I don't believe the grinding wheels were ever changed. They started out at 7", but are now down to 4.75". So I just ordered a new set this morning.

Regarding my POTD. The grinder did not have water pot, so I made one from 3" square tubing. I cut it off at an angle, then cut a 3" square plate and welded it to the bottom. Made a stand off mount for it for easy access. The pot is easily removable for refilling or cleaning. A simple project that makes using the grinder much more pleasurable.
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Nice Grinder.
Now you just need to make some bigger custom Tool rests.
 
A 6" vise is overkill for a RF45 style mill. A 4" is more appropiate for that size mill & IMO 5" max. I have a 5" GMT vise on my PM45 & it's slightly too big. Not enough Y axis travel to make use of the 5" full capacity. Better to save your money rather than getting something too big & most importantly the weight. I take my vise of the table quite often, a 6" is still light enough for me to be carried by hand but I'm glad I have a 5". I also have a 4" vise as well. I prefer the 5" though.

But those GMT 6" Premium vises are pretty nice. I'd love to have one but don't need one on my current mill. But if you plan on upgrading to a full size knee mill in the future than the 6" will be perfect.


Here's what the 5" looks like on my mill.
Img_1921.jpg


I couldn't even complete this cut without my bellows & DRO scale getting in the way. Not enough Y travel & the 5" vise is not even maxed out.
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Here's what a 6" vise looks like on another PM45 (gt40's)
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Pretty slick conversion. I've done quite a few on cars, and one on my 69 Triumph, and your right, you won't miss the points. Mike
 
johnnyc14 said:
I've been thinking about electronic ignition for my Yamaha XS650 project bike........... it was pretty painless to get the distributor from the Celica. The old girl will live on in my XS.
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@johnnyc14, John, thanks for the write up and all the great photos, I know what a PITA it can be stop and grab all of those. Also, I greatly respect the idea of re-use of old parts. It is much appreciated.
-brino
 
Made a vise stop for the mill drill from a 3" wide piece of 3/8" MS bar. It was all rusty before I started. This was my first slot cutting with the mill drill and it wentt better than expected, except for the times I turned the hand wheel the wrong way when I was at the end of the slot and trying to reverse direction.:rolleyes:
upload_2017-2-20_17-26-38.png

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Also made a rack for the new boat motor and the electric one too.
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And a base for the el cheapo light I got for the lathe. It was $2.98 and works great. I still need to drill some holes in it to mount it but will wait until my new lathe arrives. There are some issues with this one and the company is sending me a new one.
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and a batch of T nuts for the Rotary Table. The ones I have for the mill drill are too big.
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Nice projects HB. I'm with ya on the oops wrong direction issues. Might want to call those running changes to the plan....:encourage:
 
A friend is making pens on his wood lathe. His machine only came with a 12" tool rest and he asked if I could make a shorter one.

I started with some rough looking stock:
rusty_start.jpg

The shaft of the original tool rest measure ~0.980" so I turned it down and then made some mill cuts.
The square shoulder is a pocket for mounting the cross bar.

slot.jpg

The rounded shoulder is for tool clearance on the side toward the operator.
clearance.jpg

The parts were TIG welded together, then the top milled flat and a small bevel milled on the cross bar.
tool_rest1.jpg

I am hoping I can barter a nice wood pen in return.......

-brino
 
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brino said:
A friend is making pens on his wood lathe. His machine only came with a 12" tool rest and he asked if I could make a shorter one.

I started with some rough looking stock:
View attachment 226901

The shaft of the original tool rest measure ~0.980" so I turned it down and then made some mill cuts.
The square shoulder is a pocket for mounting the cross bar.

View attachment 226904

The rounded shoulder is for tool clearance on the side toward the operator.
View attachment 226905

The parts were TIG welded together, then the top milled flat and a small bevel milled on the cross bar.
View attachment 226906

I am hoping I can barter a nice wood pen in return.......

-brino
Click to expand...
I'm a wood worker and wood Turner as well. I make tool rest all the time, round bar, flat bar, curved, you name it. Nice little rest you made. Make sure you round over all the edges so you don't catch the wood or your hand, or the chisel.
 
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